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Beara Peninsula

After Kerry and Dingle, the Beara Peninsula is the third major 'ring' (circular driving route) in Ireland's southwest. Its intricate coast and sharp-featured mountains are a geologist's paradise of exposed and contorted rock strata, making for dramatic scenery at almost every turn.

You can easily drive the 137km Ring of Beara in one day, but you would miss the spectacular Healy Pass Road (R574), which cuts across the peninsula from Adrigole in Cork to Lauragh in County Kerry. In fact, if pressed for time, skip the rest and do the pass.

The south side, along Bantry Bay, is a string of working fishing villages. The north side, in contrast, has only a few small hamlets dotted along craggy roads with grand views north to the mountains of Kerry. At the tip is a cable car linking the peninsula to tiny Dursey Island.

The northeastern part of the peninsula lies in County Kerry, but most is within County Cork.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Beara Peninsula.

Gardens
Ilnacullin
This horticultural miracle of an island was created in the early 20th century when the island's owner commissioned architect Harold Peto to design a garden on the then-barren outcrop. Topsoil was shipped in, landscaped gardens laid out, and subtropical species planted; camellias, magnolias and rhododendrons now provide a seasonal blaze of colour. Harbour Queen and Blue Pool run 10-minute ferry trips to the island past colonies of basking seals and a nesting site for white-tailed eagles.
Ruins
Dunboy Castle
The ruins of this 15th-century castle, a former stronghold of the O'Sullivan Beare clan, sit on a promontory overlooking the southern entrance to the sheltered harbour of Bere Haven, a fantastic spot for a summer picnic. The castle was destroyed by English forces during the Siege of Dunboy in 1602. Dunboy is at the end of a narrow road (the L8935), which leaves the main road 2.5km southwest of Castletownbere (parking space for two or three cars).
Nature Reserve
Glengarriff Woods Nature Reserve
The valley of the Glengarriff River, to the northwest of Glengarriff village, was once the private estate of the Earl of Bantry. As such its ancient oak woodland has survived, the thick tree cover maintaining humid conditions that allow ferns and mosses to flourish. The reserve is rich in wildlife – look out for red squirrels and siskins in the woods, and otters and kingfishers along the river. Waymarked walking trails radiate from the main car park 1km north of the village.
Island
Bere Island
Only 12km by 7km, Bere Island has around 200 permanent residents and attracts scores more to summer holiday homes. There are ruined Martello towers, craggy coves good for swimming, and a 19km loop of the Beara Way to hike. Bere Island Ferry leaves from town but drops you in a remote part of the island. Murphy's Ferry Service, departing from Pontoon pier, 5km east of Castletownbere, docks by the island's main village, Rerrin, which has a shop, a pub, a cafe and accommodation.
Gardens
Ewe Experience
More than 20 years in the making, this interactive sculpture garden is imaginative, thought-provoking and humorous, with nature and art working together to provide an unforgettable walk in the woods. From the sheep in the vintage car to the pig blissing out in a bubble bath, a kilometre of trails takes you past dozens of intriguing sculptures, installations, puzzles and games, which weave together art, nature, science, music and poetry. The gardens are 4.5km northwest of Glengarriff on the N71.
Farm
Milleens Cheese
The town of Eyeries is home to Milleens cheese, first created by the late pioneering producer Veronica Steele. Visitors are welcome to visit the Steele family farm; phone ahead to arrange a visit. Coming from Eyeries, turn right towards Allihies then take the first left past the cemetery (L8918); the farm is 400m along this very narrow road (there are no signs until you reach the farm entrance).
Farm
Gleninchaquin Park
This working sheep farm offers a whole range of things to do, from waymarked history and geology walks to trout fishing and feeding the lambs (in spring), all in an extraordinarily beautiful setting, high in a valley overlooked by a bridal-veil waterfall. It's signposted off the R571 halfway between Lauragh and Kenmare. Cash only.
Gardens
Derreen Gardens
Derreen Gardens were planted by the fifth Lord Lansdowne around the turn of the 20th century. Mossy paths weave through an abundance of interesting plants, including spectacular New Zealand tree ferns, colourful rhododendrons and red cedars, and you may see seals on the shore. There's a cafe (open 11am to 5pm Easter to October).
Museum
Allihies Copper Mine Museum
Allihies' history as a copper mining area is chronicled in this engaging museum, the result of years of work by the community; there's also tourist information and a cafe. Pick up a copy of the museum leaflet and follow the Copper Mine Trail, a waymarked hike among the remains of the old workings.