Any Chinese city worth its rice has an Old Town. Luòyáng’s is east of the rebuilt Lìjǐng Gate, where the narrow Xi Dajie yields up a plethora of shops, grey-brick houses and the occasional creaking monument, including the old Drum Tower (鼓楼; Gǔ Lóu) rising up on Dong Dajie (东大街) and, just south, the lovely brick Wénfēng Pagoda (文峰塔; Wénfēng Tǎ), originally built in the Song dynasty.