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Ubud Region

Though Ubud will always claim the limelight in this region, there are some minor players well worthy of attention. A day spent visiting the temples of Tampaksiring, pausing en route to indulge in a photographic frenzy at the famed Ceking rice terraces, is time well spent, and the same can be said for a visit to the many traditional artisans' villages south of Ubud, which are deservedly famous for the quality of their craftmanship. Basing yourself in Ubud, which is replete with alluring sleeping and eating options, is a no-brainer, but so too is hopping on a motorcycle or organising a car and driver to see the rest that this part of Bali has to offer. There may be few top-drawer sights, but there are many scenic side roads that amply reward exploration.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Ubud Region.

  • See

    Agung Rai Museum of Art

    If you only visit one museum in Ubud, make it this one. Founder Agung Rai built his fortune selling Balinese artwork to foreigners in the 1970s, and during his time as a dealer he also built one of Indonesia's most impressive private collections of art. This cultural compound opened in 1996 and displays his collection in two purpose-built gallery buildings – highlights include the wonderful 19th-century Portrait of a Javanese Nobleman and his Wife by Javanese artist Raden Saleh (1807–80). Exhibits include classical Kamasan paintings and Batuan-style work from the 1930s and '40s and among the artists represented are I Gusti Nyoman Lempad (1862–1978), Ida Bagus Made (1915–1999), Anak Agung Gede Sobrat (1912–1992) and I Gusti Made Deblog (1906–1986). Stand-out works to seek out in the modern art gallery are Green Rice Paddies (1987) by Nasjah Djamin (1924–1999) and Wild Orchids (1988) by Widaya (1923–2002). In the traditional art gallery, look for The Dance Drama Arja (1945) by I Ketut Kasta (b 1945), Cremation Cememony (1994) by I Ketut Sepi (b 1941) and the extraordinarily detailed Wali 'Ekadesa Rudra' (2015) by I Wayan Mardiana (b 1970). The traditional art gallery is also home to a collection of works by expat artist Walter Spies (1895–1942), who played a significant role in the development of the Ubud painting school. It’s fun to visit ARMA when local children practise Balinese dancing and during gamelan practice. There are also regular dance performances and myriad cultural courses offered here. Enter the museum grounds from Kafe Arma on Jl Raya Pengosekan or around the corner at the ARMA Resort entrance. Your ticket includes a drink at the cafe.

  • See

    Neka Art Museum

    Offering an excellent introduction to Balinese art, the top-notch collection is displayed in a series of pavilions and halls. Don't miss the multiroom Balinese Painting Hall, which showcases wayang (puppet) style as well as the European-influenced Ubud and Batuan styles introduced in the 1920s and '30s. Also notable is the Lempad Pavilion, with works by the master I Gusti Nyoman Lempad (1862–1978), and the East-West Art Annexe, where works by Affandi (1907–90) and Widayat (1919–2002) impress. Good bookstore, too. The museum is the creation of Suteja Neka, a private collector and dealer in Balinese art, and his collection is huge. As well as works by Balinese and Indonesian artists, there are plenty of works by foreign artists who have called the island home, including Arie Smit, Johan Rudolf Bonnet, Theo Meier, Louise Garrett Koke, Donald Friend and Tay Moh-Leong. There's also a gift shop where quality local handicrafts can be purchased.

  • See

    Ubud Monkey Forest

    This cool and dense swath of jungle officially houses three holy temples. The sanctuary is inhabited by a band of over 600 grey-haired and greedy long-tailed Balinese macaques who are nothing like the innocent-looking, doe-eyed monkeys on the brochures – they can bite, so be careful around them. Note that the temples are only open to worshippers. Enter the monkey forest through one of three gates: the main one is at the southern end of Monkey Forest Rd. Useful brochures about the forest, macaques and temples are available at the ticket office. Free shuttles to get here and back drive a loop around central Ubud every 15 minutes, stopping on JI Raya Ubud, JI Hanoman and on Money Forest Rd – look for the lime-green buses. Note that the monkeys keep a keen eye on passing tourists in hope of handouts (or an opportunity to help themselves). Irritating recorded warnings (and signs) list all the ways monkeys can cause trouble: avoid eye contact and showing your teeth, including smiling, which is deemed a sign of aggression. Also, don't try to take bananas from the monkeys or feed them.

  • See

    Petulu

    Every evening beginning after 5pm, up to 20,000 big herons fly in to Petulu, a village about 2.5km north of Jl Raya Ubud, squabbling over the prime perching places before settling into the trees beside the road and becoming a tourist attraction. The herons, mainly the striped Java pond species, started their visits to Petulu in 1965 for no apparent reason. Villagers believe they bring good luck (as well as tourists), despite the smell and the mess. A few warung (food stalls) have been set up in the paddy fields, where you can have a drink while enjoying the spectacle. Walk quickly under the trees if the herons are already roosting. Nesting and egg-laying begins in November, with the fledglings taking flight in March. Petulu is a pleasant walk or bicycle ride on any of several routes north of Ubud, but if you stay for the birds, you'll be heading back in the dark.

  • See

    Pura Taman Saraswati

    Waters from the temple at the rear of this site feed the pond in the front, which overflows with pretty lotus blossoms. There are carvings that honour Dewi Saraswati, the goddess of wisdom and the arts, who has clearly given her blessing to Ubud. Regular dance performances are staged here by night. Only worshippers may enter the temple itself.

  • See

    Museum Puri Lukisan

    It was in Ubud that the modern Balinese art movement started, when artists first began to abandon purely religious themes and court subjects for scenes of everyday life. This museum set in a lovely formal garden has four buildings displaying works from all schools and periods of Balinese art, with a focus on modern masters including I Gusti Nyoman Lempad (1862–1978), Ida Bagus Made (1915–99) and I Gusti Made Kwandji (1936–2013). All works are labelled in English. The East Building, to the right upon entry, has a collection of early works from Ubud and surrounding villages. These include examples of classical wayang -style paintings (art influenced by shadow puppetry) from the 10th to 15th centuries, and impressive 20th-century works such as The Death of Karna (1935) by I Wayan Tutur. The North Building features fine ink drawings by I Gusti Nyoman Lempad and paintings by artists of the Pita Maha school. Don't miss Temple Festival (1938) by I Gusti Ketut Kobot (1917–1999). In the West Building is detailed art by 20th-century Balinese painters. Look for Barong Dance (1970) by I Gusti Made Kwandji (1936–2013). The South Building is used for special exhibitions and contains some museum history. The museum ticket includes a drink in the garden cafe.

  • See

    Ubud Palace

    This modest palace and its temple, Puri Saren Agung, share a compound in the heart of Ubud. Most of its structures were built after the 1917 earthquake and the local royal family still lives here. You can wander around most of the compound and explore the many traditional, though not excessively ornate, buildings. The main pavilion often hosts evening dance performances. Take time to appreciate the stone carvings, many by noted local artists such as I Gusti Nyoman Lempad. Just north, Pura Marajan Agung is the private temple for the royal family. The compound across from the palace has a magnificent banyan tree, and is also used as a residence for the family.

  • See

    Pura Gunung Lebah

    This old temple, which sits on a jutting rock at the confluence of two tributaries of Sungai Cerik ( campuan means 'two rivers'), has recently benefited from a huge building campaign. The setting is magical; listen to the rushing waters while admiring the impressive meru (multi-tiered shrine) and a wealth of elaborate carvings.

  • See

    Pura Penataran Sasih

    This was once the state temple of the Pejeng kingdom. In the inner courtyard, high up in a pavilion and difficult to see, is the huge bronze drum known as the Fallen Moon of Pejeng. The hourglass-shaped drum is 186cm long, the largest single-piece cast drum in the world. Estimates of its age vary from 1000 to 2000 years. The temple is in Pejeng, 5km east of central Ubud. It is not certain whether the drum was made locally or imported – the intricate geometric decorations are said to resemble patterns from places as far apart as West Papua and Vietnam. Balinese legend relates that the drum came to earth as a fallen moon, landing in a tree and shining so brightly that it prevented a band of thieves from going about their unlawful purpose. One of the thieves decided to put the light out by urinating on it, but the moon exploded and fell to earth as a drum, with a crack across its base as a result of the fall. Although the big noise here is all about the drum, be sure to notice the statuary in the temple courtyard that dates from the 10th to the 12th century.

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