San Juan & Around

A star of Old San Juan, brooding El Morro sits atop a headland, deterring would-be attackers. The 140ft walls (some up to 15ft thick) date to 1539 and it's said to be the oldest Spanish fort in the New World. Displays, a short video and weekend tours document the construction of the fort, which took almost 200 years, as well as its role in rebuffing attacks on the island by the British, the Dutch and, later, the US military.

This sheltered arc's raked sand, decent surf breaks, local action and a 17th-century Spanish fort shimmering in the distance are the hallmarks of what's considered San Juan's finest beach, with Blue Flag status and only a stone's throw from the old city and the busy tourist strip of Condado. Best of all, it's often uncrowded.

Old San Juan is a colorful kaleidoscope of life, music, legend and history. It's an unmissable sight, the crown jewel of Puerto Rico. From the blue-toned, cobblestoned streets to 400-plus historically listed buildings to the stunning ocean views, the visual treats seem boundless. Add to this the quarter’s sensuous yet subtle mood swings: tranquil at dawn, languid during the midday heat, romantic at dusk and positively ebullient after dark.

Mixing ancient with modern, Old San Juan lives for itself, never selling itself out as just another stop on an itinerary: listen to the creaking rocking chairs on Calle de Sol, the clatter of dominoes in La Bombonera or the powerful African drumming echoing around Plaza de Armas. Prepare to be surprised, entranced and delighted.

Santurce's famous market – La Placita – is also the hub of one of San Juan's hottest nightlife scenes. Especially good on Thursday and Friday nights, the historic market plaza and its surrounding streets host what becomes a veritable street party; people meeting up after work, eating, drinking and, as soon as the salsa band warms up, dancing until the early hours.

Head east from modern San Juan and you'll find pleasantly windswept Piñones, a series of natural beaches, forest walks in Bosque Estatal de Piñones, and lively seaside hangouts. Do as weekending sanjuaneros do and saunter Piñones' sandy curves backed by pine groves, swim in the reef-protected waters, nosh on seafood snacks and down coco frío (ice-cold coconut milk) at music-filled roadside stands.

Follow Rte 187 out of San Juan as it parallels the ocean and you'll know you're heading in the right direction at Punta Cangrejos, a small bridge marked by a sign saying ‘Bienvenidos a Boca de Cangrejos’ (Welcome to Crabmouth Point).

After the sign, you can veer off to the left to the top of the cliff overlooking the ocean; this is a popular drinking spot with fabulous views, especially at sunset. This also kicks off the run of restaurants and friquitines (also known as buréns in Piñones) – the food kiosks of all sizes that line the coastal road.

Enjoy handpicked coffee from various small farms in Puerto Rico's Central Mountains. Ask the baristas for recommendations – they have an encyclopedic knowledge of all things java. Pair your caffeine fix with a toasted brioche or a classic mallorca. There's indoor and outdoor seating, most with views of the bay.

Named after the first Puerto Rican to play in the major leagues (Chicago Cubs, 1942) this 18,000-seat baseball stadium is home to the Cangrejeros de Santurce, as well as concerts. It's around a 1.2-mile walk west from Roosevelt station.