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South Goa

South Goa is the more serene half of the state, and for many travelers that’s the attraction. There are fewer activities and not as many bars, clubs or restaurants, but overall the beaches of the south are cleaner and not as crowded as those in the north.

Bordered to the north by the wide Zuari River and to the south by the neighboring state of Karnataka, South Goa’s coast is a series of resorts that range from the five-star hotel strips of Cavelossim and the village feel of Benaulim, to the backpacker-friendly beach-hut bliss of Palolem, Patnem and Agonda.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout South Goa.

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Church of the Holy Spirit
Margao’s whitewashed main church (1675) remains in use as a parish church and is finely decorated inside. The impressive reredos (ornamental screen) is dedicated to the Virgin Mary, rising from ground level to the high ceiling, made more distinguished by the gilded and carved archway that stands in front of it. The church doors are usually unlocked throughout the day, and access is via the side entrance on the northern side. An earlier church was first built in 1565, on the site of an important Hindu temple. Before demolition started on the temple, local Hindus managed to rescue the statue of the god Damodara, to whom the building was dedicated. It was secretly moved to a new site in the village of Zambaulim, around 30km southeast, where there is still a large temple today. The original church was burned to the ground by Muslim raiders the same year it was built. It was soon replaced and a seminary was established, but both were subsequently destroyed, again by Muslim forces, after which the seminary was moved to Rachol, to the northeast.
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Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary
About 9km southeast of Palolem, and a good day trip, is the beautiful, remote-feeling Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary, Goa’s second-largest sanctuary and easily its most accessible if you have your own transport. Don’t expect to bump into its more exotic residents (including gaurs, sambars, leopards and spotted deer), but frogs, snakes, monkeys, insects and blazingly plumed birds are in no short supply. Trails are hikable; set off early morning for the best sighting prospects from one of the two forest watchtowers, 7km and 12km from the park entrance. If you’re serious about spotting wildlife, it might be worth staying a night in one of the forest department cottages, right behind the reception at the park entrance. They’re no frills but clean, and meals can be arranged. From here you can make a start before the park even opens.
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Three Kings Chapel
It's the hilltop views, rather than the plain little chapel itself, that should entice you to take the steep road east off the coastal road up to Three Kings Chapel. On clear days, you’ll have a gorgeous, camera-friendly view south across thick palm groves, paddy fields, beaches and the Arabian Sea. Local legend has it that the church (also called Church of Our Lady of Remedios) is haunted by the ghosts of three Portuguese kings, one of whom plotted to poison the others but died himself in the process. Villagers supposedly buried the three in the church and since then haunted happenings have been reported. To get here, follow the road for 4km north from Cansaulim and take the right fork uphill at Cuelim.
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Butterfly Beach
Hire a local boatman from Palolem Beach to ferry you up to Butterfly Beach and back (₹2000 for the boat), relishing the views of untouched coastline along the way. The beach can also be reached by road towards Agonda and a walk from the car park.
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Betalbatim Beach
Betalbatim’s sands, just to the north of Colva, are a good example of what difference a few hundred metres can make, as calm, quiet and pastoral as Colva’s are touristed and traffic-clogged. Betalbatim itself consists of several different smaller strips of beach – try Lovers’ Beach, which is suitably lovely and deserted enough for romance. To get to Lovers’ Beach, follow the signs from the main coastal road, passing a less lovely rash of timeshare holiday-apartment buildings on the way.
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Municipal Library
On the west side of the canary-yellow Secretariat Building, you’ll find respite from the sun in the prim Municipal Library, which houses some good books about Goa. Don’t miss the library’s newspaper reading room, in which you’re required to collect your newspaper at the counter and then sit in the seat designated only for readers of that particular paper – it’s popular enough that it’s often full.
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Majorda Beach
Approached through pleasant, leafy Majorda village, Majorda Beach is a smarter, more organised option than neighbouring Utorda, with half a dozen Russian-dominated beach shacks, all serving up the standard beach menu. To get here, take the left-hand curve of the beach approach; the right-hand curve takes you down to Majorda Beach Resort.
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Bogmalo Beach
Bogmalo's curving, palm-fringed beach is less than 500m long, from the Bogmalo Beach Resort to the creek at the northwestern end. It doesn't have seasonal beach shacks but does have a sprinkling of more permanent beachfront restaurants doubling as guesthouses. Water-sports operations usually set up in season.
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Naval Aviation Museum
The Naval Aviation Museum, at the naval base on the road above Bogmalo Beach, makes an interesting diversion if you’re interested in ships and planes. The museum offers a neat and interesting presentation of India’s naval history, including an outdoor exhibit of fighter aircraft and naval helicopters.