Broome & The Kimberley

WA's most famous landmark offers turquoise waters and beautiful white sand curving away to the sunset. Clothing is optional north of the rocks, while south, walking trails lead through the red dunes of Minyirr Park, a spiritual place for the Yawuru people. Cable Beach is synonymous with camels and an evening ride along the sand is a highlight for many visitors. Locals in their 4WDs swarm north of the rocks for sunset drinks. Stingers are common in the Wet.

Stretching north from Broome, the red pindan of the Dampier Peninsula ends abruptly above deserted beaches, secluded mangrove bays and cliffs burnished crimson by the setting sun. This remote and stunning Country is home to thriving Aboriginal settlements of the Ngumbarl, Jabirr Jabirr, Nyul Nyul, Nimanburu, Bardi Jawi and Goolarabooloo peoples. Access is via the rough, 215km-long Cape Leveque Rd.

The Manari Road turn-off, home to Broome's northern beaches and bush campsites, is reached after 15km.

Always book ahead when visiting Aboriginal communities, ideally directly with the community hosts, though the Broome Visitor Centre may help; check if permits and/or payments are required. Look for the informative booklet Ardi–Dampier Peninsula Travellers Guide ($5). You need to be self-sufficient, though limited supplies are available.

Cutting a brown swath through the scorched heart of the Kimberley, the legendary Gibb River Road ('the Gibb' or GRR) provides one of Australia's wildest outback experiences. Stretching some 660km between Derby and Kununurra, the largely unpaved road is an endless sea of red dirt, big open skies and dramatic terrain. Rough, sometimes deeply corrugated side roads lead to remote gorges, shady pools, distant waterfalls and million-acre cattle stations. Rain can close the road at any time and it's permanently closed during the Wet. This is true wilderness with minimal services, so good planning and self-sufficiency are vital.

A high-clearance 4WD is mandatory, with two spare tyres, tools, emergency water (20L minimum) and several days' food in case of breakdown. Britz in Broome is a reputable hire outfit. Fuel is limited and expensive, mobile phone coverage is minimal and temperatures can be life-threatening.

Various flights around the Bungles, Cambridge Gulf, Kalumburu and majestic Mitchell and King George Falls.

One of the most intriguing features of the Kimberley coastline is the phenomenon known as 'horizontal waterfalls'. Despite the name, the falls are simply tides gushing through narrow coastal gorges in the Buccaneer Archipelago, north of Derby. What creates such a spectacle are the huge tides, often varying up to 11m. The water flow reaches an astonishing 30 knots as it's forced through two narrow gaps 20m and 10m wide – resulting in a 'waterfall' reaching 4m in height.

Many tours leave Derby (and some Broome) each Dry, by air, sea or a combination of both. It's become de rigueur to 'ride' the tide change through the gorges on a high-powered speedboat. There is a risk element involved and accidents have occurred. Scenic flights are the quickest and cheapest option and some seaplanes will land and transfer passengers to a waiting speedboat for the adrenaline hit. If you prefer to be stirred, not shaken, then consider seeing the falls as part of a longer cruise through the archipelago. Book tours at the Derby and Broome visitor centres.

The traditional Dambimangari owners recognise that the Falls are a tourist attraction, but prefer you don't travel through them on the tide change, in respect to the Wongudd (creator snake), said to be the tide itself.

Looking like a packet of half-melted Jaffas, World Heritage Purnululu is home to the incredible ochre and black striped 'beehive' domes of the Bungle Bungle Range.

The distinctive rounded rock towers are made of sandstone and conglomerates moulded by rainfall over millions of years. Their stripes are the result of oxidised iron compounds and algae. To the local Kidja people, purnululu means sandstone, with Bungle Bungle possibly a corruption of 'bundle bundle', a common grass.

Part of the Australian Wildlife Conservancy, the superb Mornington Wilderness Camp is as remote as it gets, lying on the Fitzroy River, an incredibly scenic 95km drive across the savannah from the Gibb's 247km mark. Nearly 400,000 hectares are devoted to conserving the Kimberley's endangered fauna and there's excellent canoeing, swimming, birdwatching and bushwalking.

The Indigenous art of the Kimberley is unique. Encompassing powerful and strongly guarded Wandjina, prolific and enigmatic Gwion Gwion (Bradshaws), bright tropical coastal X-rays, subtle and sombre bush ochres and topographical dots of the western desert, every work sings a story about Country.

To experience it firsthand, visit some of these Aboriginal-owned cooperatives; most are accessible by 2WD.

Mowanjum Art & Culture Centre This incredible gallery, shaped like a Wandjina image, features work by Mowanjum artists. Just 4km along the Gibb River Road from Derby.

Waringarri Aboriginal Arts Centre This excellent Kununurra gallery-studio hosts local artists working with ochres in a unique abstract style. It also represents artists from Kalumburu.

Warmun Arts Between Kununurra and Halls Creek, Warmun artists create beautiful works using ochres to explore Gija identity.

Laarri Gallery This tiny not-for-profit gallery located in the back of the Yiyili community school depicts local history through interesting contemporary-style art. It's 120km west of Halls Creek and 5km from the Great Northern Hwy. Phone ahead.

Mangkaja Arts Respected Fitzroy Crossing gallery where desert and river tribes interact, producing unique acrylics, prints and baskets.

Yarliyil Gallery Great Halls Creek gallery showcasing talented local artists as well as some of the Kundat Djaru (Ringer Soak) mob.

Warlayirti Artists Centre This Balgo centre, 255km down the Tanami Rd, is a conduit for artists around the area and features bright acrylic dot-style works as well as lithographs and glass works. Phone first, before leaving the highway.

Bidyadanga Community Art Centre South of Broome, this intriguing centre brings together both desert and coastal influences in WA's largest remote community.

Nagula Jarndu Women's Resource Centre Don't miss the incredible printed fabrics at this Broome women's centre.

Marnin Studio Famous for their carved boab-nuts, the women at this Fitzroy Crossing studio also hand-print paper and silk scarves.

For more information, look up www.desertriversea.com.au and download the Kimberley Aboriginal Art Trail map, or find it in a visitor centre.

If time's short, wander through the Short St Gallery Bungalow in Hopton St Broome for a sample of the different Kimberley styles.

Sick of the sun? Then cool down underground at Tunnel Creek, which cuts through a spur of the Napier Range for almost 1km. It was famously the hideout of Jandamarra (a Bunuba man who waged an armed guerrilla war against the police and white settlers for three years before he was killed). In the Dry, the full length is walkable by wading partly through knee-deep water; watch out for bats and bring good footwear and a strong torch.

This incredible 82km walk follows a section of ancient songline north along the coast from Gantheaume Point (Minyirr) to Coulomb Point (Minarriny). The Goolarabooloo organise several guided nine-day walking trips each dry season, staying at traditional campsites. There is a strong emphasis on sharing Aboriginal culture with activities like spear-making, bush-tucker hunting, fishing, mud-crabbing and native jewellery making.