Great Plain

Hortobágy National Park lies 40km west of Debrecen. At its centre is the tiny village of Hortobágy, once celebrated for its sturdy cowboys, inns and Gypsy bands. You can see the staged recreation of all this, complete with traditionally costumed csikósok (cowboys) at a puszta horse show. But you’ll want to explore more of the 810-sq-km national park and wildlife preserve – home to hundreds of birds, as well as plant species that are usually found only by the sea. Unesco added the park to its World Heritage list in 1999.

Lying halfway between the Danube and the Tisza Rivers in the heart of the southern Great Plain, Kecskemét is a city ringed with vineyards and orchards that don’t seem to stop at the limits of this 'garden city'. Indeed, Kecskemét’s agricultural wealth was used wisely and today it boasts some of the finest architecture of any small city in Hungary. Along with colourful art nouveau and Secessionist buildings, its museums and the region’s excellent barackpálinka (apricot brandy) are also draws. And Kiskunság National Park, the puszta of this part of the plain, is right at the back door. Day-trip opportunities include hiking in the sandy, juniper-covered hills, a horse show at Bugac or a visit to one of the region’s many horse farms.

See Szeged from a different vantage point altogether by taking a boat cruise departing down from Roosevelt tér just next to the Inner Town Bridge. The excursion lasts an hour and takes you northward to where the Maros flows into the Tisza and then southward past the old town.

The highlight of a trip to the Kiskunság National Park is the chance to see the puszta cowboy show at Bugac. In addition to making noble Nonius steeds perform tricks that most dogs would be disinclined to do, the csikósok (cowboys) crack their whips and race one another bareback.

Built in 1822, the iconic Great Church accommodates 3000 people and is Hungary’s largest Protestant house of worship. The nave is rather austere apart from the magnificent organ; climb the 210 steps to the top of the west clock tower for grand views over the city and the 4.6-tonne Rákóczi Bell. It was in the Great Church that Lajos Kossuth read the Declaration of Independence from Austria on 14 April 1849. There are several exhibition spaces inside the church.