For those in the know, this tiny beach east of Caniçal is the best outside Funchal. A romantically secluded suntrap, this wild arc of black sand is backed by cliffs under which there's a basic cafe. At high tide the water comes right up to the rocks leaving no sand – get there early and you'll have the place to yourself (for a while at least). There's parking on the clifftop and Caniçal buses stop here on request.

Lonely Planet's must-see attractions