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Makassar

The gritty but energetic metropolis of Makassar is one of Indonesia's primary ports. It's a seething maelstrom of commerce and shipping, with a polyglot population of Makassarese, Bugis and Chinese residents. But as the city has few sights, and the tropical heat and pollution are unremitting, travelers rarely stay long before moving on to regional destinations.

Makassar was the gateway to eastern Indonesia for centuries, and it was from here that the Dutch colonizers controlled much of the trade that passed between the West and the East. You can investigate the city's historical core around Fort Rotterdam, which includes the remains of an ancient Gowanese fort and some Dutch buildings.

Note that the one-time name for Makassar, Ujung Pandang, is still in common use. Look for both names when arranging flights and other transport.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Makassar.

  • Fort

    Fort Rotterdam

    One of the best-preserved examples of Dutch military architecture in Indonesia, Fort Rotterdam was built on the site of a Gowanese fort, itself built to repel the Dutch East India Company. Having failed to keep out the orang belanda (Dutch people), it was reconstructed by the new masters of Makassar after their 1667 conquest, and includes many fine, well-restored colonial structures. You can walk the enclave's stout ramparts, see sections of the original walls and, inside, visit the Museum Negeri La Galigo.

  • Mosque

    Asmaul Husnah 99 Kubah

    On the reclaimed waterfront opposite Pantai Losari, this stunning bright-orange-and-white, 99-domed mosque was almost complete at the time of research and is destined to become a major Makassar attraction. Reach it by passing the dramatic 'Centre Point of Indonesia' globe sculpture and a new cable bridge shaped like a tongkonan (traditional Torajan house).

  • Tomb

    Makam Sultan Hasanuddin

    This tomb memorialises Indonesian national hero Sultan Hasanuddin, who ruled Gowa during the 17th century, fiercely defending the kingdom against the Dutch. He held the impressively fortified Fort Somba Opu against an invasion party of 94 Dutch and 2000 Bugis soldiers for eight days before it fell in 1669. Outside the tomb compound you'll find the Pelantikan Stone, on which the kings of Gowa were crowned.

  • Island

    Pulau Samalona

    Just far enough away from Makassar to shed most (but not all) of the rubbish, the white sands of Pulau Samalona are popular with day trippers, particularly on weekends. There are patches of (degraded) coral offshore, some reef fish, and snorkelling gear for hire. Compared to Makassar harbour, the water’s pretty clear. Cold drinks (including beer) and fresh fish are available, but bring your own water. It takes a full two minutes to walk around the entire island.

  • Port

    Pelabuhan Paotere

    Pelabuhan Paotere, 4km north of the city centre, is a large port where Bugis sailing ships berth. It's a working port, with requisite bustle and grime, but the ships are photogenic, and people generally friendly. The port and the nearby fish market are atmospheric places from dawn until mid-morning, when giant tuna and every sea creature imaginable are traded.

  • Museum

    Museum Negeri La Galigo

    Spread across two buildings inside Fort Rotterdam, Museum Negeri La Galigo has an assortment of exhibits, including palaeolithic artefacts, rice bowls from Tana Toraja, Polynesian and Buddhist statues, musical instruments and traditional costumes – most accompanied by blocks of poorly translated English text. It's a modest collection, but worth the admission and half an hour's attention.

  • Ruins

    Beteng Somba Opu

    Once the most formidable fortress in the archipelago, Somba Opu was decimated by the Dutch in 1669, then consumed by the Jeneberang River delta. One massive wall was excavated in the '80s and '90s as part of a brief interest of historical preservation that also saw construction of several traditional houses and a small museum. Today, however, the park largely feels abandoned.

  • Waterfront

    Pantai Losari

    Pantai Losari is a kilometre-long beachless promenade that stretches south to Masjid Amirul Mukminin, the 'floating mosque'. It's a good place to catch some sea air by day, but springs to life at night with endless snack carts hawking pisang epe ( a grilled banana decadence) to milling teenagers.

  • Museum

    Museum Balla Lompoa

    A seemingly forgotten and rather dilapidated collection of local artefacts is housed in an impressive example of traditional Sulawesi architecture: the ancient fort of Benteng Sungguminasa. This massive ironwood building raised on 2m stilts was once the seat of the Sultan of Gowa. It's 12km south of Makassar town centre at Sungguminasa.