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Broome & The Kimberley
Australia's last frontier is a wild land of remote, spectacular scenery spread over huge distances, with a severe climate, a sparse population and minimal infrastructure. Larger than 75% of the world's countries, the Kimberley is hemmed by impenetrable coastline and unforgiving deserts. In between lie vast boab-studded spinifex plains, palm-fringed gorges, desolate mountains and magnificent waterfalls. Travelling here is an adventure and each dry season a steady flow of explorers search for the real outback along the legendary Gibb River Road.
Aboriginal culture runs deep across the region, from the Dampier Peninsula, where neat communities welcome travellers to Country, to distant Mitchell Plateau, where ancient Wandjina and Gwion Gwion stand vigil over sacred waterholes.
Swashbuckling Broome (home to iconic Cable Beach, camel-tinged sunsets and amber-hued watering holes) and practical Kununurra (with its irrigation miracle) bookend the region. Both are great places to unwind, find a job and meet other travellers.
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Top attractions
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Broome & The Kimberley.
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Purnululu National Park
Looking like a packet of half-melted Jaffas, World Heritage Purnululu is home to the incredible ochre and black striped 'beehive' domes of the Bungle Bungle Range. The distinctive rounded rock towers are made of sandstone and conglomerates moulded by rainfall over millions of years. Their stripes are the result of oxidised iron compounds and algae. To the local Kidja people, purnululu means sandstone, with Bungle Bungle possibly a corruption of 'bundle bundle', a common grass. Over 3000 sq km of ancient country contains a wide array of wildlife, including over 130 bird species. Rangers are based here from April to November and the park is closed outside this time. You'll need a high-clearance 4WD for the 52km twisting, rough road from the highway to the visitor centre near Three Ways junction; allow 2½ hours. There are five deep creek crossings and the turn-off is 53km south of Warmun. Kurrajong and Walardi camps have fresh water and toilets. Book campsites online via www.parkstay.dpaw.wa.gov.au.
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Cable Beach
WA's most famous landmark offers turquoise waters and beautiful white sand curving away to the sunset. Clothing is optional north of the rocks, while south, walking trails lead through the red dunes of Minyirr Park, a spiritual place for the Yawuru people. Cable Beach is synonymous with camels and an evening ride along the sand is a highlight for many visitors. Locals in their 4WDs swarm north of the rocks for sunset drinks. Stingers are common in the Wet. Cable Beach takes its name from the undersea telegraph cable from Java that came ashore there in 1899. It was used for international communications until 1914. Little evidence remains of it today, except for Broome Courthouse, which is the old Cable Station.
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Mornington Wilderness Camp
Part of the Australian Wildlife Conservancy, the superb Mornington Wilderness Camp is as remote as it gets, lying on the Fitzroy River, an incredibly scenic 95km drive across the savannah from the Gibb's 247km mark. Nearly 400,000 hectares are devoted to conserving the Kimberley's endangered fauna and there's excellent canoeing, swimming, birdwatching and bushwalking. Choose from shady campsites with gas BBQs or spacious raised tents (including full board) with verandahs and bathrooms. The bar and restaurant offer full dinner ($60), BBQ packs ($25) and the best cheese platter ($25) this side of Margaret River. Vegetarians are well-catered for. Sir John Gorge in the late afternoon sun is sublime. Call ahead using the radio provided at the Gibb turn-off.
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Mitchell River National Park
Leave early if walking to Punamii-unpuu (Mitchell Falls; 8.6km return). The easy trail meanders through spinifex, woodlands and gorge country, dotted with Wandjina and Gwion Gwion rock-art sites, secluded waterholes, lizards, wallabies and brolga. Most people will complete the walk in three hours, but factor in several swims. The waterhole below Little Mertens Falls is especially inviting, while rock art can be found under the cliffs. Individual Uunguu Visitor Passes must be purchased online before arrival. The falls are stunning, whether trickling in the Dry, or raging in the Wet (when only visible from the air). You can swim in the long pool above the falls, but swimming in the lower pools is strictly forbidden because of their cultural importance to the Wunambal people.
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Tunnel Creek
Sick of the sun? Then cool down underground at Tunnel Creek, which cuts through a spur of the Napier Range for almost 1km. It was famously the hideout of Jandamarra (a Bunuba man who waged an armed guerrilla war against the police and white settlers for three years before he was killed). In the Dry, the full length is walkable by wading partly through knee-deep water; watch out for bats and bring good footwear and a strong torch. There's rock art in the area around the far entrance. Camping not permitted.
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Wongalala Falls
Only opened to non-Aboriginal tourists in 2018, these stunning hour-glass falls empty into a large, perfectly circular plunge pool, about 20km from Kalumburu. A Kalumburu Access Permit is needed to visit.
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Sir John Gorge
Sublime gorge on the Fitzroy River at Mornington where sunsets are spectacular due to the fiery red of the sandstone rocks. Canoes are available for hire from the camp office.
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Rowley Shoals Marine Park
These three coral atolls lie approximately 300km from Broome in the Indian Ocean, on the edge of Australia's continental shelf, and have a reputation for some of the best diving in the country. Protected by a marine park, there's over 600 species of fish and 200-plus different varieties of coral. At a good 12-hour cruise from land, the shoals only see a minute number of visitors each year. Several Broome operators offer multi-night cruises for experienced divers. The shoals also attract large numbers of migratory sea birds.
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Broome Bird Observatory
The RAMSAR-recognised tidal mudflats of Roebuck Bay are a vital staging post for thousands of migratory birds, coming from as far away as Siberia. In a peaceful coastal setting 25km from Broome, the 'Bird Obbie' offers quiet walking trails, secluded bush campsites and a choice of low-key rooms. There are a number of tours ($70, 2½ hours) and courses ($1400, five days) available as well as volunteering opportunities. Hard-core twitchers shouldn't miss the daily 6pm bird count.
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