Middle Atlas

In its heyday, Fez attracted scholars and philosophers, mathematicians and lawyers, astronomers and theologians. Craftsmen built them houses and palaces, kings endowed mosques and medersas (religious schools), and merchants offered exotic wares from the silk roads and sub-Saharan trade routes. Although Fez lost its influence at the beginning of the 19th century, it remains a supremely self-confident city whose cultural and spiritual lineage beguiles visitors. Something of the medieval remains in the world’s largest car-free urban area: donkeys cart goods down the warren of alleyways, and while there are still ruinous pockets, government efforts to restore the city are showing results.

Some 90,000 people still live in the Fez medina. It can seem like it’s in a state of perpetual pandemonium; some visitors fall instantly in love, and others recoil in horror. But its charms are many. Seemingly blind alleys lead to squares with exquisite fountains and streets bursting with aromatic food stands, rooftops unveil a sea of minarets, and stooped doorways reveal tireless artisans.

Sitting in the middle of a fertile plain, the ruined Roman city of Volubilis is the best-preserved archaeological site in Morocco. Its most amazing features are the many beautiful mosaics preserved in situ, and it was declared a Unesco World Heritage site in 1997. Volubilis is about 33km north of Meknes and can easily be combined with nearby Moulay Idriss Zerhoun to make a fantastic day trip from Meknes or Fez.

Quieter and smaller than its grand neighbour Fez, Meknes feels rather overshadowed and receives fewer visitors than it should. It’s more laid-back with less hassle, yet still has all the winding narrow medina streets and grand buildings that it warrants as an imperial city and one-time home of the Moroccan sultanate.

Sultan Moulay Ismail, the architect of Meknes’ glory days, might be a little disgruntled at the city’s current modesty, but visitors will find much to be enchanted by. Remnants of no less than three sets of fortifications, ingeniously incorporated into the city's road networks, make it clear how important this city once was. The king's tomb sits at the heart of what remains of the original imperial city, flanked by an almighty royal granary, the magnificent Bab El Mansour – the likes of which even Fez can't compete with – and Place El Hedim, a local mini-me of Marrakesh's popular square Djemaa El Fna.

The whitewashed town of Moulay Idriss sits astride two green hills in a cradle of mountains and is one of the country’s most important pilgrimage sites. Given its picturesque setting, pretty historic core and national importance, it's a mystery why more tourists don't visit. The good news is that its lack of popularity means you can often have the place all to yourself.

Moulay Idriss’ holy status kept it closed to non-Muslims until 1912, and it wasn't until 2005 that non-Muslims were allowed to stay overnight in the town. Its previous inaccessibility has helped protect the town's peaceful way of life, and those who do stay are invariably charmed. Appealing local guesthouses cater to visitors, and while it's no longer a safe haven from Morocco's dreaded tourist touts, it's still a relaxed place with a centre free of carpet shops.

This 500 sq km park encompasses Ifrane and Azrou as well as numerous Berber villages. It is known for its Atlas cedar trees and the Barbary macaque, an endangered species, and some 30 other mammals including wild pigs and wolves up on the high plateaus.

Bird life is exceptional and includes red kite, marbled teal, and common kestrel. Two Ramsar wetland sites and the lakes Dayet Ifrah and Dayet Aoua support ruddy shelduck and various coots. The lakes themselves, particularly those north of Ifrane, make for scenic touring and are popular with local day trippers from Meknes and Fez. Gentle hiking is the main pastime here.

Oak, juniper and cedar forests spread southeast from Azrou, harbouring a number of monkey troops and pleasant, partially shaded, hiking terrain. Further south lies the elevated village of Ain Leuh and the pretty Sources de l’Oum-er-Rbia, unusual for its water-skimming riverside cafes run by enterprising locals – a scenic lunch spot if you have the means to get here.

The nature around Ifrane is more alluring than the town itself. The woods of the national park virtually encroach on the urban area, and the region to the north is splashed with serene lakes.

This curious village is worth a trip for its troglodyte houses built into the picturesque mountainside and picked out in pastel hues of pink, yellow and blue. The cave dwellings date back to the 4th century and for hundreds of years have been inhabited by shepherds to protect against the elements. Some villagers go so far as to use caves for the primary room of the house. The result is a cool, spacious room, usually used as a salon, while bedrooms and private areas are built above.

The hassle often experienced in larger towns is entirely absent here: people are incredibly friendly, and local women are often found sitting out on the streets making woven buttons for djellabas (Morocco's long traditional hooded capes) – one of the village's main industries. Bhalil has an excellent local guesthouse and can make a refreshing break from the big-city hustle of Fez.