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Campeche state's second-biggest city occupies the western end of a 40km-long, narrow island between the Gulf of Mexico and the Laguna de Términos. Ciudad del Carmen was once dependent on jumbo shrimp, dyewood and chicle (gum) for its livelihood, but in the late 1970s oil was discovered. Investment poured in and the population swelled. The 3.8km Puente Zacatal (Zacatal Bridge) was completed in 1994, linking the city (and its narrow streets) with the rest of Mexico. The privatization of Pemex, Mexico's largest oil company, had a huge effect on local employment and thousands of locals lost their jobs. At the time of research, Ciudad del Carmen was feeling the brunt of this, with vacant buildings, many empty hotel rooms and a rather depressed ambience surrounding its otherwise very pretty plaza.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Ciudad del Carmen.
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Playa Norte, on the Gulf of Mexico, is Carmen's beach area. It's rather bleak looking, with wide expanses of coarse sand, murky green water, parking areas and the occasional palapa restaurant. Development is coming fast, however, with shiny new hotels, restaurants and other services. To get here, take a bus from the center marked 'Playa Norte' or ' Zoológico'. Combis charge M$7; taxis cost M$35 to M$40.
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Parque Zaragoza has a handsome 19th-century kiosk and is one of the city's most pleasant areas to hang out. On its north side is the 1856 Santuario de la Virgen del Carmen, which pays homage to the patron saint of sailors. Vestiges of Carmen's earlier prosperity remain in the centro histórico, where chicle barons' 19th-century mansions run along Calles 22 and 24, south of the plaza.
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The city's decent history museum is in an interesting old hospital building. Inside are archaeological relics (including stelae from Xpuhil), a petroleum exhibition and information on the region's pirate history – plus a kids' pirate ship, complete with plank. Guides in Spanish only.