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A large, prosperous coastal city, Quy Nhon (pronounced ‘hwee ngon’) boasts a terrific beach-blessed shoreline and grand boulevards. Its seaside appeal and tidy, litter-free streets make it the kind of place that affluent Vietnamese couples choose to retire to, spending their final days ocean-gazing and promenade-walking.
The city is certainly a good spot to sample some fresh seafood, but for most foreign visitors its attractions are less obvious. But change is occurring – a crop of new cafes and bars has injected a dose of cosmopolitan cool, and Quy Nhon is steadily shaking off its somewhat staid reputation.
Quy Nhon is also the main gateway to lovely Bai Xep, a pretty cove beach 13km to the south where there's a collection of fine guesthouses popular with independent travellers.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Quy Nhon.
Historic Site
Leprosy may not conjure up images of fun in the sun, but this really is a lovely shoreside spot. A former leper hospital, today it's more of a dermatology clinic, and encompasses a model village. There are not so many patients here these days, but the descendants of affected families continue to live together here in a well-kept community. Fronting the village is Quy Hoa Beach, a lovely stretch of sand and a popular weekend hang-out.
Beach
The long sweep of Quy Nhon’s beachfront extends from the port in the northeast to distant wooded hills in the south. It’s a beautiful stretch of sand and has been given a major facelift in recent years. There's little rubbish in evidence and good swimming at the southern end.
Museum
This small museum concentrates on regional history and has some superb Cham sculpture. The entry hall focuses on local communism, while the room to the left has a natural-history section and exhibits devoted to tribal culture. Impressive Cham relics fill the rear room, including an astonishing 12th-century statue of the Goddess Mahishasuramardini. The room to the right is devoted to the American War.
Hindu Temple
This pair of Cham towers sits within the city limits in a pretty park. Steep steps lead up to the temples, which are open to the sky. Atypically for Cham architecture, they have curved pyramidal roofs rather than the usual terracing. The larger tower (20m tall) retains some of its ornate brickwork and remnants of the granite statuary that once graced its summit. The dismembered torsos of garuda (half-human, half-bird) can be seen at the corners of the roofs.
Beach
Backed by coastal cliffs, this drop-dead-gorgeous cove beach is 23km east of Quy Nhon. Ky Co's turquoise waters and fine pale sands have not gone unnoticed by the Instagram crowd, and it's wildly popular with day-tripping domestic tourists, so visit early or late in the day if possible. Note that access is tricky: from the car park above the beach via 4WD shuttle (60,000d per person), or on foot.
Buddhist Temple
It’s hard to miss the 17m-high Buddha (built in 1972) heralding Quy Nhon’s main pagoda, set back from the road by 143 Ð Tran Cao Van. The pagoda was founded in 1715 by a Chinese merchant, and the monks who reside here preside over the religious affairs of the city’s active Buddhist community. Mosaic dragons with manes of broken glass lead up to the main building, flanked by towers sheltering a giant drum (on the left) and an enormous bell.
Beach
This little stony beach at the foot of Ganh Rang was once a favourite holiday spot of Queen Nam Phuong. There's a cafe and great views back over Quy Nhon. To get here, take Ð An Duong Vuong to the far south end of Quy Nhon's beachfront and continue as the road starts to climb. After it crosses a small bridge, pay the entrance fee. It's accessible by bicycle or xe om (motorbike taxi; 20,000d).
Buddhist Statue
Located 25km north of Quy Nhon, the biggest seated Buddha in Southeast Asia enjoys a commanding hillside location with sweeping sea views. Access is via a vertiginous 600-step pathway lined with 18 arhats.