Goa

Slung along the banks of the broad Mandovi River, Panaji is an easygoing city with the delightful old Portuguese districts of Fontainhas and Sao Tomé the perfect setting for a lazy afternoon of wandering. Sip firewater feni with locals in a hole-in-the-wall bar, gamble the night away on a floating luxury casino, clamber up to the wedding-cake-white Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception or poke about in boutiques and book shops. You’ll probably find you’re not missing the beach one bit.

South Indian spices – black pepper, cloves, cardamom, tamarind – were a major attraction for the seafaring Portuguese and today a fun day trip away from the beach is to one of several commercial spice plantations orbiting around Ponda or down south at the Tanshikar Spice Farm. They can be a little touristy, especially on weekends, but the plantation tours are fascinating and aromatic. Most offer a delicious buffet thali lunch served up on a banana leaf, and sell spices and other plantation produce.

Whether you’re in the market for some serious souvenirs or simply looking for an injection of local life, Goa’s many markets are a must. The most famous is Anjuna's flea market, held every Wednesday in season since the 1970s. It's a curious blend of traders and stalls from all over India, backpackers, day trippers and the odd dreadlocked hippie, but it's not to be missed. For more local flavour, head to Mapusa for its mammoth Friday market day, where you’ll find fresh produce, spices and textiles.

Downward-dog the days away in lovely, laid-back Mandrem, where an early morning yoga class, followed by a refreshing swim, an afternoon on a sun lounge with a good book and perhaps an ayurvedic massage are perfect for your spiritual soul. This is one of Goa's most alluring beach strips and an ideal base for accessing Aswem and Morjim to the south and backpacker-friendly Arambol to the north – all with their own impressive beach huts and activities from surfing to paragliding.

The 17th-century Portuguese capital of Old Goa once rivalled Lisbon and London in size and importance and was widely known as the 'Rome of the East'. Today all that remains of the once-great city is a handful of amazingly well-preserved churches and cathedrals – but what a sight! The Basilica of Bom Jesus contains the grizzly 'incorrupt' body of St Francis Xavier, while Se Cathedral is the largest in Asia. Stop by for Mass on a Sunday morning, marvel at the intricately carved altars, and imagine religious life here four centuries ago.

A blissful crescent of golden sand, balmy seas, gently swaying palm trees, good food, beach huts galore and a colourful backpacker-oriented beach bar scene make Palolem a favourite with travellers from across the globe. Though some say it’s too crowded in season, there are few better all-round beaches in Goa for yoga, kayaking, swimming or just lazing in your beachfront hammock, and the quieter beaches of Patnem and Agonda are just a short ride away. Palolem's distance from the northern beaches keeps it off many travellers' radars.

Goa's forests and wildlife reserves offer plenty for nature lovers, though most large animals are elusive. Avid birdwatchers will enjoy Dr Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary, Bondla Wildlife Sanctuary or Goa's many other prime locations. Goa's most easily accessible wildlife watching is at Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary, about 9km southeast of Palolem, where you can stay overnight and rise early to spot various species of monkeys, deer and, if you're lucky, a leopard. Goa's rivers provide another highlight: spot dolphins playing offshore or mugger crocodiles basking in the estuaries.

Cruising Goa's back lanes and beach villages on two-wheels is practically de rigeur in Goa. For just a few dollars a day you can hire a moped or a thumping Royal Enfield motorbike at any of Goa’s beach resorts, and head out into the hinterland to experience a slower, pastoral pace of life in the countryside. Cruise out to villages such as Chandor and Quepem, protected forest areas such as Netravali and cross rivers on old flat-bottomed vehicle ferries to see how rural Goans really live.

The Konkan Railway, linking Mumbai with Mangalore and passing right through Goa, is one of India's great railway journeys. It may be quicker to fly, but the romance of the rails is still alive here. Today the rails cross rivers and valleys, with some 2000 bridges and more than 90 tunnels. Whether you're riding in a 2nd-class sleeper or fancy air-con carriage, on the 12-hour Konkan Kanya Express or nine-hour Jan Shatabdi Express, make sure you sit near the window to watch the best show in town roll past.

Goans love a good festival and the calendar here is packed with cultural events, religious feasts, street parades and music festivals. Among the biggest Catholic festivals are Panaji's Carnival, the Feast of St Francis Xavier in Old Goa and the Feast of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception in Panaji. Major Hindu festivals include Shantadurga in January and Diwali in October/November. India's biggest international film festival is held in Panaji in November. Christmas, New Year and Easter are all big celebrations, too.

Frothy Dudhsagar – the name translates as 'Sea of Milk' – is the second-highest waterfall in India (after Jog Falls in Karnataka) and is a great day-trip adventure. Located deep in the Western Ghats on Goa's central border with Karnataka, the 300m-high tiered waterfall can be reached from Colem by a bumpy 4WD ride through stunning jungle scenery. Take a dip in the soothing pool or climb the rocky path to the head of the falls for great views. Start early and book your jeep in advance.

Goa has long been a place for partying, from the Portuguese sailors to the hippie freaks of the 1960s to the modern-day trance clubs and techno scene. These days it seems the rest of India has discovered Goa's beachside charms and cheap booze so resorts, clubs and even neighbourhood bars are packed in the peak December to February season. Finding the right party is a matter of luck and talking to locals, travellers and taxi drivers. Head to Curlies in Anjuna, Hilltop in Vagator and almost anywhere in Morjim for a party fix.