This small Wari ruin about 8km north of Huaraz is remarkably well preserved, dating from about AD 600 to 900. It’s an imitation of the temple at Chavín done in the Tiwanaku style. Wilkahuaín means ‘grandson’s house’ in Quechua. The three-story temple has seven rooms on each floor, each originally filled with bundles of mummies. The bodies were kept dry using a sophisticated system of ventilation ducts. Another smaller set of ruins, Wilkahuaín Pequeno, can be seen nearby.

The two-hour walk up to Wilkahuaín is a fairly easy first hike and can be a rewarding glimpse into Andean country life, passing farms and simple pueblos (villages). To get here take a taxi to 'El Pinar' (S7) from where there are two paths leading to the ruins – a direct route via the main road or a longer but more scenic route via Marian. Alternatively, a taxi direct to the ruins will set you back around S25. Avoid taking the path from the ruins down to the baths at Monterrey as robberies are common on this stretch.