This stunning, multipurpose exhibition space inhabits the old Pirelli train shed. Its smartly curated temporary, contemporary retrospectives are certainly worth a visit, but the big attraction is a permanent installation by German artist Anselm Kiefer. The seven concrete-and-lead towers of The Seven Heavenly Palaces are 15m tall and their precarious, ruined shells invoke the mythical yearning of their title as well as the abject destruction of postwar Europe.
On-site there's also a good bistro and bookshop, and the centre also hosts some excellent educational programs and cultural events. Check their online calendar for details.