Ternate is gorgeous, swathed in jungle and wild clove trees. However, when you first land here, in the looming shadow of Gamalama, with several more volcanic islands dotting the deep blue channel beyond, you may be shocked by its frenetic pace. Traditionally the bureaucratic heart of Malut, Kota Ternate is grudgingly relinquishing some kantor to the new capital, Sofifi on nearby Halmahera. It's the transport hub of...
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