West Bali

Ever more popular, Balian Beach is a rolling area of dunes and knolls overlooking pounding surf. It attracts both surfers and those looking to escape the bustle of south Bali.

You can wander between cafes and join other travellers for a beer, to watch the sunset and to talk surf. There are simple places to rent boards along the black-sand beach, while nonsurfers can enjoy yoga or bodysurfing.

Balian Beach is right at the mouth of the wide Sungai Balian (Balian River). It is 800m south of the town of Lalang-Linggah, which is on the main road 10km west of Antosari.

This is the home of the surfing mecca of Pantai Medewi and its much-vaunted long left-hand wave. Rides of 200m to 400m are common.

The beach is a stretch of huge, smooth grey rocks interspersed among round black pebbles – think of it as free reflexology. Cattle and goats graze by the shore as spectators view the action out on the water. There are a few guesthouses plus a couple of surf shops (board rental from 100,000Rp per day).

Medewi proper is a classic market town with shops selling all the essentials of west Bali life.

Don't miss one of the top temples on Bali, a serene place of enveloping calm. The huge royal water temple of Pura Taman Ayun, surrounded by a wide, elegant moat, was the main temple of the Mengwi kingdom, which survived until 1891, when it was conquered by the neighbouring kingdoms of Tabanan and Badung. The temple was built in 1634 and extensively renovated in 1937. It's a spacious place to wander around, away from crowds.

Pura Tanah Lot is a hugely popular tourist destination. It does have cultural significance to the Balinese, but this can be hard to discern amid the crowds, clamour and chaos – especially for the overhyped sunsets. It's the most visited and photographed temple in Bali; however, it has all the authenticity of a stage set – even the tower of rock that the temple sits upon is an artful reconstruction (the entire structure was crumbling) and more than one-third of the rock is artificial.

Picturesquely situated on a clifftop overlooking a long, wide stretch of black-sand beach, this superb temple shaded by flowering frangipani trees is one of the important sea temples of west Bali. Like Pura Tanah Lot and Pura Luhur Ulu Watu, it was established in the 16th century by the priest Nirartha, who had a good eye for ocean scenery. Unlike Tanah Lot, it remains a peaceful and little-visited place: on non-ceremony days you'll just find a couple of lonely drink vendors.

Nestled between Canggu and Tanah Lot, Cemagi is worth a visit for its picturesque temple and striking coastline.