Picturesque Prizren, with its charming mosque- and church-filled old town, shines with an enthusiasm that's infectious. It's Kosovo's second city and most obvious tourist town and is well worth a day or two's lingering exploration. The castle high above the city is a must-see and there's a museum or two, plus the town can be used as a base for day trips to the Shar Mountains. Prizren is equally known for Dokufest, a documentary film festival held each August that attracts documentary makers and fans from all over the world.
The city's young population means that in the evenings the old town buzzes with revellers and enjoys a very sociable air. However, the town's current glow masks a tragic and divisive past: of the 20,000 Serbs who lived here in 1999, only 20 remain, guarding fiercely the sorrowful remnants of their once strong presence.