A first-time guide to New York's Finger Lakes

The Finger Lakes is one of those places that people mean to visit. But tucked deep into the heart of central New York and surrounded by farmland, the area is often overshadowed – by the Great Lakes to the north, the Hudson Valley closer to New York City and even Niagara Falls with its flashy cascade. That makes discovering the Finger Lakes all the more special.

Named for the 11 long, narrow lakes, this region goes well beyond simple labels. It’s a top-tier wine destination (especially if you’re into riesling, pinot noir and other cool-climate grapes), a playground for paddlers and hikers, and a haven for anyone who loves farm-to-table food or indie boutiques. One minute you’re chasing waterfalls in a college town with serious cultural cred, the next you’re sipping cab franc on a lakeside patio or wandering through a museum that rivals big city institutions. There’s depth here, along with plenty of surprises.

This guide shares everything you need to know to plan your first Finger Lakes trip. 

When should I go to the Finger Lakes?

Summer is the peak season, drawing crowds with warm but not hot weather, endless lake activities and a packed calendar of outdoor concerts, festivals and farmers markets. Fall, though, is the most magical time. September and October usher in harvest season, crisp air, fiery foliage and festive orchards and cider mills straight out of a Hallmark movie. Spring visits are about finding the sweet spot, with fair temps, everything in bloom and raging waterfalls – it is ideal for hiking and exploring state parks.

Unsurprisingly, winter is quiet in the Finger Lakes. The weather is harsh and often challenging, and many wineries and restaurants reduce their hours. Still, snowmobiling, ice fishing and visiting frozen waterfalls or cozy spas make it an underrated time to visit. Just bring a heavy coat. 

How much time should I spend in the Finger Lakes?

The Finger Lakes are perfect for a long weekend, especially given their proximity to major cities like New York, Philadelphia, Cleveland and Toronto – all of which are within a five-hour drive. But because the area is so spread out, you could easily pass a month here and still not see everything.

With two or three days, I recommend choosing a home base to explore from, like Ithaca, Rochester, Syracuse or a single lake town. Otherwise, you’ll spend more time driving than experiencing the region. Split your time between sipping local wine and beer, trying farm-to-table restaurants and getting outside for hiking, biking or paddling.

If you have five to seven days (or longer), you’ll get a more comprehensive feel for the region. Check out multiple lakes, leisurely explore museums and historic sites, and venture beyond bustling Seneca and Cayuga to quieter nooks like Keuka or Skaneateles. 

Is it easy to get in and around the Finger Lakes?

The most common way to get to the Finger Lakes is by car – and that’s how you’ll want to explore once you're here. Beyond the 11 lakes, the sprawling region includes dozens of inviting towns, wineries and state parks scattered throughout. A car is essential for getting around and making spontaneous stops, whether it’s a farmstand brimming with produce or a roadside waterfall.

Rochester and Syracuse have the closest airports, each a 90-minute drive from the largest lake, Seneca. Amtrak’s Empire Service and Maple Leaf trains also serve Rochester and Syracuse, as well as Buffalo a bit further afield, while buses run to towns like Ithaca, Geneva and Elmira. While those options get you close, you’ll still need a vehicle to fully experience the region.

There is one exception: several local tour operators will do the driving so you can safely explore the Finger Lakes’ many tasting rooms without worrying about getting behind the wheel.

Top things to do in the Finger Lakes

Set out from Syracuse

Use Syracuse as a base camp for exploring the northeastern Finger Lakes, starting with the local food scene. Nicknamed Salt City, Syracuse is part of the Upstate Eats Trail. Sample the local dish, salt potatoes, at buzzy Salt City Market or tuck into Pastabilities for house-made pasta and the restaurant's signature invention, stretch bread. Barbecue fans, head to the original Dinosaur Bar-B-Que.

Some 30 minutes west, the storybook village of Skaneateles is worth at least an afternoon. Stroll down the pier, browse in the shops and have lunch at Doug’s Fish Fry. Try another version of stretch bread at Patisserie or sip a glass of wine with lake views at Anyela’s Vineyard. Make it an overnight with a stay at Mirbeau Inn & Spa; the Monet-esque retreat tucked along the lake is known for its fabulous spa. 

On the other side of Syracuse, Green Lakes State Park has two blue-green glacial lakes surrounded by forested trails, a sandy beach and even a golf course. Back in the city, round out your visit by learning why the Everson Museum of Art calls itself “a museum of firsts” or all about local brewery history at the Brewseum at Heritage Hill. Then toast the trip with a pint in the on-site brewhouse.

See why ‘Ithaca is gorges’

Perched on the southern end of Cayuga Lake, Ithaca is a gorgeous (or "gorges," as noted in its tourism slogan) paradise for culture and outdoor lovers. Several waterfalls flow in town, with Buttermilk, Ithaca and Taughannock Falls all quick, easy stops. At Taughannock (pronounced “tuh-gan-nick”), take the flat Gorge Trail to the base of the 215ft (65m) falls or head to the overlook for no-hiking-required views. Grab sandwiches, salads and picnic fixings from nearby Trumansburg's Main Street Market. 

In Ithaca proper, fuel up at Press Cafe, wander through Ithaca Commons and have brunch or lunch at Milkstand (get the Brie-stuffed French toast or sriracha-agave brussels sprouts). Explore the incredible Museum of the Earth or the free Johnson Museum of Art on the Cornell University campus.

Detour to Watkins Glen State Park, 40 minutes west, and make time for tastings along the east side of Seneca Lake. Top-notch wineries like Wagner Vineyards Estate Winery, Boundary Breaks and Atwater Vineyards line this stretch, all with stunning lake views. Switch it up at Grist Iron Brewing, a favorite of pup parents; it even has on-site dog-friendly lodging. While you’re in Watkins Glen, sail Seneca Lake aboard the vintage schooner True Love, then have dinner at Graft Wine and Cider Bar and a scoop from local favorite Glen Dairy Bar.

About 30 minutes south, explore charming downtown Corning and the renowned Corning Museum of Glass. It overshadows the Rockwell Museum, so you can explore the Smithsonian affiliate without crowds. In nearby Elmira, see the study where Mark Twain penned some of his most famous words on the campus of Elmira College, the first American university to grant women degrees equivalent to men’s. Also in Elmira, thrill seekers can ride in a motorless sailplane at the National Soaring Museum.

Use Rochester as home base

Rochester is an ideal jumping-off point for exploring both the Finger Lakes and Lake Ontario. In the city, visit the interactive Strong National Museum of Play. Then dive into Rochester’s deep ties to women’s rights at the National Susan B Anthony Museum and House before sipping a beer at Genesee Brewing Company, one of the oldest breweries in the US. Get on the water in a unique way by cruising through century-old locks on an Erie Canal cruise in a replica packet boat with Sam Patch.

Hit up adorable Geneva for indie shops, coffee at Monaco's and standout meals at Anorah or Kindred Fare. In Victor, Ganondagan State Historic Site tells the important story of a 17th-century Seneca town that stood here hundreds of years ago.

Head south to Penn Yan for a tranquil kayaking session on Sugar Creek and Keuka Lake from the Saunders Finger Lakes Museum. Unexpected bonus: the launch is ADA-accessible. Afterward, treat yourself to pastries from Blue Heron Bakery. At the lake’s southern tip, tiny Hammondsport impresses with a big food scene. Living Roots vineyard pairs Aussie innovation with Finger Lakes grapes, and the historic (built in 1861) Park Inn sources produce from the local Glenn Scott Farm.

If time allows, road-trip to Sodus Point on Lake Ontario. This quaint port town has boat tours, fruit stands, and a lovely mix of cozy B&Bs and lakefront mansions. 

My favorite thing to do in the Finger Lakes

Without question, my favorite place in the Finger Lakes is Watkins Glen State Park, at the foot of Seneca Lake, where 19 waterfalls spill over dark, moody cliffs into a narrow gorge that feels more Indiana Jones than upstate New York. The Gorge Trail takes you behind and under waterfalls, along stone bridges and through dramatic tunnels.

How much money do I need for the Finger Lakes?

The Finger Lakes are refreshingly affordable compared to other wine regions. Lodging spans the gamut, with budget motels, historic B&Bs and lakeside resorts. Wine tastings and meals can add up, but picnicking at waterfalls or grabbing a bottle to go keeps things balanced. Prices spike during the summer and leaf-peeping season, but with a little planning, you can avoid busting your budget. Here’s a general idea of local costs:

• Wine tasting at a lakeside winery: $10–15

• Bottle of Session Red from Living Roots: $20

• Bottle of pinot noir from Wagner: $30

• Pint of craft beer at Grist Iron: $8–9.50

• Night at the Carriage House Inn: $120–179

• Night at the Lake House on Canandaigua: from $450

• Dinner at Kindred Fare: $28–40

• Latte: $4.50–6

• Admission for New York State Parks: $6–10

• Erie Canal cruise with Sam Patch: $25–30