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Dust devils zoom wantonly through sun-scorched Norte Grande with its undulating curves of rock and stone, Andean lagoons, snowcapped volcanoes, salt flats and sensuously perforated coastline. Famous as much for its hilltop observatories as its massive copper mines, those vast, uninhabited spaces touch the soul and the imagination. Norte Grande's star attraction is the tiny adobe village of San Pedro de Atacama, just a day trip away from the world's highest geyser field and some astounding desert formations.
But there's more to Norte Grande than San Pedro. Go for lung-bursting, jaw-dropping adventure near the mountain village of Putre in the high-altitude reserve of Parque Nacional Lauca or further afield to Monumento Natural Salar de Surire. Spend a week sunning yourself on the beaches outlying Iquique and Arica, or make your own adventure in the lost ghost towns and hard-sprung mining centers that make this region unique.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Norte Grande.
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Watching the sun set from the exquisite Valley of the Moon is an unforgettable experience. From atop a giant sand dune, you can drink in spectacular views as the sun slips below the horizon and a beautiful transformation occurs: the distant ring of volcanoes, rippling Cordillera de la Sal and surreal lunar landscapes of the valley are suddenly suffused with intense purples, pinks and golds.
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The influence and wealth of the nitrate boom whisper through the deserted ghost town of Humberstone. Established in 1872 as La Palma, this mining town once fizzed with an energy, culture and ingenuity that peaked in the 1940s.
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El Tatio is ringed by volcanoes and fed by over 80 gurgling geysers and a hundred gassy fumaroles. Contrary to popular opinion it is not the world's largest geyser field, but the third largest. The best time to see the geysers is 6am, so make sure you wipe the sleep from your eyes if you want to experience the awesome spectacle.
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In the world of high-powered telescopes, where rival institutes jostle to claim the 'biggest,' 'most powerful' or 'most technologically advanced' specimens, Paranal is right up there with the big boys. This groundbreaking observatory has a Very Large Telescope (VLT) consisting of an array of four 8.2m telescopes – for a time at least, the most powerful optical array in the world.
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The big draw of San Pedro is this magnificent reserve that covers some 74,000 hectares. It's divided into seven geographically distinct sectors south, east and west of San Pedro de Atacama, and encloses many of the area's top attractions.
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This museum, 12km east of Arica, is home to some of the world's oldest-known mummies. There are superb local archaeological and cultural-heritage displays and a handy audio guide in English. Colectivos (CH$1200) at the corner of Chacabuco and Patricio Lynch provide transportation.
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Around 3.5km west of San Pedro, this striking valley should figure high on any itinerary to the region, with jagged rocks, a towering sand dune and dramatic viewpoints of the distant cordillera. The name Valle de la Muerte (Death Valley) is actually a linguistic distortion of Valle de Marte (Mars Valley), which more accurately represents its red rock features and otherworldly beauty.
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What at first glance looks like the ruins from some ancient indigenous settlement in fact dates only from the turn of the 20th century. Created by Bolivian Hunachaca Company (one of the richest silver-mining operations of the late 1800s), the site was used as a foundry and refinery for raw material shipped in from the Pulacayo mine in Bolivia, and once employed more than 1000 workers. You can take photos of the ruins, but are not allowed to enter.
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While not in Antofagasta proper, but rather 22km north of the city, this enormous offshore arch – the centerpiece of a 31-hectare protected zone – is the most spectacular of the area's sights. Topped by marine sediments and supported by a sturdy volcanic base, the stack has been eroded into a natural arch by the stormy Pacific. It's situated on a short westbound lateral off the highway; there's a small Conaf-managed museum and cliff-top views over surrounding beaches.
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