The mighty Sepik is one of the great rivers of the world. In serpentine fashion it flows for 1126km through swamplands, tropical rainforests and mountains. However, the Sepik is more than just a river – it’s also a repository of complex cultures, a place where some men have crocodile skin while others place masks on yams in celebration, where mysterious rituals live on in haus tambarans (spirit houses) and master carvers still create the most potent art in the Pacific.
As you make your way around one of the endless river bends, the scale of the river, the bird life, the eerie lagoons and the traditional stilt villages make it easy to believe that you’ve travelled clean out of the 21st century and into a timeless, wonderous place.
On the coast, the two main towns attract a small trickle of intrepid surfers who come to tame the seasonal swells.