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Picturesque Prizren, with its charming mosque- and church-filled old town, shines with an enthusiasm that's infectious. It's Kosovo's second city and most obvious tourist town and is well worth a day or two's lingering exploration. The castle high above the city is a must-see and there's a museum or two, plus the town can be used as a base for day trips to the Shar Mountains. Prizren is equally known for Dokufest, a documentary film festival held each August that attracts documentary makers and fans from all over the world.
The city's young population means that in the evenings the old town buzzes with revellers and enjoys a very sociable air. However, the town's current glow masks a tragic and divisive past: of the 20,000 Serbs who lived here in 1999, only 20 remain, guarding fiercely the sorrowful remnants of their once strong presence.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Prizren.
Castle
It's well worth making the steep 15-minute hike up from Prizren's old town (follow the road past the Orthodox Church on the hillside; it's well signed and pretty obvious) for the superb views over the city and on into the distance. The fortress itself is a little tumble-down but restoration work is currently underway. In the evening heaps of locals come up here and a slight carnival atmosphere prevails. In the white-heat of day, it can be quite lifeless.
Museum
In the late 19th century the Albanian League was established in Prizren to push for greater rights for the town's Albanian community. This calm and attractive complex was the League's base in the city. The complex was destroyed by Serbian forces in 1999, but today it's all been beautifully restored and contains a small museum dedicated to the history of the League, plus the exquisite 15th-century Bajrakli Mosque.
Mosque
Dating from 1615, the Sinan Pasha Mosque is the most important in Prizren, and it sits right at the heart of the old town, overlooking the river and the town's Ottoman Bridge. Its impressive dome, minaret and colonnaded facade form a fabulous sight from the street, though it's also well worth going inside (outside of prayer times) to see the striking interior.
Cathedral
Dating from 1856, this Serbian Orthodox Cathedral was badly damaged during 1999 and the 2004 riots. Today it's been fully restored but access is generally blocked by police. However, you can admire its sturdy, stone fortifications from one of the nearby pavement cafes.
Museum
This friendly little museum has an interesting exhibit of costumes, handicrafts and household implements. It's across the river from the old town. Opening hours are best described as erratic.
Church
Prizren's most important site is the Orthodox Church of Our Lady of Ljeviš, a 14th-century Serbian church that was used as a mosque by the local population until 1911. The church was badly damaged in 2004 by the town's Albanian population and placed on Unesco's World Heritage in Danger list in 2006. At the time of research, the church was closed and the barbed-wire fences and heavy gates give the impression that it won't be reopening anytime soon.