La Palma

A string of rocky peaks soaring nearly 2500m high surrounds the caldera, and the trail running along these rock walls affords a thrilling vantage point from which to observe the park and the rest of the island. A narrow dirt trail, part of the long-distance GR131, skims the entire northern border of the park, and shorter trails branch off it and venture down deeper into the park.

One of the most spectacular sections runs between the Roque de los Muchachos and the Pico de la Nieve, which is off the LP-4, a winding highway that branches off the LP-1 highway 3km north of Santa Cruz and snakes its way across the island, skirting the rim of the park and its northern peaks. Avoid backtracking by taking two cars and leaving one at the pico (the parking area is a 20-minute walk from the trail itself). Then drive (or get a ride) up to the Roque de los Muchachos, the highest point on the island at 2426m and the location of the Observatorio Roque de Los Muchachos. The walk back down to the Pico de la Nieve should take four to five hours (approximately 9km).

Numerous miradors dot the LP-4 highway around the Roque de los Muchachos; even if you don’t hike the rim, the views from up here are worth seeking out. At night, this area offers unbeatable stargazing.

One of the prettiest towns in the Canary Islands, the historic (and bureaucratic) capital of the island, Santa Cruz de la Palma is a compact city strung out along the shore and flanked by beautiful, fertile green hills. The city centre is breathtakingly picturesque, while the beach and kilometre-long promenade have considerably boosted the city's summer-in-the-sun appeal. Wandering the historic streets around and uphill above Plaza España, either during the day or at night (when they are even more sublime), is a joy. With its location midway down the east coast, bus connections across La Palma and proximity to the airport, the city makes for a very good-looking base for getting pretty much everywhere.

The Parque Nacional de la Caldera de Taburiente is glorious hiking territory and home to the best views La Isla Bonita ('the pretty island') can muster. It's an unmissable destination even for those with little time on their hands.

The heart of the astonishing park is the Caldera de Taburiente itself (literally, the Taburiente ‘Stewpot’ or ‘Cauldron’). A massive depression 8km wide and surrounded by soaring rock walls, it was first given the name in 1825 by German geologist Leopold von Buch, who took it to be a massive volcanic crater. The word ‘caldera’ stuck, and was used as a standard term for such volcanic craters the world over. This caldera, however, is no crater, although volcanic activity was key in its creation. Scientists now agree that this was a majestically tall volcanic mountain, and that it collapsed on itself. Through the millennia, erosion excavated this tall-walled amphitheatre.

The visitor centre is your first stop if you want to explore the volcanoes. Displays are well-captioned and informative, but the layout is not very imaginative and rather dated. It's far more interesting to head out and walk along a section of the rim of Volcán San Antonio, a yawning chasm of this great black cone, which last blew in 1949 and has now been repopulated by hardy Canarian pines. The crater is also a superb stargazing viewpoint.

A biosphere reserve since 1983, the nearly 140 sq km of Los Tiles are covered with a beautiful, lush rainforest that’s bursting with life. This moist, cool, natural wonderland is one of the most magical spots on the island, a must-explore place where you can wander among the diverse flora and fauna and the largest laurisilva (laurel) forest on the island. The nearest town is Los Sauces, around 4km to the northeast of the visitor centre.

Wind your way down the lovely, sinuous LP-112 to the settlement of Santo Domingo and then turn left in the village and follow the signs to the Puerto de Santo Domingo. At the end of the road is a small car park and mirador with sublime views to the Roque de Santo Domingo and the Roque de las Tabaidas. In the village itself, you can find restaurants and cafeterias not far from the Iglesia Nuestra Señora de La Luz.

San Andrés is like something from a storybook, with hilly, cobblestone streets that steeply lead down past low, whitewashed houses to a small cove. A delightful place by the sea, the sleepy village is ideal for a slow wander and exploration of its idyllic, picturesque shades. The short hike along the coast to the pools at Charco Azul makes for a very pleasant and breezy diversion.

The nearby Los Tiles biosphere reserve is one of the top sights of the island and is a short journey from San Andrés.

The black-sand beach at Puerto Naos is the longest on the island, measuring around 1km. Backed by towering palm trees, the excellent facilities here include showers, changing rooms and toilets, plus sunbeds and umbrellas for hire. A bustling promenade of bars, restaurants and shops backs the sweep of sand and includes several places to stay. At the northern end is the smaller black-sand cove of Playa Chica.