The ultimate long weekend on Kangaroo Island, South Australia

Kangaroo Island is South Australia stripped back to its raw, windswept best. Just a short hop from the mainland (by ferry or scenic flight), Australia's third-largest island feels a world away – a sanctuary for wildlife, fine produce and people who like their horizons big and building-free.

As a born-and-bred South Aussie with a soft spot for places that make you feel small, I keep coming back to KI (as the locals call it) chasing the same grounding feeling: wave-lashed coastlines, sprawling eucalyptus forests and the quiet thrill of standing barefoot on an empty beach. It’s also one of the best places to spot Australia’s most famous inhabitants, including wallabies, kangaroos and koalas. The island is surprisingly large, but you can loop the highlights in three to four days minimum, although you should allow more time if you can.

Whether you're here for the wildlife, the walks, the wine or the wow-factor, KI leaves you feeling a little smaller and a little wilder – in the best possible way.

• When to arrive: Plan your visit during peak season (September and April) when everything's open and the island's buzzing. Winter can be quiet, with shorter hours or doors shut altogether, so if going then, time your trip over a weekend. Arrive early Friday, head back late Monday, and squeeze every drop from your stay.

• How to get to Kangaroo Island: Drive south from Adelaide for 1 hour and 45 minutes for the scenic 45-minute crossing on the SeaLink ferry from Cape Jervis to Penneshaw. If you're without a car on the mainland, a once-daily bus service also connects to the terminal. If time's tight, Rex Airlines operates 30-minute flights from Adelaide to Kingscote, the island's sleepy but well-stocked hub.

• Getting around: No matter how you arrive, you'll need your own wheels to explore freely. Car hire is available at Kingscote Airport and Penneshaw Wharf. Alternatively, pre-book a tour. Exceptional Kangaroo Island has packages tailored to different interests, travel styles and time frames.

• Where to stay: While Kingscote is the main town, most visitors bunk down in nature-wrapped holiday homes near Emu Bay, Vivonne Bay and American River. If you're happy to camp, pitch a tent at the no-frills Chapman River Campground beside the blissfully scenic river mouth in Antechamber Bay. Near Flinders Chase, Discovery Parks offers cabins and campsites nestled in native scrub. Cash to splash? Splurge at Southern Ocean Lodge, KI's luxe cliff-hugging crown jewel that has lured celebrities such as Zac Efron, Chris Hemsworth and Katy Perry. Stays start from $3400 a night.

• What to pack: Keep it simple: bring warm layers, outdoor gear and anything you'll need for a day at the beach. Ready-made meals are scarce in KI's west, so stock up before you arrive. But leave honey, pollen products and unwashed potatoes back on the mainland; strict biosecurity rules keep them off the island.

Day 1

Morning

Welcome to island life! If you've just rolled off the ferry at Penneshaw Wharf, take a breath – it's a crawl through the line of cars as everyone disembarks. If you touch down at Kingscote Airport, Penneshaw is an easy 40-minute drive along the east coast.

A short shuffle from the ferry terminal, Millie Mae's Pantry is the kind of place you'd want to land after an early wake-up and a windy crossing over Backstairs Passage. Grab a table in the courtyard and dig into brunch plates loaded with KI's finest – sticky figs, briny olives, roasted mushrooms and poached seasonal fruits. Ferry timetables impact a busy kitchen, so if you're thinking about swinging back before your return trip to the mainland, give yourself plenty of extra time.

How to spend the day

Start your Kangaroo Island adventure cruising the salt-lashed south coast. Beach hop between Pennington Bay, D'Estrees Bay and Bales Beach – three local favorites with white sand, curious marine life and thumping swells, especially in winter. The breaks here are crisp and uncrowded, but you'll need to bring a board from the mainland – there are no island rentals. Save your swim for Vivonne Bay's coral-speckled shallows beside the sheltered jetty.

Just five minutes from Bales, Seal Bay Conservation Park delivers one of KI's signature wildlife moments. Wander the elevated boardwalk or join a guided tour onto the beach to see endangered Australian sea lions up close loafing, barking and belly-flopping along the beach. Just west, Little Sahara swaps the sea for giant inland dunes. This is home turf for Kangaroo Island Outdoor Action, who'll kit you out for sand tobogganing, lead you on a coastal quad-bike trail or have you kayaking the quiet bends of the Harriet River.

Swing by the Vivonne Bay General Store for a late lunch. Low-key but reliable, it serves hot chips, seafood snacks and surprisingly good coffee. The kitchen shuts at 3:30pm sharp, so don't push your luck because it's the only spot for miles.

Dinner

You won't find any late meals on the island's wild south coast, so come prepared. Most shacks around Vivonne Bay have kitchens (note: two-night minimums are common), and there's a shared barbecue at the local campground. Prefer eating out? Kingscote's your closest bet – but it's a 90-minute round trip, which feels even longer after a big day on the road.

Day 2

Morning

Start slow with sand between your toes at Vivonne Bay, trying to spot tammar wallabies grazing by the jetty, plovers skittering through the surf and, if the season’s right (May to September), a humpback whale breaching way out on the blue. Boil some tea, fry up brekkie – mornings don't get more peaceful than this.

How to spend the day

Set aside a full day to explore Flinders Chase National Park – a wind-carved wonderland of twisted rock and roaming wildlife. If you haven’t sorted your parks pass, swing by the visitor center first for the latest track updates, sturdy wi-fi (a rare treat out this way), and a decent wrap or caffeine kick from the Rocks Cafe.

Start by clambering over wind-blasted boulders at Remarkable Rocks – KI’s big-ticket icon – carved by the elements into otherworldly shapes streaked with rust-orange lichen. Just down the road, Admirals Arch frames the Southern Ocean through a craggy tunnel, where long-nosed fur seals haul out between the tides. Underground at Kelly Hill Conservation Park, limestone caves glint with stalactites, while the 4km (2.5mi) Snake Lagoon Hike winds from forest to riverbank to sea – an easy out-and-back with a big payoff. It's part of the Kangaroo Island Wilderness Trail, a five-day trek taking in dramatic seascapes and fire-scarred wilderness. Keep your eyes peeled for green shoots pushing through.

After dark

Dinner is DIY this far out, so bring supplies and cook on-site. Afterward, head to Hanson Bay Wildlife Sanctuary for the Sunset Nocturnal Adventure Tour, a rare chance to spot koalas, echidnas, wallabies and possums stirring under the stars.

Day 3

Morning

Set out early for Kangaroo Island’s rugged northwest. At Cape Borda, South Australia's only square lighthouse stands tall on a limestone cliff. It was built in 1858 to guide ships through Investigator Strait's notoriously treacherous waters. Wander the historic keeper's cottage, then follow the short cliff-top walk along wild, windswept headlands that stretch out to sea. Bring layers and keep your eyes peeled for distant whales in winter.

How to spend the day

Turn east along the north coast and spend a few hours soaking up its string of swim-ready beaches. Western River Cove is a wild, photogenic spot where a freshwater creek slips into the sea. Snelling Beach offers calm waters and golden sands framed by low headlands. Emu Bay’s hard-packed sands are 4WD-friendly, stretching around crystal-clear shallows that draw families and anglers alike. But the real gem is Stokes Bay – a secret white-sand crescent tucked behind a rocky tunnel, where a sheltered rockpool makes for safe swimming even when the ocean is unruly. Nearby, the seasonal Rockpool Cafe (open September to May) dishes up local King George whiting – a true taste of island life.

After days on the island’s wild western edges, it’s time to savor the indulgent east. Kingscote makes a handy base, with cafés, a supermarket and easy access to paddock-to-plate producers. Knock back a hoppy tasting paddle at Kangaroo Island Brewery or sip gins infused with native juniper and saltbush at KI Spirits – book ahead to blend your own botanicals. At Bay of Shoals, cliff-top vines tumble to the sea, best soaked up with a crisp riesling and an island cheese board. Leave time for the sensory detours: aromatic scones and soaps at Emu Bay Lavender Farm, sticky sweet ice cream at Clifford's Honey Farm and steam-distilled eucalyptus oil at Emu Ridge.

Dinner

Wrap up your final night with a hearty feed and a dose of local flavor. In Kingscote, Amadio's Vino e Cucina brings winery polish to the island's rustic charm, pairing handmade pasta with its own labels. Local favorite Bella Cafe & Pizza Bar serves homey wood-fired pizzas, cold beers and familiar banter. Over in Penneshaw, Fire & Smoke brings a big-hearted pizza menu, fresh-off-the-boat seafood and oceanfront seating.

After dark

If you're staying near Penneshaw, round out your evening with a trip to the Penguin Centre. Local experts lead torchlit tours through the coastal scrub, where Little Penguins waddle ashore after a day's fishing. The 140-year-old Penneshaw Pub is your spot for a fireside nightcap, drinking in the night as it stretches out over Backstairs Passage.

Day 4

Morning

Wherever you bunked down, kick off your final day with sand between your toes – a last peaceful beach stroll is never wasted. In Kingscote, Cactus does a cracking barista coffee and a big ol' pancake stack. Over in Penneshaw, Fat Beagle Coffee Shop is a laid-back local haunt. Grab a table out front and tuck into a breakfast burrito or bacon and egg roll with homemade relish.

How to spend the day

Finally, slow your pace and let the Dudley Peninsula reveal a softer side of KI. Penneshaw is more than a ferry port – it's a launchpad for your last adventures. Climb aboard a Kangaroo Island Ocean Safari tour for a fresh dose of sea air, cruising by rugged sea cliffs while watching dolphins frolic off the bow. Back on solid ground, False Cape lays out gourmet grazing platters and award-winning wines, while Dudley Wines delivers big coastal views with cool-climate drops and wood-fired pizzas – the perfect place to raise a glass and toast your time on the island.