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La Palma

La Palma, the greenest of the Canarian islands, offers the chance to experience real, unspoiled nature – from the verdant forests of the north, where lush vegetation drips from the rainforest canopy; to the desertscapes of the south, where volcanic craters and twisted rock formations define the views; to the serene pine forests of the Parque Nacional de la Caldera de Taburiente. No wonder the entire island has been declared a Unesco biosphere reserve.

The absence of golden beaches has diverted many travellers’ attention and tourism (aside from walkers and cruise liners) has yet to make a major mark on the island. The capital is also an architectural gem, its 16th-century centre lined with beautiful balconied mansions and houses.

In fact it is hard to find an unattractive corner on La Isla Bonita (the Pretty Island) and, provided unchecked development stays at bay, it is likely to remain that way.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout La Palma.

Church
Santuario de la Virgen de las Nieves
For splendid views down the valley to Santa Cruz, put aside time to tackle the 4km uphill hike north of town to La Palma’s main object of pilgrimage, the 17th-century Santuario de la Virgen de las Nieves with its fabulously ornate interior. The wooden Mudéjar-carved ceiling, sculptures and sparkling crystal chandeliers are the precursor to the 82cm-tall Virgin Mary herself, surrounded by a glittering altar. The 14th-century sculpture is the oldest religious statue in the Canary Islands and the object of deep veneration.
National Park
Parque Nacional de la Caldera de Taburiente
Declared a national park in 1954, this beautiful park is at the heart of La Palma, both geographically and symbolically. Extending across 46.9 sq km, the park encompasses thick Canary pine forests, a wealth of freshwater springs and streams, waterfalls, impressive rock formations and many kilometres of hiking trails. Although you can reach a few miradors by car, you’ll need to explore on foot to really experience the park at its best.
Visitor Centre
Volcán San Antonio Visitor Centre & Volcán San Antonio
The visitor centre is your first stop if you want to explore the volcanoes. Displays are well-captioned and informative, but the layout is not very imaginative and rather dated. It's far more interesting to head out and walk along a section of the rim of Volcán San Antonio, a yawning chasm of this great black cone, which last blew in 1949 and has now been repopulated by hardy Canarian pines. The crater is also a superb stargazing viewpoint.
Mountain
Pico Bejenado
At 1854m, clambering up to this peak offers glorious views over the pines, valleys and ridges of the Caldera de Taburiente. The peak marks the conclusion of the hike here from Pista de Valencia below along a clearly marked path through the pines. Note the visitor's book in the metal box chained to one of the rocks – leave your reflections on the views and read about the experiences of other hikers.
Village
Santo Domingo
Wind your way down the lovely, sinuous LP-112 to the settlement of Santo Domingo and then turn left in the village and follow the signs to the Puerto de Santo Domingo. At the end of the road is a small car park and mirador with sublime views to the Roque de Santo Domingo and the Roque de las Tabaidas. In the village itself, you can find restaurants and cafeterias not far from the Iglesia Nuestra Señora de La Luz.
Observatory
Observatorio del Roque de Los Muchachos
The huge telescopes on the peak of Roque de los Muchachos belong to the island’s astronomical observatory, one of the world’s best places to study the night sky and in 2012 deemed the world's first Unesco-certified Starlight Reserve. The mammoth Grantecan (Gran Telescopio Canarias; GTC) at the Observatorio del Roque de los Muchachos boasts one of the world’s largest telescopes and the largest single-aperture optical telescope on the planet. The observatory can be visited by booking a tour.
Archaeological Site
Parque Ecológico de Belmaco
The first ancient petroglyphs found on the archipelago were discovered at this site in 1752. A 300m trail that winds around various cave dwellings (complete with animal sound effects!) once inhabited by Benahoare tribespeople is the heart of this archaeological park; the highlight is the squiggling etchings, which date back to AD 150. There’s also a two-room museum with reproductions and information regarding the history of the discovery.
Saltwater Pool
Charco Azul
Creatively designed Charco Azul is a blending of moulded concrete with natural volcanic rocks. The effect is stunning, especially when the waves are whipping up: a series of natural-looking saltwater pools with sunbathing platforms and a walkway between them. Bus 100 (€2.40) regularly runs from Santa Cruz de la Palma to Los Sauces where you can change to bus 104 from Los Sauces to Charco Azul (€1.50, 10 minutes, three daily).
Volcano
Volcán Teneguía
Volcán Teneguía's 1971 eruption was the most recent in the archipelago. A signposted trail from Volcán San Antonio, near the visitor centre, leads you here on a downhill hike over scrunchy volcanic gravel (wear sturdy shoes). The easy to moderate walk to the volcano and back takes about two hours. If that’s not far enough, you can continue onwards for a further hour (one way) down to the coast at the Faro (Lighthouse) de Fuencaliente near the southern tip of La Palma.