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Hokkaidō
Hokkaidō (北海道) is the Japan of wide-open spaces, with 20% of the country's land area but only 5% of its population. There are large swathes of wilderness here, with primeval forests, tropical-blue caldera lakes, fields of alpine wildflowers and bubbling, in-the-rough hot springs. In the summer, all this (plus the cooler, drier weather) draws hikers, cyclists and strollers.
Winter is a different beast entirely: cold fronts from Siberia bring huge dumps of light, powdery snow, which has earned Hokkaidō a reputation as a paradise for skiers and snowboarders; there are international-level resorts here, but also remote backcountry opportunities.
The island's stunning natural scenery and the promise of outdoor adventure tend to overshadow everything else Japan's northernmost island has to offer, which is a lot: there is excellent food, especially seafood; a vibrant capital city; and a compelling history, starting with the legacy of Hokkaidō's indigenous people, the Ainu.
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Top attractions
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Hokkaidō.
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Otaru Canal
Historic Otaru canal is lined with warehouses from the late 19th and early 20th centuries when this port city served as the financial centre of Hokkaidō and a bustling center of trade with Russia and China. This was a time when traditional Japanese architecture was infused with Western-style building techniques, leading to some intriguing architectural styles being on display. Most of the canal-lined spots have been restored and now house museums and cafes. Unfortunately the canal itself is half-buried by a major thoroughfare, despite the best lobbying efforts of local preservationists. Still, a stroll along the canal's banks is a very pleasant way to spend an afternoon, particularly in February when twinkling lanterns line the river as part of the town's Snow Light Path Festival. Otaru canal cruise The view of the canal is even prettier from the vantage point on the water. Cruises depart from Chūō-bashi and last 40 minutes; though recommended, no advance booking is necessary. Hotels close to Otaru canal Otaru is an easy day trip from Sapporo, though it also works as a convenient stopover on the way to Niseko. There are plenty of places to stay here, the best (and priciest) of which have rooms overlooking the bay. For proximity to the canal, you can't beat Hotel Nord Otaru or Hotel Sonia, both located right on the canal bank. For those on a budget, the excellent Otarunai Backpackers' Hostel Morinoki is around a 15-minute walk from the canal side.
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Mashū-ko
Considered by many to be Japan's most beautiful lake, Mashū-ko once held the world record for water clarity. The island in the middle was known by the Ainu as the Isle of the Gods. A road runs along the western rim. You can't get down to lake level, but there are two official viewing points called Viewpoint 1 and Viewpoint 3; there's no parking fee at the latter.
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Sapporo Beer Museum
This legendary Sapporo attraction is in the original Sapporo Beer brewery, a pretty, ivy-covered brick building. There's no need to sign up for the tour; there are plenty of English explanations throughout about Japan's oldest beer (the brewery was founded in 1876). At the end there's a tasting salon (beers ¥200 to ¥300) where you can compare Sapporo's signature Black Label with Sapporo Classic (found only in Hokkaidō) and Kaitakushi Pilsner, a re-creation of the original recipe (found only here). Afterwards, head next door to the Sapporo Biergarten for more beer and jingisukan (all-you-can-eat lamb dish). Note that any drivers will not be allowed to drink. From the subway it's a 10-minute walk; the bus stops right out front.
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Ōdōri-kōen
This haven in the heart of the city is fully 13 blocks (1.5km) long, with the TV Tower at its eastern end. Among the green lawns and flower gardens are benches, fountains and sculptures; don't miss Noguchi Isamu's elegant Black Slide Mantra. This is also where many of the city's major events and festivals take place. The park is a 10-minute walk south from JR Sapporo Station along Eki-mae-dōri.
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Kussharo-ko
Japan's largest caldera lake is a rich blue on sunny days. A small volcano peeks out from the centre, creating the island Naka-jima – best viewed from the Bihoro Pass. The lake is also purportedly the home of a Loch Ness monster–-like creature nicknamed Kusshi.
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Ōkura-yama Ski Jump Stadium
This ski-jump slope was built on the side of Ōkura-yama for the Sapporo 1972 Winter Games. At 133.6m it's just slightly shorter than Sapporo TV Tower, with a 33-degree incline. What would it feel like to whiz down that? You can hazard a guess after taking the rickety old lift up to the top and staring down the slope. Keep that image in mind when you try the highly amusing computerised simulator in the museum below. There are a few other simulators in the museum, as well as photos and equipment from the 1972 Games – which show just how far winter sports technology (and fashion!) has come in the last 45 years. The stadium is actually still in use and if you're lucky, you might catch a practice session. To reach Ōkura-yama, take the Tōzai subway line to Maruyama Kōen (円山公園), and then take exit 2 for the Maruyama bus terminal. Next, take bus 14 to Ōkurayama-kyōgijō-iriguchi (大倉山競技場入り口; ¥210, 15 minutes); from here, it's a 10-minute walk uphill to the stadium.
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Usu-zan
Here is a rare chance to bear witness to modern mountain-making: Shōwa Shin-zan (昭和新山; 398m) – whose name means 'the new mountain of the Shōwa period' – arose from a wheat field following the 1943 eruption of Usu-zan. The Usu-zan Ropeway runs up to a viewing platform for Shōwa Shin-zan, with Tōya-ko behind it. From the observation deck a trail heads out on a 90-minute circuit (open May to October) around the outer rim of Usu-zan, with views of Tōya-ko and Yōtei-zan. Buses (one way/round trip ¥340/620, 10.10am, 12.45pm, 1.40pm and 3.50pm) run four times a day from the Tōya-ko Onsen bus terminal to the ropeway. A taxi should cost ¥1800; all the way from JR Tōya-ko Station, ¥3000.
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Bear Mountain
This 15-hectare forested enclosure in northern Tokachi is home to 12 male higuma (who range in size from 300kg to 400kg!). The clever viewing facilities include a boardwalk 5m above ground and, for a little more yen, a heavily fortified bus – that looks like it was built for Jurassic Park – that cruises the park. The bears seem little fazed by both, and you're almost guaranteed to see at least one hanging around. You'll need your own wheels to get to Bear Mountain. It's part of the Sahoro Resort (サホロリゾート) complex on Rte 38, 54km northeast of Obihiro and 66km southeast of Furano. Bear Mountain is, naturally, closed during the winter as all the bears are hibernating.
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Kaitaku-mura
This expansive collection of historical buildings (and some recreations), in Nopporo Shinrin-kōen east of central Sapporo, shows the diversity of experience in 19th-century Hokkaidō. There are ornate Victorian town halls; equally grand villas built by herring barons in the traditional Japanese style; and thatched-roof pioneer cabins. Most of the buildings you can enter. From Shin-Sapporo Station, take bus 新22 (¥210, 15 minutes, every 60 minutes) from bus stop 10 for Kaitaku-mura (開拓の村), the last stop. Note that the collection is also free for international students living in Hokkaido (with valid proof of residence).
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When to go to Hokkaidō, Japan
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