New Hampshire

Purists walk and the lazy drive, but the quaintest way to reach Mt Washington's summit is via this cog railway. Since 1869 coal-fired, steam-powered locomotives have climbed a scenic 3.5-mile track up the mountainside (three hours round trip). Two of these old-fashioned trains run daily June to October. The steam trains are supplemented by faster, cleaner, biodiesel-fueled trains. Reservations recommended.

Hanover is the quintessential New England college town. On warm days, students toss Frisbees on the wide college green fronting Georgian ivy-covered buildings, while locals and academics mingle at the laid-back cafes, restaurants and shops lining Main St. Dartmouth College has long been the town's focal point, giving the area a vibrant connection to the arts.

Dartmouth was chartered in 1769 primarily 'for the education and instruction of Youth of the Indian Tribes.' Back then, the school was located in the forests where its prospective students lived. Although teaching 'English Youth and others' was its secondary purpose, in fact, Dartmouth College graduated few Native Americans and was soon attended almost exclusively by colonists. The college's most illustrious alumnus is Daniel Webster (1782–1852), who graduated in 1801 and went on to be a prominent lawyer, US senator, secretary of state and perhaps the USA's most esteemed orator.

Established by dedicated volunteers in 1995, this historic trail links a series of sites connected with the African American experience in Portsmouth. Bronze plaques commemorate nearly four centuries of black history, from the arrival of the first enslaved people at Portsmouth's Prescott Park wharf in the 1680s to the formation of the local civil rights group Scorr in the 1960s.

A gateway to mountain adventure, North Conway is a bustling one-street town lined with motor inns, camping supply stores and other outfits designed with the traveler in mind. Although most people are just passing through, North Conway does have its charm, with a pleasant selection of restaurants, cozy cafes and nearby inns with historical allure. A popular and well-kept outlet mall also draws visitors.

One of New Hampshire's prettiest driving routes, the winding 34.5-mile Kancamagus Hwy (NH 112) between Lincoln and Conway runs right through the WMNF and over Kancamagus Pass (2855ft). Paved only in 1964, and still unspoiled by commercial development, the 'Kanc' offers easy access to US Forest Service (USFS) campgrounds, hiking trails and fantastic scenery.

The route is named for Chief Kancamagus (The Fearless One), who assumed the powers of sagamore (leader) of the Penacook Native American tribe around 1684. He was the final sagamore, succeeding his grandfather, the great Passaconaway, and his uncle Wonalancet. Kancamagus tried to maintain peace between the indigenous peoples and European explorers and settlers, but the newcomers pushed his patience past breaking point. He finally resorted to battle to rid the region of Europeans, but in 1691 he and his followers were forced to escape northward.

Picturesque Peterborough is a charming village of redbrick houses and tree-lined streets, with the idyllic Nubanusit River coursing through its historic center. Nestled between Temple Mountain and Mt Monadnock, Peterborough is a gateway to some captivating countryside, and its restaurants and B&Bs draw plenty of visitors in their own right.

Peterborough is also a thriving arts community, an impression left deeply by the nearby MacDowell Colony. Founded in the early 1900s, the country's oldest art colony has attracted a diverse and dynamic group of poets, composers, playwrights, architects, filmmakers, painters and photographers. Aaron Copland composed parts of Appalachian Spring at the colony; Virgil Thomson worked on Mother of Us All; Leonard Bernstein completed his Mass; and Thornton Wilder wrote Our Town, a play that was openly inspired by Peterborough. Milton Avery, James Baldwin, Barbara Tuchman and Alice Walker are among the luminaries that have passed this way.

A picturesque covered bridge welcomes guests to Jackson, a quintessential New England village and home to Mt Washington Valley's premier cross-country ski center. Packed tight with quaint but welcoming inns and several acclaimed restaurants, it's a recommended home base for exploring the White Mountains. And the aforementioned bridge? Dubbed the Honeymoon Bridge, it dates from 1876.

Glen, a hamlet 3 miles south of Jackson, is a magnet for families as it's home to one of New Hampshire's most popular amusement parks, Story Land.

Northwest of Lake Winnipesaukee, Squam Lake is more tranquil, more tasteful and more pristine than its big sister. It is also less accessible, lacking any public beaches. Nonetheless, if you choose your lodging carefully, you can enjoy Squam Lake's natural wonders, just like Katharine Hepburn and Henry Fonda did in the 1981 film On Golden Pond. With 67 miles of shoreline and 67 islands, there are plenty of opportunities for fishing, kayaking and swimming.

Holderness is the area's main town, at the southwest corner of Squam Lake. Little Squam Lake is a much smaller branch further southwest.

Franconia Notch, a narrow gorge shaped over the eons by a wild stream cutting through craggy granite, is a dramatic mountain pass. This was long the residence of the beloved Old Man of the Mountain, a natural rock formation that became the symbol of the Granite State. Sadly, the Old Man collapsed in 2003, though that does not stop tourists from coming to see the featureless cliff that remains. Despite the Old Man's absence, the attractions of Franconia Notch are many, from the dramatic hike down the Flume Gorge to the fantastic views of the Presidential Range.

The most scenic parts of the notch are protected by the narrow Franconia Notch State Park. Reduced to two lanes, I-93 (renamed the Franconia Notch Pkwy) squeezes through the gorge. Services are available in Lincoln and North Woodstock to the south and in Franconia and Littleton to the north.