Fringed by the mighty Tian Shan mountains, Almaty, Kazakhstan’s largest city and onetime capital, is a terrific starting point for any adventure in this vast Central Asian country. While Kazakhstan is justly hailed for its plethora of outdoor adventures, don’t overlook the pleasures of its most bustling metropolis, which has an eclectic collection of architecture and vibrant arts scene.

Anyone who loves art, music, food and more will find more than enough here to fill a weekend – or more. 

1. Picnic, dress up and ride a Ferris wheel at the top of Kök-Töbe

Kök-Töbe (the Green Hill) looms above the city, a go-to spot for fun with views of the urban panorama below and the snow-capped mountains beyond. At its top, you’ll find an amusement park and lots of vendors selling Kazakh handicrafts and other souvenirs. You can have your photo taken in traditional dress, catch live music on summer nights and enjoy a picnic on fair days. The whole scene feels a little touristy, sure – but it’s also just plain fun. And you won’t solely be surrounded by tourists, for the hill is wildly popular with locals, too. A highlight of any excursion here is the cable-car ride up, which costs 5000 tenge ($10.40) round-trip.

A table set with traditional Kazakh dishes at Qaimaq Restaurant, top-down view, Almaty, National Restaurant Qaimaq, Kazakhstan
In Almaty, you shouldn’t miss the chance to try beshbarmak and other Kazakh delicacies. Sembi Production for Lonely Planet

2. Eat like a Kazakh by digging into a plate of horsemeat

While it might not rival southern Shymkent as a center of traditional cuisine, Almaty has the most international food scene in the country, as well as plenty of worthy places for trying national dishes. The most common type of restaurant in Almaty are spots serving shashlik, skewered meat on the grill. For a special meal where you might try beshbarmak, the famous Kazakh specialty of horsemeat and flat noodles, check out Abay on Kök-Töbe, or Sandyq, an upscale chain.

3. Check out Central Asia’s liveliest club scene

Want to party with the socialites of Central Asia? Almaty is where you’ll find them. Red Room is known for its wild DJ sets, while the younger crowd favors the straightforwardly named The Club. For those who want to party past the break of dawn, Gogol Night Club has after parties that last until 8am on Saturday.

4. Get lashed with oak leaves at Arasan Baths

After a day out on the town, a hiking or skiing excursion in nearby Shymbulak, or simply as a way to kick off your journey in Kazakhstan, visit the Arasan Baths. In the city center, this imposing ’70s-era bathhouse combines traditional Central Asian bath-house features with high–Soviet Modernist design. 

Plan to stay for 2 hours as you work your way through the Finnish sauna, Russian banya, and Moroccan and Turkish hammam (steam rooms). You can stay longer by booking a massage or traditional veniki (beating with oak leaves). Access starts at 1500–2000 tenge (US$3–4) per hour, with extra for add-ons like massages or sandal and towel rentals. 

An aerial photo of Ascension Cathedral, a Russian Orthodox cathedral located in Panfilov Park in Almaty, Kazakhstan, with green park and Soviet-style buildings around
Ascension (Zemov) Cathedral is the anchor of Almaty’s leafy Panfilov Park. Artaxerxes Longhand/Getty Images

5. Consider Russian and Soviet history at Panfilov Park

In the center of the city, Panfilov Park is Almaty’s most popular green space. Dating back to the 19th century, the elegant park is laid out around the yellow, fairy-tale-like Ascension (or Zenkov) Cathedral, which stands at its center. Today, many of the park’s monuments – such as the monument to Ivan Panfilov, to whom the park is dedicated; an eternal flame commemorating fallen heroes; and a smattering of Soviet-era tanks and artillery – present a visual representation of Soviet military culture.

6. Enjoy a dose of culture at top-notch museums

Immerse yourself in Kazakh history at the Central State Museum – from prehistoric artifacts to traditional carved balbal columns to stunning gold adornments. While not all exhibit texts are in English, many of these distinctive objects speak for themselves. The Kazakhstan Museum of Arts has by far the world’s largest collection of Kazakh art, in particular a fascinating collection of work by Soviet-realist painter Abylkhan Kasteev (1904–73). The Tselinny Contemporary Arts Center, which reopens in January 2025 after a renovation, is where to go to see work by new and exciting Kazakh artists.

A view of three sellers of dairy products and cheese at the Green Bazaar, a market hall in Almaty, Kazakhstan
At the Green Market, you can stock up on cheeses, horsemeat and other Kazakh delicacies. And remember the price is always negotiable. Sebastian Kahnert/picture alliance via Getty Images

7. Haggle for groceries at the Green Market

If you’re in Central Asia, a visit to the bazaar is a must – and Almaty’s most central and most beautiful is the bustling Green Market. Here, you can do your grocery shopping, discover herbs from the Kazakh mountains, stock up on teas from China and much more. Dried fruits and nuts from neighboring Uzbekistan are abundant as well. 

Don’t miss the dairy section, where you’ll find tables selling kurut, the salty cheese that keeps shepherds on horseback from feeling peckish as they ride across the vast steppe. (We’ve heard the delicacy also pairs well with local vodka.)

Planning tip: Don’t be afraid to haggle on prices at the bazaar. It’s a cultural expectation.

A man on skis ski touring uphill with beard and backpack on a high snowy mountain near traditional nomad yurt house at ski resort Shymbulak in Almaty, Kazakhstan
The ski resort of Shymbulak is just 20 minutes from central Almaty. Shutterstock

8. Take to the slopes of Shymbulak…

The spectacular Tian Shan mountains loom over Almaty – which makes the ski resort of Shymbulak just a 20-minute ride from the center of town. Winter visitors can ski around 20km (12.5 miles) of runs, with eight lifts to get you up the mountain. It’s possible to rent both skis and ski clothes on site. 

The resort is also a great summer destination, with lots of hiking trails, a few mountain restaurants and horseback-riding excursions. 

Planning tip: Every half hour, bus number 12 leaves the city center to the Medeu ice rink. From here, you can grab the lift up to the resort.  

9. …or take to the ice at Medeu

Lace up a pair of ice skates and trace a few figure eights on the world’s highest skating rink. Once an important training center for ice skaters thanks to the benefits of practice at high altitudes, the Medeu skating rink is also a quick ride from town. 

More than 200 speed records have been set on this ice, with the crisp and cold air said to contribute to its great conditions. The rink is open all year; skating in the summer runs 1500 tenge (US$3) per hour and 2400 tenge (US$5) per hour in winter. Skate rentals are typically about 1000 tenge (US$2).

Detour: Nearby is the famous, stamina-building, 842-step “Health Ladder,” atop which a magnificent view of the mountains awaits.

A diverse crowd of fans await performances at a music festival on Abay Square, in front of the Palace of the Republic, in Almaty, Kazakhstan
Concerts take place all the time at the imposing Palace of the Republic – and sometimes spill out into Abay Square outside. Roman Chekhovskoi/Shutterstock

10. Attend a concert in a Soviet-era palace

Built in the ’70s, the imposing Palace of the Republic is Almaty’s main concert hall and a great place to catch a Kazakh folk or classical-music performance. Built to host party meetings and union rallies as well as concerts, today it also serves as a venue for conferences and other gatherings. In the summer, outdoor festivals such as the Spirit of Tengri spill out of the palace and into the square. 

Alternatively, try to get tickets for a concert at the Zhambyl Kazakh State Philharmonic, a venue with a cozier, more classic vibe.

Local tip: The Museum of Folk Musical Instruments off Panfilov Square occasionally organizes traditional music concerts as well.

11. Catch an Uyghur-language performance

If you prefer your performing arts with some lively staging, don’t miss a performance at the Uighur Theatre. Shows range from contemporary plays and musical comedies to classic dramas, all performed in the Uyghur language. While you may not follow everything, you’ll be in for a memorable experience indeed.

Planning tip: The Uyghur people represent an important minority in Almaty since the 1800s. On Yassawi St in the neighborhood of Druzhba, you can find many restaurants serving Uighur lagman, a hearty dish of noodles, meat and veggies. 

A mural depicting the singer Dimash on a street with trees with cars in the background in Almaty, Kazakhstan
Street art is all around in Almaty – if you know where to look. Shutterstock

12. Admire all the street art 

Architecturally, Almaty offers many surprises: towering domes, Soviet apartment blocks and glittering skyscrapers. Adorning many of these buildings is a range of street art, which isn’t to be missed; the Golden Quarter is the center of the scene. While large-scale murals were a staple of Soviet city planning, a new breed of artist has taken up the tradition in the past 15 years or so. Designs incorporating nomadic motifs and Central Asian animals are common – with more –subversive themes popping up from time to time, like messages hidden in ancient glyphs.

Planning tip: Walking Almaty offers excellent street-art tours – expertise well worth the price. 

This article was first published Feb 25, 2020 and updated Oct 7, 2024.

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