Scotland itinerary: Explore the wild West Coast on this 6-day driving tour
Jun 4, 2025 • 12 min read
Follow the West Coast of Scotland to take in some of the country's most stunning scenery. Daniel Lange/Shutterstock
Edinburgh may have the celebrity status, but Glasgow is the gateway to the West Coast of Scotland, and it’s the perfect starting point for a driving tour taking in the highlights of this loch-strewn, mountain-framed, scenery-drenched stretch of coastline.
On the following six-day itinerary, you can drop in on dramatic glens, climb to the summit of a Munro or two, and explore some of the mainland’s most beautiful beaches and headlands, finishing up on the rocky cliffs of Cape Wrath, with only the scattered Faroe Islands standing between you and the North Pole.
Public transport here is slow and infrequent – it’s better to come by car so you can detour off the trodden path and experience a different side to the Scottish Highlands away from the tourist hotspots.
If you’re in the mood for adventure, grab your camera, fill up the tank in Glasgow and embark on this six-day driving tour along Scotland’s wild and wonderful West Coast.
When to arrive
You’ll be exposed to the full force of the Atlantic weather, so try to time your trip to coincide with the milder conditions from spring to fall. The best time to come is from May to September, but midges can be a hassle close to water from June to August; coming in May or September means more rain and lower temperatures, but fewer bugs and smaller crowds.
Driving the West Coast in winter is a more ambitious undertaking. Once you get north of Fort William, the roads narrow, and snow, ice and gales can impede progress over ridges between the glens. If you can only visit in winter, consider a trip through the eastern Highlands instead. Prepare for emergencies by carrying food, water, blankets and a mobile phone and charger.
How to get around
The early stages of the trip are theoretically possible by bus and train from Glasgow but public transport thins markedly north of Fort William. Coming with a car – easily hired in Glasgow – will give you much more freedom to explore. You’ll also be able to enjoy the full glory of the western section of the North Coast 500 (NC500) – the dramatic coastal road that snakes right around the northern tip of Scotland.
What to pack
You’ll want warm layers year-round. Summer temperatures can reach 19°C (66°F) but it’s noticeably cooler in the evenings and overnight. There’s a chance of rain at any time of year, so bring a windproof layer and rainproofs, which are better than an umbrella in this gust-prone part of the country.
During the midge season, bring repellent and wear long sleeves and trousers to minimize exposed skin. Be sure to pack sturdy, waterproof footwear and spare dry socks for walks. If you want to bring a tent, wild camping is possible on unenclosed land along the route, but follow the Scottish Outdoor Access Code.
Day 1: Track the West Highland Way from Glasgow to Glen Coe
Go to Glen Coe: Leave Glasgow on the A82, threading northward beside island-dotted Loch Lomond, loosely following the path of the legendary West Highland Way walking route through the heart of Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park.
How to spend the day: As you exit Glasgow, the houses give way to green countryside as you cross the River Clyde and spill onto the southern shore of Loch Lomond. Though swarms of visitors gravitate toward Loch Lomond and its bonnie banks, it’s still a gorgeous spot to pause and take in the scenery.
Kayaks, canoes, SUPs, water-skis and wakeboards – all perfect for exploring the lakeshore – are available to rent from Loch Lomond Leisure at Luss and Rowardennan, or you can cruise out to investigate Loch Lomond’s 22 islands and 27 islets on a trip with Sweeney’s Cruises or Cruise Loch Lomond.
From Luss, you can also take the waterbus to Inchcailloch, a national nature reserve where you can climb a short path for incredible views of Ben Lomond and Conic Hill, visit an ancient burial ground and picnic on the golden-sand beach.
Or, if you’re brave (and warm-blooded), consider a spot of wild swimming. Detour along the A811 to reach Lake of Menteith or Loch Venacher, two clean, clear lochs with safe entry points for swimmers, flanked by dramatic Highland scenery to the east of 974m (3196ft) Ben Lomond.
To climb Ben Lomond, allow four to six hours for the return walk from Rowardennan on the east shore; you can reach Rowardennan by waterbus from Tarbet on the west shore. As the afternoon wears on, follow the road onward through some of Scotland’s most memorable scenery as you wind north to Glen Coe.
You’ll pass through increasingly wild and exposed country, which shifts from green to purply-brown as the landscape rises to heather-capped ridges. You might recognize some of the scenery from the Bond movie Skyfall, filmed partly here and partly in Glen Etive to the south.
Evening: For dinner, you can eat in Glencoe village at Moss Glencoe – fantastic for locally sourced seafood – or head back down the A82 to enjoy real ales and pub grubs with walkers and climbers for company at the Clachaig Inn or the Climbers Bar at the historic Kingshouse Hotel.
Day 2. Roam from Glen Coe to Loch Ness
Go to Fort Augustus: You don’t have far to go today, but you’ll want to make long stops in the morning and afternoon to see the landscapes around Glen Coe and Fort William.
How to spend the day: It would be remiss to leave Glen Coe without taking a walk in this moody but magical landscape. The summits of Glen Coe’s mountains are for experienced climbers only, but there are plenty of short, easy walks around An Torr, Signal Rock and Glencoe Lochan. Walk Highlands has a detailed guide to the best routes for walkers at all levels of fitness and experience.
Before you drive onward, drop into Glen Coe’s Folk Museum; in the hush of a heather-thatched croft, you can learn about Highland life and the grim circumstances of the Glencoe Massacre, when the loyalist Campbells, who were house guests of Clan MacDonald at the time, were ordered by William III of England to kill their hosts as punishment for their loyalty to the Jacobite cause – a scene worthy of Game of Thrones.
It’s only 26 miles (42km) from Glen Coe to Fort William, basking on the shores of Loch Linnhe amid magnificent mountain scenery. Fort William has one of the most enviable settings in the whole of Scotland, and it’s the ideal base for exploring the slopes of 1344m (4409ft) Ben Nevis, Britain’s highest mountain.
Summiting Ben Nevis would take a whole day; with just an afternoon to spare, you can take in soul-stirring views of the mountain from Corpach, just north of Fort William, then immerse yourself in the scenery on a hike through narrow Glen Nevis to Steall Falls, where scenes from Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire were filmed.
Driving a little further north on the A82 through Invergarry to Fort Augustus will place you right on the shores of Loch Ness for morning views, and perhaps even a sighting of Nessie…
Evening: In Fort Augustus, the Bothy and Boathouse serve filling, warming Scottish menus to recharge the batteries after a day of walking.
Day 3. Follow Loch Ness to Inverness and the West Coast
Go to Inverness and Torridon: Today, you’ll explore Loch Ness and Inverness and then pick up the western end of the NC500 driving route, which will take you away from the crowds on the mainland’s most beautiful stretch of shoreline.
How to spend the day: In the morning, follow Loch Ness north to Inverness, with a couple of essential stops to soak up Nessie mythology. Follow the western shore of Nessie-obsessed Drumnadrochit, where the Loch Ness Centre delves into the monster legend. Nearby Urquhart Castle is a favorite Nessie-watching spot, with outstanding views on clear days.
Exit Loch Ness to the north to reach Inverness, pausing long enough to grab a bite of lunch (try the Bad Girl Bakery & Cafe in the market) and take a turn around the Inverness Castle gardens and the bridge-linked Ness Islands before you get back in the car and leave the crowds behind.
Follow the A835 northeast, then leave at Garve onto the scenic A832, passing a tangled chain of lochs and wide, low glens that feel increasingly remote as you approach the coast. Loop slightly south through Lochcarron to reach the Applecross Peninsula, where the Bealach na Ba (“Pass of the Cattle”) makes the highest ascent above sea level of any road in the UK.
After a series of single-track, hairpin bends, you’ll be rewarded with monumental views stretching all the way to Raasay and Skye. Stop for a stroll on the beach or a fantastic bite to eat at the inviting Applecross Walled Garden, before exiting via the coastal road to reach Torridon, where you can stop for the night at the award-winning Torridon Youth Hostel.
Evening: There’s swanky eating at the swish, tower-topped Torridon hotel, or cozy Scottish staples just along the loch shore at Tigh an Eilean in Shieldaig.
Day 4: Follow a stunning coastline to Ullapool
Go to Ullapool: Daisy-chain between lochs and inlets around rock-capped Beinn Eighe (1010m/3310ft), then follow picturesque Loch Maree to Gairloch and dart into exposed coves en route to Ullapool.
How to spend the day: With Beinn Eighe dominating the skyline, it’s tempting to climb higher. The four-mile (6.4km) Beinn Eighe Mountain Trail explores the ancient Caledonian pine woodland and wild mountain terrain of the Beinn Eighe National Nature Reserve, peaking at the Conservation Cairn at 550m (1804ft).
At Gairloch, you’ll weave between scenic headlands to pretty coves with sandy beaches, divided by rumpled ridges. Pause at the Inverewe Garden – a startling splash of color, created by botanist Osgood Mackenzie in 1862 to take advantage of the warming effect of the Gulf Stream. There are flowers or foliage on display in every season.
Continue along the so-called “Destitution Road” – built during the potato famines of the late 1840s to provide work for destitute crofters – to meet the A835 near the Corrieshalloch Gorge, which cuts an improbably deep slash through beautifully wooded hillsides. Walking trails lead along the bank of the Abhainn Droma river to the Falls of Measach, which thunder spectacularly into the gorge.
End the day in Ullapool, the largest town in Wester Ross, a veritable metropolis in a region of soaring peaks, quiet glens and show-stopping wildlife, and the departure point for ferries to Stornoway on the Isle of Lewis.
Evening: Ullapool is well-stocked with eateries. Seafood Shack makes a nod to Ullapool’s historic herring-fishing past, with simple, tasty seafood dishes. Otherwise, you can go high-end, sampling inventive tasting menus at Dipping Lugger.
Day 5: Follow wonderful, wild coves north to Durness
Go to Durness: Today, you’ll follow the back roads that make up the NC500 north along the coast to Durness on Scotland’s lonely northern shore.
How to spend the day: Exit Loch Broom to the north of Ullapool, for the first detour of the day. The main NC500 route veers inland, but the landscape along the coastline demands closer attention. The Coigach Peninsula is dominated by the lonely spur of Stac Pollaidh (612m/2008ft) – you can get up and down this looming buttress in less than three hours, enjoying incredible views of moody mountain peaks, silvery lochs and undulating islands from the summit.
Alternatively, consider a kayaking trip to the Summer Isles, a remote collection of uninhabited islands scattered off the coast of Coigach, where Loch Broom meets The Minch (the strait separating the mainland from Lewis and Harris). You can paddle between the islands with Kayak Summer Isles, exploring the coastline, caves and sea arches.
Between Inchmadamph and Kylesku, take another detour along the Drumbeg Loop, one of Europe’s most unforgettable driving experiences. The B869 squeezes its way between the soaring peaks of Quinag and the rugged shores of Loch a’ Chuarn Bhain, offering soul-stirring views en route.
Pause to take in the humbling scenery at the crashing Clashnessie Falls or the idyllic sands of Achmelvich Bay. If time allows, head off-loop to see lovely Stoer Lighthouse and hike up the coast to the towering Old Man of Stoer sea stack, where whales are sometimes spotted.
As an alternative to the Drumberg Loop, consider detouring off the main route at tiny Tarbet, the departure point for the Handa Island Ferry (daily except Sunday) to the nature reserve of Handa Island. The island's western sea cliffs provide nesting sites for important breeding populations of great skuas, arctic skuas, puffins, kittiwakes, razorbills and guillemots. Bookend the day with the easy trip up the A838 to Durness.
Evening: Evening eating options in Durness are simple – try the cozy restaurant at the Smoo Cave Hotel for a seafood supper.
Day 6: Admire the views from Cape Wrath
Explore around Durness: To reach Cape Wrath, board the Cape Wrath ferry in tiny Keoldale, two miles south of Durness: it’s a 10-minute trip, followed by a bumpy, one-hour minibus drive. In the afternoon, explore the coast east of Durness by car, then cross the Highlands via Lairg to end the tour in Inverness.
How to spend the day: The journey to Cape Wrath is well worth the effort and time investment, At the most northwesterly point in Scotland, you’ll stand buffeted by Atlantic winds, looking across the Clo Mor Cliffs – the highest cliffs in mainland Britain – and listening to the mournful call of seabirds swooping around the Cape Wrath lighthouse.
Return the same way and you’ll be back in Durness for lunch, head to Cocoa Mountain for a croissant and a hot chocolate, and browse the crafts on offer at the Balnakeil Craft Village. Take a stroll along beautiful Balnakeil Beach, then head east to visit Smoo Cave, with its unique chambers formed both by the sea and by rainwater.
Close out this West Coast itinerary by driving back to Inverness, crossing a calming sweep of flattened hills and glens on the A836 to Lairg on Loch Shin, then picking up the A9 just north of Dornoch Firth for the final run to Inverness
Evening: Celebrate the end of a classic Highlands road trip with a shot of your favorite single malt (or a pint of Scottish real ale) at one of Inverness’ lively watering holes. Locals rate the Castle Tavern, with its castle-facing beer garden, and the gastro offerings at the Walrus & Corkscrew and MacGregor’s.
This article was adapted from Lonely Planet’s Scottish Highlands & Islands guidebook, published in June 2025.
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