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La Palma

La Palma, the greenest of the Canarian islands, offers the chance to experience real, unspoiled nature – from the verdant forests of the north, where lush vegetation drips from the rainforest canopy; to the desertscapes of the south, where volcanic craters and twisted rock formations define the views; to the serene pine forests of the Parque Nacional de la Caldera de Taburiente. No wonder the entire island has been declared a Unesco biosphere reserve.

The absence of golden beaches has diverted many travellers’ attention and tourism (aside from walkers and cruise liners) has yet to make a major mark on the island. The capital is also an architectural gem, its 16th-century centre lined with beautiful balconied mansions and houses.

In fact it is hard to find an unattractive corner on La Isla Bonita (the Pretty Island) and, provided unchecked development stays at bay, it is likely to remain that way.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout La Palma.

  • See

    Santuario de la Virgen de las Nieves

    For splendid views down the valley to Santa Cruz, put aside time to tackle the 4km uphill hike north of town to La Palma’s main object of pilgrimage, the 17th-century Santuario de la Virgen de las Nieves with its fabulously ornate interior. The wooden Mudéjar-carved ceiling, sculptures and sparkling crystal chandeliers are the precursor to the 82cm-tall Virgin Mary herself, surrounded by a glittering altar. The 14th-century sculpture is the oldest religious statue in the Canary Islands and the object of deep veneration. The sculpture was believed to have been brought by merchants before the arrival of the Spaniards; every five years she is carried down to Santa Cruz in a grand procession. The church sits in a peaceful spot in the hills surrounded by trees and greenery, all in typical Canarian colonial style with balconies and simple facades. The walk up is quite steep going, so take some water. By car, follow signs from Avenida Marítima where it crosses the barranco, then turn right on the Carretera de las Nieves (LP-101) and continue winding up the hillside until you see signs for the sanctuary; the curve-filled 5km trip takes nearly 15 minutes. Bus 10 (€2, approximately 20 minutes) comes up hourly from the town centre from 6.45am until 8.45pm, less frequently on weekends. There’s a bar-restaurant in the square right by the church. If you take the steep path to the right (as you face it) of the souvenir shop opposite the church, it takes you to a higher position to photograph the mountains and also to find a track that leads to excellent views over the city below. Other stunning views across the barranco (river gorge) valley to Santa Cruz await down the road away from the church to just before the first bend.

  • See

    Pico Bejenado

    At 1854m, clambering up to this peak offers glorious views over the pines, valleys and ridges of the Caldera de Taburiente. The peak marks the conclusion of the hike here from Pista de Valencia below along a clearly marked path through the pines. Note the visitor's book in the metal box chained to one of the rocks – leave your reflections on the views and read about the experiences of other hikers.

  • See

    Observatorio del Roque de Los Muchachos

    The huge telescopes on the peak of Roque de los Muchachos belong to the island’s astronomical observatory, one of the world’s best places to study the night sky and in 2012 deemed the world's first Unesco-certified Starlight Reserve. The mammoth Grantecan (Gran Telescopio Canarias; GTC) at the Observatorio del Roque de los Muchachos boasts one of the world’s largest telescopes and the largest single-aperture optical telescope on the planet. The observatory can be visited by booking a tour. Guides who are authorised to conduct visits to the observatory can be found through Cielos-La Palma (www.cielos-lapalma.es). The observatory allows scientists to study the formation and evolution of the galaxies throughout the history of the universe as well as investigate the stars and observe the rings of spatial material that give birth to new planets. Far from urban centres and city lights, La Palma is an ideal place to stargaze. More than 75% of the nights here on El Roque are clear, a statistic that’s hard to beat. La Palma’s observatory is linked with the Observatorio del Teide on Tenerife, and together they form the Instituto de Astrofisica de Canarias (IAC).

  • See

    Museo Casa Roja

    This handsome ochre-red mansion (built in 1911), located down one of the steep streets from the main road, has downstairs exhibits on Corpus Christi – a festival Villa de Mazo celebrates with particular gusto: streets are decorated with elegant ‘carpets’ made of flower petals, seeds and soil. Upstairs are displays of linen and embroidery; don't miss the fabulous tiled bathroom with the painted toilet. The house also has an impressive imperial staircase, further ornate tiled floors and a lovely, small landscaped front garden with another garden behind.

  • See

    Iglesia del Salvador

    The interior of this magnificent church boasts a glittering baroque pulpit dating back to 1750 and a stunningly intricate and coloured 16th-century wooden ceiling considered to be one of the best Mudéjar (Islamic-style architecture) works in all the Canaries. There are also several fine sculptures, dazzling stained-glass windows and a huge portrait of St Christopher and another portraying St Michael. The church overlooks and dominates Plaza de España.

  • See

    Museo de la Seda

    Learn the secrets of the caterpillars that spin dresses fit for a marriage. The silk produced here is made according to traditions that have barely changed since the industry arrived on the island in the 16th century. There is an upstairs museum with some magnificent silk garments on display from as far afield as China and India, plus a short film about silk production. End your visit at the downstairs workshop where you can see the weaving in action.

  • See

    Museo Insular

    This excellent museum is housed in a former 16th-century monastery with diverse exhibits ranging from Guanche skulls to cupboards of sad stuffed birds, pickled reptiles and an impressive shell and coral collection. There are also galleries dedicated to 20th-century Spanish paintings, as well as contemporary art.

  • See

    Lava Tubes

    On the hike up to Pico Bejenado, and at other sights in the park, you will see lava tubes in the rock by the side of the path. Originally, these were conduits in the rock through which lava would pass, formed when slow-moving lava cooled enough for a tube to form. The lava tubes visible at this spot appear quite small, but one system of tubes on Teide, Tenerife, is over 18km in length. Note there's a QR code on a post here that your smartphone can read to take you to an online audioguide (if you can get a signal) for more explanations about the tubes.

  • See

    Plaza España

    Relaxing and good-looking Plaza España is the heart of the historic town. Majestic, ancient and sizeable Indian laurel trees provide a much-welcome leafy canopy on even the sunniest days, making this the perfect spot to picnic, people-watch or relax in a cafe. The Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de los Remedios dominates the northern flank of the square. Have a coffee in one of the cafes bordering the square and afterwards wander the surrounding streets and plazas, which preserve considerable traditional character.