Eastern Cape

This shipwreck-strewn coastline rivals any in the country in terms of beauty and wilderness, stretching over 350km from just east of East London to Port Edward. Often referred to as the ‘Transkei’ (the name of the apartheid-era homeland that once covered most of this area), the Wild Coast region also stretches inland, covering pastoral landscapes where clusters of rondavels (round huts with a conical roofs) scatter the rolling hills covered in short grass.

The local Xhosa people have a reputation for friendliness, and you might be invited inside a home. In this land of far-flung river estuaries and backpackers resembling Xhosa settlements, numerous outdoor activities and cultural tours are on offer. In June and July, the Wild Coast is prime territory for the natural phenomenon known as the 'sardine run', an absolute highlight on the marine calendar which attracts divers and snorkellers from all over the world.

The park’s most popular sight, the Valley of Desolation is a hauntingly beautiful valley with outstanding views – the rugged, piled dolerite columns are set against the backdrop of the endless Karoo plains. From the nearby Toposcope viewpoint, Graaff-Reinet is also visible, nestled in a bend of the Sundays River. The valley viewpoint, 14km from town, can be reached by car on a sealed road. The Crag Lizard Trail, a 1.5km circuit walk along the cliff, starts from the parking area.

Located 70km north of Port Elizabeth, South Africa's third-largest national park protects the remnants of the huge elephant herds that once roamed the Eastern Cape. When Addo was proclaimed a national park in 1931, there were only 11 elephants left; today there are more than 600 in the park, and you’d be unlucky not to see some.

There’s something about Hogsback that inspires people. An Edenic little village 1300m up in the beautiful Amathole Mountains above Alice, the village’s name is derived from the ‘bristles’ (known geologically as a ‘hogsback’) that cover peaks of the surrounding hills.

Artists, poets, alternative therapists and other like-minded folk have helped create an environmentally inclined community here – an easy sensibility to adopt with fabulous views of mountains and forested valleys. The town’s climate and history of green-fingered English settlers mean it’s blessed with gorgeous (though seasonal) market-garden estates. Expect occasional snowfall and freezing temperatures in winter. Locals will tell you that JRR Tolkien, who lived in Bloemfontein until he was three, visited Hogsback, sowing the seed of his fantastical novels. That is extremely unlikely, but the area may well have inspired him via his son Christopher, who came here while stationed in South Africa with the British Royal Air Force.

Hidden in the deep Karoo, the tiny village of Nieu Bethesda has gained some attention for its extraordinary Owl House – the fantastically and unnervingly decorated home of ‘outsider’ artist, Helen Martins. These days, the village is a minor artistic colony, with creative cred added by The Road to Mecca, Athol Fugard's play about Martins.

With its dirt roads, water furrows, pretty cottages and endless stars, Nieu Bethesda is a great place to experience life in a Karoo village, unwind for a few days and reconnect with nature. Most visitors drive from Graaff-Reinet, about 55km to the south – the route is very scenic, with the Sneeuberg range dominating the region.

Cut through by dark, coffee-coloured churning rivers, deep ravines and dense forests, the Tsitsikamma section of the Garden Route National Park encompasses 650 sq km between Plettenberg Bay and Humansdorp, as well a Marine Protected Area covering 80km of coastline. Elusive Cape clawless otters, after which the Otter Trail (a multiday hike) is named, inhabit this park; there are also baboons, monkeys, small antelope and furry little dassies. Birdlife is plentiful, including endangered African black oystercatchers.

Once just a sleepy seaside town, ‘J-Bay’ is now one of the world’s top surfing destinations. It’s certainly South Africa’s foremost centre of surfing and surf culture. Boardies from all over the planet flock here to ride waves such as the famous Supertubes, generally rated as one of the world's most perfect waves. June to September are the best months for experienced surfers, but novices can learn at any time of year. If you don't surf, or want something different, there are plenty of other water sports on offer. And if all you want to do is recharge the batteries, a couple of superb expanses of white sand beckon.

Deep in the southern Drakensberg, in a spectacular valley setting alongside the Bell River, the little village of Rhodes is a lovely bucolic escape that's well worth the detour. The architecture remains as it was when the town was established in 1891 as a base for agriculture and commerce. In this mountain outpost, all four seasons can be experienced in a single day, and extremes are not uncommon – temperatures have reached -15°C in winter and 35°C in summer.

The sardine run is one of the most spectacular natural phenomena on earth. It usually occurs between mid-June and mid- to late July, when massive schools of sardines migrate from the colder water around the Cape to the warmer waters of KwaZulu-Natal to spawn. They are closely followed by an array of predators, including Cape gannets, huge pods of dolphins, various species of sharks and massive Bryde whales, all eager to feed on these massive shoals, which creates incredible marine action in less than 10m of water. The thrill is unforgettable. Some say it's the marine equivalent of the famous Masai Mara wildebeest migration in East Africa.

A number of reputable operators, including Pro Dive and Offshore Africa, offer multiday sardine run packages along the Wild Coast. A few popular bases include Chintsa, Morgan Bay and Port St Johns. Divers are taken to the action aboard inflatable boats; the highly skilled crew is in contact with a pilot who flies over the ocean in search of animal activity and gives direction. The boat carefully approaches the area where the action is, and divers are only allowed to slide into the water when its safe – they can then watch the sensational scene from a depth of approximately 5m to 7m. In fact, you don't even need to dive – a mask, snorkel and fins suffice. The activity can last anything from a few minutes to an hour or longer. You are frequently getting on and off the boat, which requires a certain level of fitness, and the water is chilly and the sea usually choppy. The excursion lasts about six to seven hours.

Note that sightings can't be guaranteed. One day might be very quiet while the next day can be extremely busy – it's important to remember that nature is ultimately unpredictable.