Tunis

This sprawling maze of ancient streets and alleyways is one of the most impressive medieval medinas in North Africa and one of Tunisia's great treasures. It's home to numerous covered souqs selling everything from shoes to shisha pipes, as well as bustling cafes, back streets full of artisans at work and residential areas punctuated by grand, brightly painted doorways. Historic palaces, hammams, mosques and madrassas (schools for study of the Quran) are scattered throughout, many lavishly decorated with tiles, carved stucco and marble columns.

The main draw at the Tunisia's top museum is its magnificent collection of Roman mosaics. These provide a vibrant and fascinating portrait of ancient North African life. Also here is some equally magnificent Hellenistic and Punic statuary. The massive collection is housed in an imposing palace complex built under the Hafsids (1228–1574), and fortified and extended by the Ottomans in the 18th century. The original palace buildings now connect with a dramatic contemporary annexe, which has doubled the exhibition space.

With its distinctive blue-and-white colour scheme, cobbled streets and jaw-dropping glimpses of azure waters, the cliff-top village of Sidi Bou Saïd is one of the prettiest spots in Tunisia. Named after a 13th-century Sufi saint, its distinctive architecture is a mix of the Ottoman and the Andalusian, a result of the influx of Spanish Muslims in the 16th century. For the French, the sleepy fishing village was a perfect depiction of the Orientalism romanticised by Europeans in the 19th century, and they committed to ensuring that its character – both real and imagined – was preserved (it was given protected status in 1915). Past residents and visitors include artist Paul Klee, author André Gide, philosopher Michel Foucault, and arty British eccentrics Osbert and Edith Sitwell. It still retains a sense of North African fantasia today, both for visitors and interestingly enough, for Tunisians themselves.

In Punic times, Byrsa Hill was occupied by a temple to the Carthaginian god Eschmoun. The Romans destroyed most of the Punic structures – all that remains is a small, well-preserved section of a residential quarter dating from the time of Hannibal (around the 3rd century BC). It's still possible to discern a street grid dotted with small, carefully planned domestic structures – some of which were once five storeys high – complete with subterranean cisterns and ground-floor shops.

Tunisian food markets offer a great introduction to local culture, and Tunis' Marché Centrale is particularly atmospheric. The original market building dates from 1891 and the halls behind are later additions. There are three distinct areas: an enormous fish hall where you can watch locally caught fish being theatrically weighed, gutted and scaled; a central hall where mounds of spicy harissa, tubs of plump olives and blocks of pungent cheese are sold; and a rear fruit and vegetable section.