Sonaf Baun

House in Baun

In a former medical clinic from the 1920s, you'll find Robert 'Robbi' Koroh, the 20th Amarai raja with manicured white hair, whose father played a leading part in regaining Indonesian independence from the Dutch. Present him with betel nut and he'll offer you kopi (coffee) and biscuits. Larger groups can call ahead to organise weaving demonstrations that include a traditional Natoni welcome ceremony, dancing, ikat weaving and paper-making demonstrations. Ask him about the intellectual property rights of Amarasi ikat motifs.

Robbi doesn't speak English but is a wealth of information, so you'll need a guide to translate if you want to do more than look around. Ask to see his fossil collection.