Northern Mallorca

The most dramatic stretch of Mallorca’s coast, Cap de Formentor is an otherworldly domain of razor-edge cliffs and wind-buckled limestone peaks jutting far out to sea; from a distance, it looks like an epic line of waves about to break.

Pollença is beautiful. On a late summer afternoon, when its stone houses glow in the fading light, cicadas strike up their tentative drone and the burble of chatter floats from cafe terraces lining the Placa Major, the town is like the Mallorca you always hoped you would discover. Its postcard looks and vaguely bohemian air have drawn artists, writers and luminaries from Winston Churchill to Agatha Christie over the years. Saunter through its gallery and boutique-lined backstreets or pull up a ringside chair on the square at sundown to watch the world go by and you too will be smitten. Even better, check into one of Pollença's lovely hotels and overnight here to make the most of its historic charm.

• Start Ermita de La Victòria
• Finish Penya Rotja
• Length 6km; 2½–3 hours

One of Mallorca's most dramatic and exciting coastal walks, this medium-level hike takes you along precipitous ridges and cliff tops to three crags, perched like eyries above the Cap des Pinar peninsula. Look out for the Mallorcan wild goat (Capra ageagrus hircus) that inhabits these rocky heights. It's wise to avoid the midday heat and take a map and plenty of water. Make sure you wear sturdy shoes, too.

From the Ermita de la Victòria hermitage, head up the hill along the wide path through the pine forest, passing the signposted Ses Tres Creus – three crosses among the trees, overlooking the Badia de Pollença. Turn left after around 15 minutes, following signs to Penya Rotja and Penya des Migdia, onto a narrow footpath (don't follow the signs for Talaia d'Alcúdia, which is another hike), which wends uphill through woods, then gently downhill (watch out for roots across the way that can trip you up). Pause for sensational Badia de Pollença and Formentor views to the west. Sheer cliffs now rise above you and the sea glints far below. Pass overhanging cliffs and at a fork in the path, veer right and follow cairns uphill to crest Puig des Romaní (387m) after 1½ hours, where a superb panorama awaits.

From the summit, return to the main trail, which descends gradually along a ridge as it skirts a bluff, with the cliffs to your left falling away sharply. Squeeze through a vertiginous tunnel that burrows through the rock. Entering old coastal fortifications with gun emplacements, follow the path that skirts the knife-edge cliff face, using the fixed rope to negotiate the steepest parts, to reach the top of Penya Rotja (354m) after 1½ hours. Topped by a cannon, the 360-degree lookout takes in the full sweep of Mallorca's north coast, reaching across Cap des Pinar to the Badia d'Alcúdia, Pollença and Formentor.

An optional boulder-strewn scramble takes you up to the cannon atop Canó des Moró (355m), where you'll most probably be alone with the goats, wild rosemary and striking views across the peninsula to the cobalt waters pummelling Platja des Coll Baix far below. Retrace your steps along the same path back to Ermita de La Victòria.

South of Pollença, off the Ma2200, one of Mallorca's most tortuous roads bucks and weaves up 1.5km of gasp-out-loud hairpin bends to this 14th-century former nunnery, which sits atop 333m Puig de Maria. If you come pilgrim style (the best way), the stiff hike through woods of holm oak, pine and olive will take you around an hour – Pollença shrinks to toytown scale as you near the summit. Be sure to avoid the midday heat and pack some water.

One of the loveliest little corners of the northern Mallorcan coast, Cala Sant Vicenç is arrayed around four jewel-like cales (coves) in a breach in the Serra de Tramuntana, with fine views across stunning turquoise waters northwest towards the sheer limestone cliffs of Cap de Formentor. The village is really only open for business from May to October, then largely shuts up shop.

The 688-hectare Parc Natural de S’Albufera, west of the Ma12 between Port d’Alcúdia and Ca’n Picafort, is prime birdwatching territory, with 303 recorded species (more than 80% of recorded Balearic species), 64 of which breed within the park’s boundaries. More than 10,000 birds overwinter here, among them both residents and migrants. Entrance to the park is free, but permits must be obtained from the visitor centre, which is a 1km walk from the entrance gates on the main road.

Just a few kilometres inland from the coast, Alcúdia is a town of quiet charm and character, ringed by mighty medieval walls that enclose a maze of narrow lanes, historic mansions, cafe-rimmed plazas and warm-stone houses. On the fringes of town are the captivating remains of Pollèntia, once the island’s prime Roman settlement.

Draped along the northeastern corner of the Badia d'Alcúdia, Port d’Alcúdia is a very busy beach-holiday centre with a more appealing waterfront, marina and fishing harbour. Dotted with palms, its gently sloping, fine-sand beach has shallow water and plenty of activities geared towards families.

It's a fantastic ramble to Platja des Coll Baix – and what a bay! Snug below sheer, wooded cliffs, this shimmering crescent of pale pebbles and translucent water is soul-stirring stuff. The catch: it's only accessible on foot or by boat. Come in the early morning or evening to see it at its peaceful best. From Alcúdia, it's about 8km to an open spot in the woods where you can park. Follow the purple road signs for the Museo Sa Bassa Blanca, aka Fundación Yannick y Ben Jakober, and keep on for another 2km.

Around 5km south of Port d'Alcúdia (on the bus line to Ca'n Picafort), Platja de Muro is a long, alluring stretch of sand, with extensive blue views of the Badia d'Alcúdia. The setting, with pale, soft sand backed by pines and the dunes of the Parc Natural de S'Albufera, is a winner. The water is shallow and azure, but crowds can get intense in summer. The beach is named after the delightful hilltop town of Muro, around 8km off to the west.