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Hpa-an (ဘားအံ), Kayin State's scruffy riverside capital, isn't going to inspire many postcards home. But the people are friendly, and the city is the logical base from which to explore the Buddhist caves, sacred mountains, and rivers and lakes of the stunning surrounding countryside.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Hpa-an.
Cave
This football-stadium-sized cave is simply breathtaking, its entrance dominated by dozens of buddha statues, a couple of pagodas and some newer clay wall carvings. With the cave now illuminated, you can scramble for 15 or 20 minutes through chambers as high as a cathedral, past truck-sized stalactites and, in places, walls of crystal.
Buddhist Monastery
Standing proud in the middle of a small, artificial lake is Kyauk Kalap, a tall finger of sheer rock atop which is one of the more unusual pagodas in Myanmar. The rock offers great views of the surrounding countryside and nearby Mt Zwegabin, and is allegedly the best place to see the sunset over this mountain. A round trip by motorcycle taxi from Hpa-an will cost K7000, or K10,000 by thoun bein.
Cave
The 7th-century artwork of the Kawgun Cave consists of thousands of tiny clay buddhas and carvings plastered all over the walls and roof of this open cavern, which is a popular spot with the local macaque monkeys. Just over a mile away is the Yathaypyan Cave, which contains several pagodas as well as a few more clay wall carvings. Both caves are partially inaccessible during the rainy season (June to October).
Buddhist Temple
Close to the waterfront, this golden pagoda is a popular hang-out around sunset, as well as an easy place to watch the world go by during the day.
Cave
This area actually consists of three caves, only two of which are generally open to the public. Kaw Ka Thawng is the first cave you'll come to. It has been gentrified with slippery tile floors and numerous buddha statues. Continuing along a path, you’ll pass the stairway to another cave that’s not normally open. Near the end of the path, you’ll reach a spring-fed swimming hole and another water-filled cave that also serves as a swimming hole.
Monument
Now digitised, but not always working, Hpa-an's clock tower is lit up at night like a gaudy lollipop.