Trang’s beaches are mostly just jumping-off points to the Trang Islands and are rather scruffy. But the scenery around them is dramatic: limestone karsts rising from steamy palm-studded valleys and swirling seas. Much of it is inside the Hat Chao Mai National Park, which covers a big stretch of the Trang coastline as well as including two of the Trang Islands – Ko Muk and Ko Kradan – and many tiny islets. And it is the Trang Islands which are the real draw here: covered in verdant jungle and lined with pure white sand beaches, they are a less developed than other Andaman islands and have far smaller populations. This is real honeymooners territory – there's very little nightlife – so don't come here if you want to party all night long.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Trang Beaches & Islands.
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A beautiful limestone tunnel leads 80m into a cave on Ko Muk's west coast. No wonder pirates buried treasure here. You have to swim through the tunnel, part of the way in darkness, before exiting at a small white-sand beach surrounded by lofty limestone walls. A piercing shaft of light illuminates it at around noon. National park fees (adult/child 200/100B) apply.
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This 231-sq-km park covers the shoreline from Hat Pak Meng to Laem Chao Mai, and encompasses the islands of Ko Muk, Ko Kradan and Ko Cheuk (plus a host of small islets). While touring the coast and islands, you may spot endangered dugongs and rare black-necked storks, as well as more common species such as barking deer, sea otters, macaques, langurs, wild pigs, pangolins, little herons, Pacific reef egrets, white-bellied sea eagles and monitor lizards.
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This large mangrove area on Ko Libong's east coast at Laem Ju Hoi is protected by the Botanical Department. The sea channels are one of the last habitats of the endangered dugong: over 100 graze on the sea grass that flourishes in the bay. Most of Ko Libong's resorts offer dugong-spotting boat tours, led by trained naturalists, for 1000B to 2000B.
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A short signposted track at the south end of the main beach leads past the Paradise Lost guesthouse and over the ridge to Hat Sunset, a mostly wet and rocky patch of sand facing open seas and flaming-pink sunsets. However, the west side of the island is strewn with plastic and garbage washed in from the sea.
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Motoring into green-clad Ko Muk and landing on the sugary white sandbar of Hat Sivalai is a great way to start your stay. The slender beach runs to an arrow-like point at its far end, where you'll find Ko Muk's poshest resorts.
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Turquoise water kisses a lovely, crescent-shaped beach overlooked by thickly forested hillsides at Hat Farang, also known as Hat Sai Yao but more usually as Charlie Beach.
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The small karst islet of Ko Cheuk sits between Ko Muk and Ko Ngai. It has a small and slender sandy beach and is good for snorkelling.
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Humble, local-flavoured Hat Lodung is a short walk from the main pier, on Ko Muk's eastern side. If you're facing the sea, Hat Lodung is left of the pier beyond a stilt village and some mangroves. The beach isn't as nice as Hat Farang or Hat Sivalai – it does get lapped by murky backwash from the mainland mangrove villages – but it's OK.