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North Sulawesi has lots to offer in a relatively condensed space. You can dive some of the world’s best coral reefs at Pulau Bunaken one day, explore volcanic scenery near Tomohon the next, and visit the lowland Tangkoko-Batuangas Dua Saudara Nature Reserve and its wildlife the day after. The Bitung area's world-class muck diving (including very quirky macro life) is another huge draw.
Economic prosperity from tourism and agriculture (mostly cloves and coconuts) means that North Sulawesi is the most developed province on the island. The two largest distinct groups in the region are the Minahasans and the Sangirese, but there are many more subgroups. Dutch influence is stronger here than anywhere else in the country: the Dutch language is still spoken among the older generation, and well-to-do families often send their children to study in the Netherlands.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout North Sulawesi.
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About 9km southwest of Bitung, Tasikoki is an entirely volunteer-run organisation that rescues and cares for animals confiscated from smugglers. The aim is to rehabilitate the animals and release them back into the wild. You can make a day visit to the centre (donations appreciated) or sign on longer as a volunteer. Note: if you turn up unannounced, you will be curtly sent on your way.
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Not just another roadside attraction, this complex is home to Minahasa houses, a history museum, a celebration of owls (the Minahasa Regency mascot), a weaving workshop, an anti-narcotics museum and a botanical garden. Also on display is the world's largest playable trumpet, the world's largest xylophone and the (formerly) world's longest silk sarong. It's all the work of Benny Mamoto, a Java-born police general who is passionate about Minahasa culture, and wants to put this region on the map. It's interesting, well-presented and definitely on our map.
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Suffering from erosion and rising sea levels, the beach at Liang has become a svelte, though pleasant, strip of white sand. At low tide, there's still plenty of room to toss a frisbee around. The beach is lined with resorts that crawl up the hillside behind. Food stalls and trinket vendors seem out of place until the mobs of day-trippers arrive around 10am.
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Forming much of the east coast of Pulau Bunaken, Pantai Pangalisang is a long stretch of walkable soft white sand tucked between a thick wall of mangroves and the land. Just beyond the thicket is some outrageous snorkelling, and most lodges have cut paths for boats and swimmers. The beach all but disappears at high tide.
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Up the hill east of town is the colourful, chaotic, anything-goes traditional market you've probably heard stories about – and those stories are true. Things are most lively in the morning. Vegetarians and those not keen to learn animal anatomy should avoid.
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Located 3km east of Pulau Bunaken and the smallest island of the archipelago, Siladen boasts wonderful white-sand beaches and a wall of gorgeous corals. All lodging is lined up on the island's west side, looking across at Bunaken.
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Minahasans traditionally interred their dead in a squatting position in waruga stone sarcophagi shaped like houses sitting above ground right near their settlement. During a particularly nasty outbreak of cholera, the Dutch government banned the practice, forcing Minahasans to bury their dead below ground some distance from the village. Waruga Opo Worang has a small collection in town.
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The 19th-century Kienteng Ban Hian Kong is the oldest Buddhist temple in eastern Indonesia and it has been beautifully restored. The temple hosts a spectacular festival in February (dates vary according to the lunar calendar).
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Danau Linau is a small, highly sulphurous lake that changes colours with the light, and is home to extensive birdlife. Take a mikrolet to Sonder, get off at Lahendong and walk 1.5km to the lake.