A couple of kilometres beyond Daraga, you find the most classic of Bicol's panoramas: the stand-alone greenery-topped belfry of the sunken Cagsawa Church against the backdrop of Mt Mayon. Twelve hundred people took refuge here from divine wrath in the form of 1814’s violent eruption and were entombed alive, suggesting that the Creator is matchless in irony. Come early in the morning. Ask a Camalig-, Guinobatan-, or Ligao-bound jeepney (P10) to drop you near the ruins and walk 500m.