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If there is one road in Central Asia that captures the imagination above all others it’s the M41, better known as the Pamir Highway (Памирское шоссе). Technically, the M41 and the Pamir Hwy are not identical thoroughfares: the M41 starts from Dushanbe and extends to the Kyrgyzstan border. The Pamir Hwy, by contrast, refers to a section of the M41 that runs only between Khorog and Osh. But who cares about the technicalities! The route, by whatever name it’s given, is famous for a reason. Whether bending along the hem of Tajikistan, following the Pyanj River, or winding across remote high-altitude pastures, this highway is one of the most spectacular in the world. Built by Soviet military engineers between 1931 and 1934 to facilitate troop transport and provisioning, it’s the world’s second highest road and, in all its potholed, yak-used glory, is a major highlight of visits to the region.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout The Pamir Highway.
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With any luck, there will be enough light left in the day after any delays crossing the Shurabad Pass to enjoy the first glimpse of the raging Pyanj River – a constant companion throughout a Pamir Hwy journey – at this viewpoint on the zigzag descent from Kulob to the Pyanj valley. The road eventually glides down to the water's edge and threads through the canyon-like landscape, with only the river dividing Tajikistan from Afghanistan.
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Mirrorlike lake Bulun-Kul (3737m) looks magnificent in the morning light, reflecting the mineral streaks of a low, multicoloured ridge opposite. The water's edge invites a picnic but the bitter wind and tiny fire ants, which make a beeline for uncovered skin, mean it's better observed on the hoof. Close by, the end-of-the-world settlement of Bulunkul (Булункӯл) – reportedly the coldest place in Tajikistan – offers ways in which to connect with the lakes through horse riding and hikes (enquire at the Monira Homestay).
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It’s hard to believe that Khorog’s Central Park was dug up to grow crops during the famine of the 1990s. It has since been renovated by the Aga Khan Trust for Culture and is now a delightful place to read a book or take a riverside stroll. The PECTA tourist information centre is at the park's edge.
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Perhaps the most appealing stretch of the A385 is between Rogak and Khostov (after the popular Yakhchi Hisor roadside springs). From this vantage point it's possible to peer across the Pyanj River to admire a picturesque village on the Afghan side with a series of houses perched on rocky riverside outcrops.
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Destroyed by the Mongols, the sparse remnants of this fortified palace have been undergoing excavation since 1951 and now a fine reconstruction of the palace walls, complete with minaret and battlements, has been completed. Seen from the main road driving east, it seems to loom out of nowhere (8km west of Vose) and is an impressive sight. It's not possible to enter the ruins but a small museum opposite offers some helpful interpretation including a large model of the site.
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Soviet archaeologists apparently took shelter in the caves at Shakty (Шахты; 4200m) during a storm one night in 1958, only to awake the next morning to the perfectly preserved red-ink paintings of a boar hunt (and strange bird man). Visitors are asked to keep a distance from these Neolithic paintings to avoid damaging them. The cave, a five-minute scramble uphill, is impossible to find without a knowledgeable driver/guide. The site is 50km southwest of Murgab (25km off the Pamir Hwy) in the dramatic Kurteskei Valley.
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At the entrance to the Shokh Dara Valley, 5km east of town, this arboretum encompasses a couple of hundred hectares of parkland and is claimed to be the world’s second-highest botanical garden. In addition to the mature trees, there is a fine collection of regionally occurring plants but the stock is somewhat overgrown as if nature, in an effort to make the most of the short spring, has outrun the gardeners. A perfect place for a picnic nonetheless.
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Set within a traditional walled enclosure and now protected within an octagonal cover added in the 1990s, this is one of several authentic ancient Ismaili shrines in the Shokh Dara Valley. It's possible to enter the enclosure with its ibex horn decorations and covered tomb, although discretion is required as locals still come to pay their respects here.
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Although salty, lake Kara-Kul is frozen and snow-covered until May but throughout the summer this huge lake is transformed into a beautiful, sky-blue lozenge that changes colour with depth. An attempt by META to declare it the world's highest navigable lake, beating Lake Titicaca, is not likely to succeed but a jetty erected a few years ago has enabled summer boat trips to the island and is the launching point for the Roof of the World Regatta.
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