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Gyeonggi-do (경기도), its name literally meaning the 'province surrounding Seoul', is the most populous province in Korea, encompassing some 28 cities that often feel like extended suburbs of the capital. But start to explore a little and you'll find pockets of fascinating history, public art, hilltop hiking and much more, all within easy access of Seoul.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Gyeonggi-do.
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The World Heritage–listed fortress wall that encloses the original town of Suwon is what brings most travellers to the city. Snaking up and down Paldal-san (143m), the fortification wall stretches a scenic 5.7km past four majestic gates, command posts, pavilions, observation towers and fire-beacon platforms. Built by King Jeongjo and completed in 1796, it was constructed of earth and faced with large stone blocks and grey bricks, nearly all of which have been restored.
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Unquestionably the highlight of any trip to the DMZ is the Joint Security Area (JSA) at Panmunjeom. An improbable tourist destination, it's here where the infamous Military Demarcation Line separates South and North Korea. Soldiers from both sides often stand metres apart eyeballing one another from their respective sides of the blue-painted UN buildings. You'll be taken inside the meeting room – where the 1953 truce was signed – the only place where you can safely walk into North Korea.
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Granite-peak-studded Bukhansan National Park's sweeping mountaintop vistas, maple leaves, rushing streams and remote temples draw over 5 million hikers and rock climbers annually. Even though the park covers nearly 80 sq km, it's so close to Seoul (45 minutes by subway) that it does get crowded, especially on weekends. The park is divided into the Bukhan-san area in the south and Dobong-san area in the north, each featuring multiple scenic – but strenuous – hikes to mountain peaks. Bring plenty of water.
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Opened in 1976, Everland is Korea's largest theme park, with five zones of rides, fantasy buildings and impressive seasonal gardens. The lush hillside setting, 40km south of Seoul, is part of the appeal. Thrill-seekers will want to head straight to T Express, a gargantuan wooden roller coaster added in 2008 that boasts a 45m near-vertical drop. But its the littler kids who'll find the most fun here, with gentle rides, animal attractions, shows and two parades daily.
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This retirement home around 50km south-east of Seoul is still inhabited by a declining handful of women, now mostly in their 90s, who were forced to work in Japanese military brothels across Asia before and during WWII. The attached museum details their plight through testimonies, artworks and videos. 'Comfort women' is the euphemism coined by the Japanese military for these women, 70% of whom were Korean. Here, they prefer the respectful term halmoni, which means grandmother.
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The largest and most attractive of the World Heritage–listed royal tombs scattered around Seoul and Gyeonggi-do, Donggureung is the burial place of seven kings and 10 queens from the Joseon dynasty. The tombs are set over 196 hectares of forested paths, and it takes around 1½ hours to explore the site in its entirety. It's located 20km north-east of central Seoul in Guri.
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The World Heritage–listed fortress of Namhansanseong (남한산성 도립공원), 20km south-east of central Seoul, once guarded the city’s southern entrance. Today it's famous for hiking trails which hug the 17th-century fortress walls, of which 12.3km still remain, taking you through beautiful pine and oak forests, and wild flowers. Your first stop should be Namhansanseong Emergency Palace, the beautifully reconstructed complex of the king's quarters, which also has a hiking map of the fortress.
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This 245-acre themed experience is designed to transport you back to the Joseon dynasty as you wander through picturesque grounds filled with thatched and tiled buildings relocated here from around Korea. Performers wearing hanbok (traditional clothing) craft pots and handmake paper, while others tend to vegetable plots and livestock. Throughout the day there are shows by traditional musicians, dancers, acrobats and tightrope walkers, and you can watch a staged wedding ceremony.
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If you're partial to a day out at a winery, brewery or distillery, mixed in with a bit of culture amid nature, then a day trip to Sansawon Brewery & Museum could be for you. A producer of traditional Korean alcohol, Sansawon is all about high-quality, chemical-free soju (local vodka) and makgeolli and other rice wines; far removed from the nasty hangovers you can get from convenience-store booze. For ₩2000 you get a sampler and shot glass for unlimited tasting.
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