Getty Images/Flickr RM

Heidelberg

Surrounded by forest, Germany’s oldest and most famous university town is renowned for its baroque Altstadt, beautiful riverside setting and evocative half-ruined hilltop castle, which draw 11.9 million visitors a year. They follow in the footsteps of the late 18th- and early 19th-century romantics, most notably the poet Goethe and Britain’s William Turner, who was inspired by Heidelberg to paint some of his greatest landscapes.

In 1878, Mark Twain began his European travels with a three-month stay in Heidelberg, recounting his observations in A Tramp Abroad (1880). Heidelberg's rich literary history, along with its thriving contemporary scene, saw it named a Unesco City of Literature in 2014.

Heidelberg’s Altstadt has a red-roofed townscape of remarkable architectural unity. After having been all but destroyed by French troops under Louis XIV (1690s), it was rebuilt during the 18th century. Unlike many German cities, it emerged from WWII almost unscathed.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Heidelberg.

Castle
Schloss Heidelberg
Towering over the Altstadt, Heidelberg’s ruined Renaissance castle cuts a romantic figure, especially across the Neckar River when illuminated at night. Along with fabulous views, attractions include the Deutsches Apotheken-Museum. The castle is reached either via a steep, cobbled trail in about 10 minutes or by taking the Bergbahn (cogwheel train) from Kornmarkt station. The only way to see the less-than-scintillating interior is by tour. After 6pm you can stroll the grounds for free.
University
Ruprecht-Karls-Universität
Established in 1386 by Count Palatinate Ruprecht I, Germany’s oldest and most prestigious university comprises 12 faculties with 30,000 German and international students, and has an esteemed alumni that includes a roll-call of Nobel Laureates. The most historic facilities are around Universitätsplatz, dominated by the Alte Universität (1712–28; on the south side) and the Neue Universität (1931; on the north side), the ‘old’ and ‘new’ university buildings respectively. Nearby stands the Löwenbrunnen (Lions Fountain).
Museum
Kurpfälzisches Museum
The city-run Palatinate Museum chronicles Heidelberg’s eventful past, particularly the Roman period – exhibits include original wood beams from a 3rd-century bridge. To learn about really ancient history, check out the replica of the 600,000-year-old jawbone of Homo heidelbergensis (Heidelberg Man), unearthed some 18km southeast in 1907 (the original is stored at the university’s palaeontology institute). Most of the museum's late 15th- to 20th-century paintings and sculptures are by artists from or associated with the region.
Museum
Universitätsmuseum
The three-room University Museum, inside the Alte Universität building of Ruprecht-Karls-Universität, has paintings, portraits, documents and photos from the university’s mostly illustrious history. Only the signs on the Third Reich period are in English, but the ticket price includes an English audioguide. Tickets also include admission to the adjacent Alte Aula, a neo-Renaissance hall whose rich decoration dates from 1886, and the Studentenkarzer.
Church
Heiliggeistkirche
For bird’s-eye views, climb the 208 stairs to the top of the tower of Heidelberg's famous church, constructed between 1398 and 1441. It was shared by Catholics and Protestants from 1706 until 1936 (it's now Protestant). Designed in 1984 by Johannes Schreiter, its predominantly red stained-glass window features the equation E = mc² followed by the date 06/08/1945 (the bombing of Hiroshima). The church hosts regular concerts (adult/child from €10/6) and half-hour organ recitals (€4/2); check the website for schedules.
Trail
Philosophenweg
Winding past monuments, towers, ruins, a beer garden, and an enormous Thingstätte (amphitheatre) built by the Nazis in 1935, the 2.5km-long Philosophers’ Walk has captivating views of Heidelberg's Schloss, especially at sunset when the city is bathed in a reddish glow. Access is easiest via the steep Schlangenweg from Alte Brücke. Don't attempt to drive up as the road is narrow and there's nowhere to turn around at the top.
Bridge
Alte Brücke
Heidelberg's 200m-long ‘old bridge’, built in 1786, connects the Altstadt with the river’s right bank and the Schlangenweg (Snake Path), whose switchbacks lead to the Philosophenweg. Next to the tower gate on the Altstadt side of the bridge, look for the brass sculpture of a monkey holding a mirror. It's the 1979 replacement of the original 17th-century sculpture.
Historic Site
Studentenkarzer
From 1823 to 1914, students convicted of misdeeds such as public inebriation, loud nocturnal singing, freeing the local pigs or duelling were sent to this student jail for at least 24 hours. Judging by the inventive wall graffiti, some found their stay highly amusing. Delinquents were let out to attend lectures or take exams. In certain circles, a stint in the Karzer was considered a rite of passage.
Park
Botanischer Garten der Universität
Established in 1593 as a medicinal garden, the University Botanical Garden – part of the university’s right-bank Neuenheimer Feld campus, 2.5km northwest of Bismarckplatz – now has over 14,000 plant species. Orchids, bromeliads, ferns and Madagascan succulents thrive in the hothouses; alpine, bog and heath are among the outdoor environments, along with a vineyard.