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Abruzzo

Neither part of fashion conscious, Ferrari-producing northern Italy, nor the siesta-loving, anarchic world of the south, Abruzzo is something of an enigma. Despite its proximity to Rome and its long history of tribalism and pre-Roman civilisation, it sits well down the pecking order of Italian regions in terms of touristic allure.

Notwithstanding, this gritty mountainous domain, rocked sporadically by earthquakes, remains refreshingly unique. Herein lies a higher concentration of protected land than anywhere else in Italy, some of the last vestiges of large wild fauna on the continent, and a patchwork of individualistic towns and villages whose folkloric traditions go back as far as the Italic tribes who founded them.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Abruzzo.

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    Museo Casa Natale Gabriele D'Annunzio

    The birthplace of controversial proto-fascist poet Gabriele D'Annunzio is small but excellently curated, with nine rooms displaying furniture, documents, photos and his death mask resting in a polished glass case. A short film (in Italian) is given as an introduction. A larger-than-life figure, D'Annunzio (1863–1938) is sometimes seen as an Italian Nietzsche, a learned and literary man who became an ultra-nationalist during World War I with ideas that acted as a precursor to Mussolini. In 1919, D'Annunzio marched with 2500 Italian troops into the Croatian city of Fiume and briefly declared it to be an independent state with himself as Il Duce (leader).

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    Museo delle Genti d'Abruzzo

    An extensive (if slightly dated) display of Abruzzo culture that squeezes rather a lot into 13 interconnecting rooms, covering the Bronze Age to the Risorgimento and beyond. The labelling is mainly in Italian with some sporadic English and the presentation is, at times, a little cluttered. But there’s a lot of history backed up by exhibits of a more folkloric bent (including numerous costumes). Most illuminating is the little-told story of Abruzzo’s Italic shepherd warriors who gave the peninsula its name.

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    Ponte del Mare

    Surely one of the most attractive modern bridges in Italy, this sweeping curvaceous structure was built in 2009 to carry bikes and pedestrians across the Pescara River. Without a doubt, it's the best viewpoint in the city, affording vistas over the long beachfront and the contrasting new and old towns, with the Abruzzese mountains – and on clear days Corno Grande – rising in the background.

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    Palazzo Fanzago

    The Palazzo Fanzago was designed by the great baroque architect Cosimo Fanzago in 1624. Look out for the carved wooden dragons under the roof and the ornate baroque window niches facing the square (they're actually fake windows). Inside, the gratis Museo del Merletto a Tombolo displays examples of Pescocostanzo's rich artisan heritage with an emphasis on bobbin lace-making.

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    Castello Caldora

    The defining symbol of Pacentro, this unusual castle with its three oversized towers guards the foothills of Monte Morrone and is visible for miles around. The castle dates from the 950s, although the towers (there were originally four) weren’t added until the 14th century. Many noble families have resided here, including the pope-producing Orsini clan, until the castle became municipal property in 1957. There is little museum-worthy inside save for a few heraldic shields, but the main reason to come here is to climb the tallest of the towers and gaze out across the Majella foothills.

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    Collegiata di Santa Maria del Colle

    Rebuilt in the decades following a 1456 earthquake, the atmospheric Collegiata di Santa Maria del Colle combines a superb Romanesque portal with a lavish baroque interior complete with gilded frescoed ceiling. A grand staircase leads up from the street to the main doors. The church is usually open in daylight hours, but beware, timetables can be fickle in rural Abruzzo.

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    Museo d'Arte Moderna Vittoria Colonna

    In a country as art-heavy as Italy, this small, not particularly attractive building close to the seafront isn't what you'd call a big hitter, although it does have a Picasso and Miró among its small collection of modern art. Only worth a brief pit stop, unless there is a seriously interesting temporary exhibition showing.