Armenia

Leave your preconceptions at home, because Yerevan (ԵՐԵՎԱՆ) will almost certainly confound them. This is a city of contradictions – top-of-the-line Mercedes sedans share the roads with Ladas so old they should be in museum collections; traditional pandoks (taverns) serving khoravats (barbecue meats) and oghee (fruit vodka) sit next to chic European-style wine bars; and street fashions range from hipster to babushka with many weird and wonderful variations in between. In summer, locals take to the streets every night, claiming tables at the city's many outdoor cafes, sauntering along its tree-filled boulevards and congregating at the beloved musical fountain in Republic Sq. Few traces of the city's ancient past remain, usurped by Soviet-era buildings and modern structures with little regard for history. But wander into any dalan (archway) and enter a portal into a different world – you may find a gorgeous 19th-century balcony or beautiful church beyond.

Founded by Bishop Hovhannes in 1205 and sensitively renovated in the 1990s, Noravank (New Monastery) is one of the most spectacular sites in Armenia and should be included on every visitor's itinerary. Around sunset, the reddish hues of the dramatic cliffs surrounding the monastery are accentuated by the setting sun, and the reddish-gold stone of its churches acquire a luminous sheen – it's a totally magnificent sight.

This newly built and helpful tourist information centre has maps and can assist with planning hikes. Gear is available to rent at affordable prices including walking poles, sleeping bags, snowshoes and bikes.

Named after the lance that pierced Christ’s side at the crucifixion (a shard is now on display at the museum in Etchmiadzin), this World Heritage–listed monastery is carved out of a cliff alongside the Azat River Gorge. Founded in the 4th century, the monastery's oldest chapel dates back to the 12th century and its tremendously atmospheric Surp Astvatsatsin (Holy Mother of God Church) dates from 1215. The cathedral features wonderful carvings and its surrounding chapels make for terrific exploring.

Prominently located on the main highway, Hin Areni is a professional outfit that produces a quaffable red using Areni grapes and a dry white using voskehat (golden seed) grapes; both varieties are grown in nearby vineyards. The factory can be visited on a short tour that is best taken in late September and early October during the grape harvest.

This canyon manages to pack in more history and culture than anywhere else in the country. Nearly every village along the Debed River has a church, a chapel, an old fort and a sprinkling of khachkars somewhere nearby. Two World Heritage–listed monasteries, Haghpat and Sanahin, are the main attractions, but there's much more to see. Derelict Soviet-era infrastructure is sadly noticeable along the riverbank, but the scenery is quite idyllic elsewhere.

The road through the canyon is busy, as this is the main artery linking Armenia with Georgia. Tourist facilities include the excellent Tufenkian hotel and restaurant in Dzoraget and a scattering of B&Bs in the villages. Ramshackle roadside khoravats stands are almost the only eating options outside the B&Bs, but in summer fresh fruits, including delectable berries, are sold by the side of the main road.

The canyon is best explored by car. Those using public transport should be able to travel between Alaverdi and most of the villages by marshrutka, but services vary in frequency and rarely operate on Sundays. Sanahin is easily reached by cable car from Alaverdi, and there are regular marshrutky to Haghpat and Odzun. There is one marshrutka per day to Akhtala, and one or two buses travel between Dsegh and Vanadzor most days. Hitchhikers should have no problem sourcing lifts on the main highway, but lifts on village roads are few and far between.

The tiny rural village of Tatev is perched on a plateau overlooking the Vorotan River and has jaw-dropping views over the peaks to Karabakh. In the 13th century, the town was the political centre of the region, controlling 680 villages. These days, it's known for its famous medieval monastery and the Wings of Tatev Aerial Tramway, the longest nonstop reversible cable car in the world.