Picturesque Prizren is Kosovo's second city, and it shines with a post-independence euphoria and enthusiasm that's infectious. The charming mosque- and church-filled old town is well worth setting aside a few hours to explore, while the castle high above the city is a must-see. Prizren is equally known for Dokufest, a documentary film festival held each August that attracts documentary makers and fans from all over the world.
The city's young population means that in the evenings the old town buzzes with revellers and enjoys a very sociable air. However, the town's current glow masks a tragic and divisive past: of the 20,000 Serbs who lived here in 1999, only 20 remain, guarding fiercely the sorrowful remnants of their once strong presence.