

The view from the village of Old Pyli, Kos, the Dodecanese, Greece. Anetta Starowicz/Shutterstock
For many if not most visitors, Kos means beaches – and this Greek island has some of the finest sandy stretches of the Dodecanese, especially around the package-tourism hub of Kardamena in the south. Other spots – especially Mastihari on the north coast, and Kamari in the far southwest – offer superb deep-blue waters with far fewer crowds.
And Kos contains many treasures beyond its sandy shores, too. Mighty crags loom over the islands and give way to lush valleys, while millennia-old Corinthian columns poke through rampant wildflowers. The island has deep links to mythology: it is the sacred land of Asclepius, the god of healing. Hippocrates, the father of modern medicine (who lent his name to the oath all doctors today take), was born here, and Kos was the site of the world’s very first hospital.
In Kos Town, its lively capital, ancient Greek ruins are scattered at every turn, with a mighty medieval castle keeping watch over the harbor. Farther inland, and just a few kilometers away from town, the island retains considerable wilderness, with the rugged Dikeos mountains soaring to peaks almost 850m above the sea.
From beaches to ruins to inland adventures, here are seven experiences that showcase all Kos has to offer.

1. Consider the rich history of Kos Town
Fronted by a superb medieval castle, Kos Town is a handsome harbor community with an array of ruins from the Greek, Roman and Byzantine eras. The centrally located Archaeological Museum occupies an elegant building built during the Italian occupation of WWII. Its wonderful galleries contain a wealth of sculptures from the Hellenistic to late Roman eras, with a statue of Hippocrates and a 3rd-century-CE mosaic as the star attractions.
In the 14th century, the Knights of St John took more than a century to construct their magnificent Castle of the Knights. This means its architecture encompasses several historic periods – a delight for history buffs. Note that much of the castle currently remains closed for restoration.
Planning tip: Cycling is very popular on Kos and a great way to get around; options abound for renting a pair of wheels. Bike lanes thread all through Kos Town, with the busiest route running along the waterfront, connecting the town with Lambi to the north and Psalidi to the south.

2. Compare Kos Town’s ancient and modern central squares
Occupying a large area south of the castle, the Ancient Agora was an important marketplace, and the political and social hub of ancient Kos. Its landmarks include a massive, columned stoa, the ruins of a shrine to Aphrodite, the 2nd-century BCE Temple of Hercules and a 5th-century Christian basilica.
Adjacent to the Ancient Agora is Plateia Platanou (Platanos Sq), a lovely cobblestone square that shows off the charm and sedate pace of Kos Town at its best. Sitting in a cafe here, you can pay your respects to Hippocrates’ plane tree: the ancient doctor himself is said to have taught his pupils in its shade. While the tree must be one of Europe’s oldest planes, it almost surely doesn’t date back more than 200 years – yet it’s stately enough for the story to ring true.
A short walk away (and across from the Archaeological Museum), Dimotiki Agora is a great place to score well-priced local produce. Fragrant with spices, this lively open-arched market also has a cornucopia of vendors selling locally made honeys, natural soaps, bonbons, sandalwood spoons, mythological curios and Kalymnian sponges.
Planning tip: Linger at an outdoor table at Select Restaurant: it’s right in the center of town, shaded by trees and has straightforward, delicious food (you can’t go wrong with the grilled octopus and a salad).

3. Flee the crowds by heading to the island’s southwest beaches
Heading to the far southwest of the island, you’ll find a few truly lovely beaches that have yet to be touched by huge resorts. For a nature-based experience with few(er) resources, Magic Beach is a great spot. If you prefer to lie out in your birthday suit, Exotic Beach nearby is a naturist option. Lagada Beach (also called Banana Beach) also has great appeal.
Sadly, Agios Stefanos Beach, at the island’s far western end, has been ruined by a massive resort behind. Nevertheless, this small beachfront promontory offers up the always-photogenic islet of Kastri, with its tiny church. Though the island lies offshore, it’s within swimming distance.
On the west coast, Agios Theologos Beach is backed by meadow bluffs carpeted in olive groves, and feels far removed from the resort bustle. Delightfully, there’s not much to do here except swim and sunbathe.
Planning tip: If you’re staying in Kos Town, Lambi Beach, 2km outside of the center, is a busy strip with hotels and restaurants, and popular with windsurfers. Continuing west along the coastline toward the village of Tigaki, the crowds thin out, and there are unserviced, wild-ish areas where you can swim and relax on the sand.

4. Settle down for a bit in the perfect beach village of Mastihari
If you want a full day or a full week in the sun, make a beeline for Mastihari. Barely a village, this delightful old-fashioned beach resort holds everything a sunseeker could need. Here, a lovely broad strip of powder-fine sand is ringed by tamarisk trees, a clutch of whitewashed rental studios and small hotels, and a row of good waterfront tavernas and bars. While there’s no historic core and not much of architectural interest, the town is extremely appealing, and far more pleasant than many of the island’s other resort villages.
Planning tip: Leave your Mastihari dining needs to Makis, the proprietor of an eponymous restaurant in town. Expect a genuine Greek experience, as Makis whips up seafood and grilled meats at incredible prices.

5. Discover Asklepieion, an ancient site of healing
The island’s most important ancient site, Asklepieion stands on a pine-covered hill 3km southwest of Kos Town, commanding lovely views across the water toward Türkiye. A religious sanctuary devoted to Asclepius, the god of healing, the site also served as a medical center and a school, founded in the 3rd century BCE – according to legend, by Kos-born Hippocrates himself. (In reality, he was long dead by then; the training here was inspired by his teachings.) Until the sanatorium was destroyed by an earthquake in 554 CE, people came from far and wide for treatment.
The ruins occupy three levels, with the propylaeum (approach to the main gate), Roman-era public baths and remains of guest rooms on the first level. The second holds an altar of Kyparissos Apollo, with the 1st-century-BCE Temple to Apollo to the east and the first Temple of Asclepius, built in the 4th century BCE, to the west. The remains of its successor, the once-magnificent 2nd-century-BCE Temple of Asclepius, are on the third level. Climb a little farther, to the cool pine woods above, for the best views of all. A small museum on the path down preserves ancient inscriptions.
Planning tip: Bus 3 runs hourly from Kos Town to the site. You can also reach the site via a pleasant, if uphill, bike ride.
6. Learn about ancient medicine at the Hippocratic Garden
A little-known place a short distance from Asklepieion, the Hippocratic Botanic Garden & International Hippocratic Foundation is modest – but its small collection delights and inspires if you give it your full attention. The small, text-heavy exhibition on Hippocrates provides context on why he is so important to the development of medicine as we know it. He’s credited with separating medicine from religion and superstition, arguing in his travels, medical practice and writings that disease was not a punishment by the gods but rather the product of environmental factors, diet and lifestyle. A modern notion indeed.
The highlight is the botanic garden, with its plantings of herbs and plants that were used in Hippocratic times. Don’t expect neat rows of plants or well-pruned specimens: its scrappy feel is intentional, with plants left to grow in the conditions they would have in ancient times.
Insider tip: In the galleries, observe how the ancient medical instruments on display don’t look all that different from the ones in use today.

7. Explore beautiful mountain villages on a daylong road trip
Scattered on the green northern slopes of the Dikeos mountains, Kos’ villages are real gems, and visiting them makes for a delightful day on the road. Here’s a 13km-long circuit that will show you the island’s interior.
Your first stop should be Agios Dimitrios, a village abandoned in WWII; all that remains now are a village church and the cute Haihoutes cafe. Next, head west to the mountain village of Lagoudi Zia, once one of Kos’ prettiest villages but now essentially one very touristy street that’s frequented by busloads of tourists.
Dodge the crowds by doubling back to Asfendiou, where you’ll be rewarded with great views and beautiful churches – and most likely have them to yourself. Continue 5km farther west toward the less commercialized village of Pyli. Just before the village, a left turn leads to Old Pyli, whose extensive medieval remains are scattered amid the towering rocks and pine trees of a high, very magical hillside. The summit here is crowned by the stark ruins of Pyli Castle: the whole place is so untamed you half expect Pan, god of the wild, to pop up.
Planning tip: In Agios Dimitrios, be sure to check out Haihoutes cafe’s attached “museum,” a replica of a traditional home, plus photos in the wee church showing life as it used to be. In the evening, Haihoutes turns into a cafe-bar, and there’s sometimes live music, everything from island music to rembetika (Greek blues).
This article was adapted from Lonely Planet’s Greece guidebook, published in January 2025.