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Almost abandoned by tourism due to a period of religious violence, Central Sulawesi is now back on the map for travellers moving between the Togean Islands and Tana Toraja.
Settlements on the shores of Danau Poso are an ideal place to break up a long bus ride. Tranquil Tentena is the easiest place to arrange treks into the Lore Lindu National Park, which is filled with mysterious megaliths and has a wildlife-rich jungle. Those with the time and a nose for anthropology should head to Morowali Nature Reserve to seek out the Wana people, while beach bums can laze around on the white sands of Tanjung Karang near Palu.
In September 2018, a violent earthquake hit this region, sending a devastating tsunami into Palu Bay. Though the recovery of the city and immediately affected regions is ongoing, the area can still be used by tourists for transit, and conditions will continue to improve.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Central Sulawesi.
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Seemingly scattered haphazardly around the hills near Lore Lindu National Park are some 400 ancient stone megaliths of unknown origin that might be over 5000 years old. A fine assortment of these can be found – with a guide – in Bada Valley, 60km west of Tentena, including the 4m tall, anatomically correct, leaning Palindo. While you can see many of the statues in one long day from Tentena, several villages do have homestays or guesthouses including Bomba, Gintu and Tuare.
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Togean Islands National Park was gazetted in 2004, and in 2017 was declared a tourism area of national significance. The park encompasses 3400 sq km of ocean and 250 sq km of land, and contains several of Indonesia's endemic and endangered plants and animals. The islands are home to 596 species of reef fish, 315 species of coral and even a few primates including the Togean macaque and Togean tarsier.
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The valley around Bariri village is littered with megalithic objects, including statues of human forms as well as massive kalamba (stone pots) and tutu'na (stone lids). The region is alternately called Behoa or Besoa. Trekking from here to Bada Valley (or vice versa) is popular.
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If you have wheels you can visit this impressive, powerful waterfall that drops in stages through rainforest, 15km west of Tentena. The falls are a spectacular place for a swim, and you can hike through the jungle and alongside a plunging river for a few kilometres – keep an eye out for monkeys and hornbills. Guides are available to take you on full day treks deeper into the rainforest.
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This exceptionally good museum has cultural artefacts from the area's indigenous peoples. Unfortunately only half the signs are in English, but there are extremely informative English-speaking attendants who will happily show you around.
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Two impressive waterfalls up the canyon northwest of Luwuk make a fine afternoon excursion. Piala requires ducking under a fence at the aqueduct which may not appeal to some, but the government is actively improving the muddy road to Laumarang, which they hope to develop into a tourism destination. It's a steep 3km hike from the edge of town.
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Tentena’s pretty covered 210m bridge marks where Danau Poso (Lake Poso) ends and Sungai Poso (Poso River) begins its journey to the coast. V-shaped eel traps north of the bridge snare the 2m monsters for which Tentena is famous. Live specimens are available for inspection and consumption in local warungs. Chartering a boat to explore the lake can be surprisingly difficult; the asking rate is 120,000Rp for two hours.
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The 42-sq-km Tanjung Api (Fire Cape) is home to anoa (pygmy buffalo), babi rusa (wild deer-like pigs), crocodiles, snakes and maleo birds, but most people come to see the burning coral cliff fuelled by a leak of natural gas. A visit to the park is more interesting at dusk. To get here you need to charter a boat 24km east around the rocky peninsula from Ampana.
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Fascinating freaks of evolution, the jellyfish that have long floated in this lake without predators have gradually lost their ability to sting, making for a truly surreal swimming experience.