Belgrade

Some 115 battles have been fought over imposing, impressive Belgrade Fortress (aka Kalemegdan); the citadel was destroyed more than 40 times throughout the centuries. Fortifications began in Celtic times, and the Romans extended it onto the flood plains during the settlement of 'Singidunum', Belgrade's Roman name. Much of what stands today is the product of 18th-century Austro-Hungarian and Turkish reconstructions. The fort's bloody history, discernible despite today's jolly cafes and funfairs, only makes the fortress all the more fascinating.

This must-visit museum houses an invaluable collection of more than 200,000 artefacts representing the fascinating, tumultuous history of Yugoslavia. Photographs, artworks, historical documents, films, weapons, priceless treasure: it's all here. It can be a lot to take in; English-speaking guides are available if booked in advance via email, or you can join a free tour on weekends (11am in English, Serbian at noon). Marshal Tito's Mausoleum is also on the museum grounds; admission is included in the ticket price.

Looming over Belgrade and topped with the tallest tower in the Balkans (204.5m), Mt Avala is a city landmark that makes for a pleasant break from the capital's bustling streets. The broadcasting tower, originally completed in 1965 but levelled by NATO bombs in 1999, was rebuilt in 2010 and now offers picture-perfect panoramas over Belgrade and beyond from viewing platforms and a cafe. Nearby, the Monument to the Unknown Hero by Ivan Meštrović honours Serbian victims of WWI.

A local icon, Dva Jelena has been dishing up huge portions of hearty fare amid painted wood panelling, kitschy portraits and antique musical instruments for over 180 years. Rustic, homespun and with the obligatory violin serenades, it ticks all the Skadarlija boxes.

Belgrade is just the seventh city worldwide to receive one of Philippe Starck's whimsical designer Mama Shelter hotels – the city's hottest – this one sitting on prime real estate at the Belgrade Fortress end of Kneza Mihaila, on the top floor of the glitzy Rajićeva Shopping Centre.

A Savamala stalwart (it's been running since 2009), this wonderful warehouse space promotes local creativity with workshops, exhibitions, a restaurant and nightly music events.

Retro, run-down and loads of fun, this alternative splav (river-barge nightclub) is named for Belgrade's map coordinates. Open year-round, it has become an electronica reference for top European DJs – despite its shabby appearance. Swimming up from the back might be your easiest way in!

Belgrade is a tram fan's ultimate playground – the city is home to all manner of streetcar delights spanning a colourful arsenal of models (West German, Czechoslovakian, Swiss and Spanish) and eras. And while we wouldn't quite say it's as cinematic as Lisbon's famous Tram 28E, none of Belgrade's lines are more fascinating than Tram 2. The iconic, Czechoslovakian-built Tatra KT4 tram shakes, rattles and rolls along a circular route around Belgrade's Old Town, taking in some of the city's most iconic sights, neighbourhoods and architecture along the way – just as it did in the former Yugoslavia. The 17-stop, 8km ride takes in Brankov Most, the Belgrade Cooperative Building, Hotel Bristol and the former Central Train Station in Savamala; the bombed-out Yugoslavian Ministry of Defence and other historic government buildings along regal Kneza Miloša; and the imposing Belgrade Fortress near Dorćol, among other cinematic architectural gems. The full route takes about 40 minutes and costs 89RSD (Tram 2 drivers do not sell tickets on board).