Lottie Davies
Sizzling shoreline hogs the headlines here, and the coast is undeniably magnetic, but there’s so much more to Var than super-yachts and overpriced bouillabaisse. A string of stunning islands, magnificent secluded monasteries, and uplands dotted with memorable villages make this département one of the most varied and enticing in Provence.
By all means, spend time on the area's many capes, people-watching on a terrace and sipping a cappuccino alongside a yacht-lined quay. Then head out to explore the region’s soul-stirring coastal paths, chichi beach clubs and vine-knitted capes. When you’re ready to move out of the limelight, you’ll be enveloped by nature in the Massif des Maures, where thick chestnut groves harbour small villages and unforgettable vistas. The main trio of islands in the Îles d'Hyères offers splendid, quiet coastal escapes. Inland, in the Haut-Var, meander through stone villages, each with its own character and history.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Var.
Monastery
The majestic 12th-century Monastère de la Verne sits on a forested ridge in the Massif des Maures, rising like an island of honeyed stone in a sea of green. The Carthusian institution was founded in 1170, possibly on the site of a temple to the goddess Laverna, protector of the bandits who hid in the Maures. It has been ravaged by fire and rebuilt several times over the years (much of the reconstruction dates from the 17th and 18th centuries).
Abbey
The simplest but most beautiful of 'The Sisters' (a trio of great Provençal Cistercian abbeys including Silvacane and Notre-Dame de Sénanque), Thoronet, built between 1160 and 1190, is a masterpiece of sacred architecture. It’s remarkable for its ultra-austere style: pure proportions, perfectly dressed stone and the subtle fall of light and shadow on unadorned, but never severe, geometry. It's so well preserved that it's easy to imagine the strict lives the monks (and particularly the lay brothers) led.
Gardens
Growing continuously since its conception in 1910, this stunning garden, with plants from all Mediterranean climates, is wonderful for a stroll or a themed nature walk. The dense flora cascades down the hillside to the sea, and while the flowers are at their best in April and May, it’s always worth a visit. In summer, at the estate’s petite gem of a beach, you can snorkel around underwater flora and fauna with an experienced guide (adult/child €28/20; bookings essential).
Church
A 1975 mosaic by Marc Chagall illuminates this 13th-century Romanesque chapel, 4.5km east of Les Arcs-sur-Argens. The church contains a crystal shrine holding the corpse of St Roseline (1263–1329), who was born at the château in Les Arcs and eventually became a Carthusian nun and mother superior here. She experienced visions and was said to be able to curtail demons. Other artists' work also graces the chapel, and concerts are held here in July and August.
Cave
A 40-minute forest trail leads from La Ste-Baume to the Grotte de Ste-Madeleine (950m), a mountain cave where Mary Magdalene is said to have spent the last years of her life. Its entrance offers a breathtaking panorama of Montagne Ste-Victoire, Mont Ventoux and the Alps. Dominican Friars have developed the grotto as a place of pilgrimage for over 700 years, building the Hostellerie de la Sainte-Baume in 1835 to welcome pilgrims.
Nature Reserve
The protected Vallon Sourn, where the swift waters of the Argens have cut a picturesque canyon from the soft rock, is a haven for for walking, cycling, canoeing, wild swimming and even rock climbing (although be warned – these rock faces are for serious climbers only). A scenic drive/ride from Correns, north on the D45 towards Châteauvert, will get you there.
Museum
Toulon has a long naval history, and remains an important commercial and military port. This historic portside building holds a very good, modern seafaring museum with exhibits, models and paintings illustrating the town's rich naval pedigree. Audioguides are included (and recommended) to get the most out of Toulon's most compelling attraction.
National Park
France’s first marine national park, dating to 1963, Port-Cros boasts exceptional marine fauna and flora, which makes it a snorkelling paradise. It comprises 17 sq km of land (mainly the Île de Port-Cros and Île de Port-Cros and Île de Poquerolles), and 29 sq km of surrounding marine environment.
Wildlife Reserve
This sanctuary protects one of France’s most endangered species, the Hermann tortoise (Testudo hermanni) today found only in the Massif des Maures and on Corsica. In summer, the best time to see the tortoises is in the morning and late afternoon. Watch them hatch from mid-May to the end of June; they hibernate from November to early March. Guided tours at 10.30am and 2pm are enlightening.