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Great Plain

Like the outback for Australians or the Wild West for Americans, the Nagyalföld (Great Plain) – also known as the puszta – holds a romantic appeal for Hungarians. Many of these notions come as much from the collective imagination as they do from history, but there’s no arguing the spellbinding potential of big-sky country. The Hortobágy region is where the myth of the lonely pásztor (shepherd), the wayside csárda (inn) and Gypsy violinists – kept alive in literature and art – was born. The horse and herding show at Hortobágy National Park recreates this pastoral tradition, while Bugac is one of the best places in Hungary to learn about life on the plain. The Great Plain is also home to cities of graceful architecture and history. Szeged is a centre of art and culture, Kecskemét is full of art nouveau gems and Debrecen is the 'Calvinist Rome’.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Great Plain.

Farm
Máta Stud Farm
Staged it may be, but the 1½-hour puszta show at the 300-year-old Máta Stud Farm, 3km north of Hortobágy village, is a real slice of Hungary. You get to ride in a horse-drawn wagon train across the prairie, making stops at large thatched barns to peer into the pens of racka sheep, see great grey cattle grazing, witness semi-wild horses being herded and watch Hungarian csikósok (cowboys) perform tricks, including 'five-in-hand' galloping – standing balanced on the back of two horses, with three more reined in front.
Architecture
City Hall
The sandy-pink, stepped-roof city hall (1895) was designed by Ödön Lechner. With a mixture of art nouveau/Secessionist and folkloric elements, Lechner produced a uniquely Hungarian style. The exterior tilework is from the renowned Zsolnay porcelain factory in Pécs, and the carillon chimes works by Ferenc Erkel, Kodály, Mozart, Handel and Beethoven just after noon, 6pm and 8pm. The floral ceilings and frescoes of Hungarian heroes in the Ceremonial Hall (Díszterem) were painted by Bertalan Székely.
Museum
Museum of Hungarian Naive Artists
Arguably the city’s most interesting museum and one of the few of its kind in Europe, the Museum of Hungarian Naive Artists contains works with lots of folksy themes, but the warmth and craft of Rozália Albert Juhászné’s work, the druglike visions of Dezső Mokry-Mészáros and the bright and comical paintings of András Süli should hold your attention.
Library
Calvinist College
North of the Great Church stands the Calvinist College, built in 1816 on the site of a theological college dating back to the mid-16th century. Downstairs in two rooms there are exhibits on religious art and sacred objects (including an 18th-century chalice made from a coconut), and on the regimented school’s history. Upstairs via a fabulous painted staircase is the 600,000-volume pillared library and the delightful oratory, where the breakaway National Assembly met in 1849.
Synagogue
New Synagogue
The recently renovated art nouveau New Synagogue, designed by Lipót Baumhorn in 1903, is the most beautiful Jewish house of worship in Hungary, if not the world. It is still in use, though the community has dwindled from 8000 before WWII to about 500 people today. Dominating the enormous blue-and-gold interior is the cupola, decorated with stars and flowers (representing infinity and faith) and appearing to float heavenward.
Architecture
Ornamental Palace
Dating from 1902, the masterful art nouveau Ornamental Palace features multicoloured majolica tiles decorating its 'waving' walls. The palace contains the Cifrapalota Exhibition Space, which has a large and important collection of 19th- and 20th-century Hungarian art. But visit mainly to view the aptly named Decorative Hall (Díszterem) and its amazing stucco peacock, bizarre Secessionist windows and more colourful tiles.
Church
Great Church
Built in 1822, the iconic Great Church accommodates 3000 people and is Hungary’s largest Protestant house of worship. The nave is rather austere apart from the magnificent organ; climb the 210 steps to the top of the west clock tower for grand views over the city and the 4.6-tonne Rákóczi Bell. It was in the Great Church that Lajos Kossuth read the Declaration of Independence from Austria on 14 April 1849. There are several exhibition spaces inside the church.
Wildlife Reserve
Bird Park & Clinic
Get up close with ailing feathered friends as they convalesce at the Bird Park & Clinic. Walk through the ‘hospital’ section of this sanctuary (including an operating room), among ambling storks in the park and into an aviary with hawks. Fidgety kestrels stay behind one-way glass. Kids can learn about conservation from simple displays before they head for the playground.
Architecture
Reök Palace
The Reök Palace is a mind-blowing green-and-lilac art nouveau structure, built in 1907, that looks like a decoration at the bottom of an aquarium. It’s been polished up to regain its original lustre in recent years and now hosts regular photography and visual-arts exhibitions. There's also a lovely retro-style cafe here.