An ultimate fall weekend in Providence, Rhode Island

I believe that Providence is the most West Coast city on the East Coast, but with a salty New England twist. That’s not to breeze over the city’s history (the racketeering mayor, the relocation of rivers, a decades-long revitalization) or its distinct personality rooted in working-class grit. But for me – as someone who recently moved east after 10 years in Portland, Oregon – Providence feels like home. It’s creative, inclusive, community-oriented and way more laid back than New York or Boston. The food scene brings all that together, and fall is the perfect time to enjoy long, brisk walks to all the most exciting restaurants in town. 

Providence restaurants love to showcase local ingredients, especially seafood. Chefs and restaurateurs have close relationships with area farms and fishermen, and those connections shine through their menus, which are often seasonal and changing.

Now that I live in Connecticut, I visit Providence whenever possible. Every time, I wish I had one more day to wander the pretty, brick-bathed downtown; one more hour to spend reading at the Athenæum; or just one more meal. It’s not a big city, especially compared with New York and Boston, but if you’re visiting for the first time, it’ll make a big impression. 

When to arrive: Embrace the weekend energy in a city that never feels uncomfortably crowded. A Friday afternoon arrival will let you jump right into the fun. 

How to get from the airport: The Rhode Island T.F. Green International Airport is just 10 miles from downtown Providence. Even with traffic, it’s a quick ride with Uber or Lyft. There’s also the RIPTA bus, line 66, which costs $2 and takes about 30 minutes to reach downtown.

Getting around: Providence is a very walkable city, but prepare for some steep hills on the East Side. RIPTA bus routes connect all the city neighborhoods. Renting a car isn’t necessary unless you’re planning to venture to other parts of the state. If you do bring a car, the Hope neighborhood in East Providence is great for vacation rentals with driveways. 

Where to stay: For downtown convenience in an iconic building, stay at the Graduate Providence. The bold, elegant lobby sets the tone for a colorful weekend. The in-house Poindexter Coffee is a great coffee shop, especially if you’re someone who needs some laptop time while traveling. The Beatrice, another convenient location, is more upscale but worth the splurge if you can. Bellini’s, a luxurious restaurant with cozy Italian dishes, sits on the ground floor. If you don’t stay here, you should still swing by for their house “Bellini” made with fresh peach puree. Aloft Providence is dog-friendly with funky decor and a cool rooftop bar. 

What to pack: Fall weather can be all over the place. Bring layers and comfy shoes. Providence is a pretty casual city where style is eclectic and personal, so wear whatever makes you feel good.

Friday

How to spend the day

If you have a full day, The Downcity Providence Food Tour will make you feel like an expert in local cuisine. The guides have so much knowledge to share about food, architecture and local history as you make your way to six spots where you can graze on some of the best bites in town. The tour starts at noon. A warning: you won’t be hungry for dinner after all the food on this tour. 

Next, head to the water. The Providence River is a distinct landmark that bifurcates the city. To get a feel for the lay of the land, hop on a gondola. (A reservation with La Gondola is a good idea.) This BYOB experience includes serenades by your traditional Venetian-style gondolier as you drift through downtown. You’ll see the dozens of braziers (big metal bowls that can hold fuel for fire), which are filled with dancing flames on WaterFire nights, a downtown installation and event that mostly takes place in the summer. There are scattered opportunities to catch WaterFire in the fall, so check the schedule.

Dinner

If you skipped the food tour, head to The Malted Barley, a locally loved brewpub with made-to-order pretzels and a huge selection of craft beer. Their delicious burgers are served on pretzel buns, and their salads are great, too. Another enticing option is PVD Noodle Bar, just around the corner. (Both are typically featured on the tour.) Their spicy scallion noodles will feed your soul with locally grown mushrooms, and their seasonal specials always look excellent.

Saturday

Morning 

Get started with a hearty breakfast at Amy’s on the East Side. This sweet cafe has limited seating for the crowd that comes for breakfast sandwiches on bolos, a slightly sweet round bread. Don’t miss their specialty, “The Hangover,” with egg, bacon, sauteed onions, guacamole and hot sauce. 

How to spend the day

After breakfast, stroll between shops on the lively Wickenden Street in the Fox Point neighborhood. Shop Bloom is a sunny collective of dozens of local businesses and many quirky temptations to bring home, from jewelry to ceramics to stickers. Across the street, dig through three levels of antiques, clothing and tchotchkes at Nostalgia. Then dip into the queer-owned gallery and cafe Small Format to refuel on caffeine, and be sure to check out their event line-up; you might want to come back for a drag queen reading hour or live music. With coffee in hand, head to India Point Park where you’ll enjoy a nice autumnal breeze off the Seekonk River. 

Cut across the East side to Plant City on the Providence River. The collective of restaurants, cafes and a market is 100% plant-based. On a nice day, take your food to go and picnic on the Providence Riverwalk, where you’ll find plenty of sunny seating options. Take the Michael S. Van Leesten Memorial Bridge – a sleek, car-free crossing to the West Side, where you can head to the arts district for more shopping – or scan the QR code on one of many murals to follow a self-guided public art tour. The murals and sculptures offer a mix of deep history and contemporary ideas to contemplate while you explore. 

Dinner 

Track 15 is the perfect destination when you can’t decide on a single restaurant. The food hall opened in March of this year at the site of the historic Union Station. Choose from one of seven restaurants, all of them with local roots and flavor. Dune Brothers is an easy choice, known for their sustainably sourced seafood – and the lobster roll is worth the splurge. Or sink your hunger into what is honestly the best smash burger I’ve ever eaten (and I’ve eaten a lot of smash burgers) at There There. 

After dark 

For the most inventive cocktails in town, head to Club Frills in Fox Point, a dark, wood-paneled, neon-backlit lounge with 1980s and 1990s-era nostalgia. This place sits at the perfect intersection of nightlife and chill; it’s not too crowded, not too loud, but it also makes you want to dance. And the cocktails! The Pere Ube is made with lavender-infused Parfait Amour; both the color and flavors are stunning. The Jaune Jawn is another feast for the senses, glowing with yellow bell pepper and neon-yellow chartreuse. Order a side of the Beer Tartacos, the tiniest tacos you’ve ever seen, stuffed with beef tartare. 

Sunday

Morning 

For my favorite brunch in town, get to Frank and Laurie’s – ideally, when they open at 10am. The interior will delight your senses before the menu arrives; a teal-blue ceiling and lots of wildflowers give cozy but modern Scandinavian cottage vibes. Come with a group so you can order a bunch of dishes and try them all. The croque madame with roasted pork shoulder is a decadent centerpiece for the table, and the marinated heirloom tomato salad with green crab chili crisp will honestly change your life. 

How to spend the day 

Head to College Hill on the East Side, home to Brown University and the Rhode Island School of Design. Reserve at least a few hours for the RISD museum, which houses an ambitious collection of art and design spanning cultures and time periods. With over 100,000 pieces, you can easily get lost for the whole day. Admission is free on Sundays and Thursday evenings. 

A steep walk brings you to a bookworm’s dream at the Providence Athenæum, a three-story library packed with books and drenched in sunlight on clear days. Climb to the top floor where little desks sit between stacks, offering a perfect work spot for members. (Nonmember visitors are welcome to explore – you just can’t use the desks!) Downstairs, you’ll find all the magazines and newspapers and big communal tables where you can enjoy some reading time. 

Back on the West Side, stop by Stages of Freedom, an African American bookshop and museum. They’re only open from 3-6pm, Wed-Friday, and noon to 4 on the weekends, but it’s worth working into your schedule for the only museum devoted to black history in the state. The collection is thorough and moving, and purchases support free swimming lessons for local Black youth. 

As 4pm approaches, claim your spot on the sidewalk outside of Gift Horse. As soon as the doors open for their oyster happy hour, the small space fills up with eager diners. It’s an energetic scene, as bivalves are shucked by the dozen. Try the Reef Keeper, a crisp gin cocktail made with RI sugar kelp. 

Dinner 

For a splurgy celebration of Rhode Island’s culinary delights, head to Nick’s on Broadway – with a reservation. This is one of Providence’s most popular restaurants, located a short walk from the main drag of Federal Hill, the city’s historic Little Italy. A counter seat will give you an exciting view into the making of your fish and ratatouille or tuna crudo. Everything is made with hyperlocal ingredients, so expect the menu to change based on seasonality and availability. 

After dark

Cap off the day with the irreverent and nostalgic Ogie’s Trailer Park, a funky themed bar with lots of indoor and patio space. For an equally nostalgic and fun alternative to the bar scene, practice your swing at The Dusty Planet, an indoor golf course.