Lottie Davies

Var

Sizzling shoreline hogs the headlines here, and the coast is undeniably magnetic, but there’s so much more to Var than super-yachts and overpriced bouillabaisse. A string of stunning islands, magnificent secluded monasteries, and uplands dotted with memorable villages make this département one of the most varied and enticing in Provence.

By all means, spend time on the area's many capes, people-watching on a terrace and sipping a cappuccino alongside a yacht-lined quay. Then head out to explore the region’s soul-stirring coastal paths, chichi beach clubs and vine-knitted capes. When you’re ready to move out of the limelight, you’ll be enveloped by nature in the Massif des Maures, where thick chestnut groves harbour small villages and unforgettable vistas. The main trio of islands in the Îles d'Hyères offers splendid, quiet coastal escapes. Inland, in the Haut-Var, meander through stone villages, each with its own character and history.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Var.

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Abbaye de Thoronet
The simplest but most beautiful of 'The Sisters' (a trio of great Provençal Cistercian abbeys including Silvacane and Notre-Dame de Sénanque), Thoronet, built between 1160 and 1190, is a masterpiece of sacred architecture. It’s remarkable for its ultra-austere style: pure proportions, perfectly dressed stone and the subtle fall of light and shadow on unadorned, but never severe, geometry. It's so well preserved that it's easy to imagine the strict lives the monks (and particularly the lay brothers) led. There's so much to see, but highlights include the graceful cloisters, the deliberately unadorned church, the chapter house, lavabo and cellars. Definitely fork out for the enlightening €3 audioguide. It's 14km from Lorgues, concealed in beech woods.
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Chapelle Sainte-Roseline
A 1975 mosaic by Marc Chagall illuminates this 13th-century Romanesque chapel, 4.5km east of Les Arcs-sur-Argens. The church contains a crystal shrine holding the corpse of St Roseline (1263–1329), who was born at the château in Les Arcs and eventually became a Carthusian nun and mother superior here. She experienced visions and was said to be able to curtail demons. Other artists' work also graces the chapel, and concerts are held here in July and August.
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Vallon Sourn
The protected Vallon Sourn, where the swift waters of the Argens have cut a picturesque canyon from the soft rock, is a haven for for walking, cycling, canoeing, wild swimming and even rock climbing (although be warned – these rock faces are for serious climbers only). A scenic drive/ride from Correns, north on the D45 towards Châteauvert, will get you there.
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Musée de la Marine
Toulon has a long naval history, and remains an important commercial and military port. This historic portside building holds a very good, modern seafaring museum with exhibits, models and paintings illustrating the town's rich naval pedigree. Audioguides are included (and recommended) to get the most out of Toulon's most compelling attraction.
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Mont Faron
North of the city, Mont Faron (589m) towers over Toulon, and the views are, as you would expect, epic. Near the summit the Mémorial du Débarquement de Provence commemorates the Allied landings of Operation Dragoon, which took place along the coast here in August 1944. There are pleasant walks in the surrounding forest. To get here, catch a ride on the Téléphérique du Mont Faron cable car.
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Ancienne Abbaye de la Celle
Built over an earlier Christian structure (itself sitting on the foundations of a Roman villa), this 12th-century Benedictine Romanesque abbey has been exhaustively restored and is now well worth a visit. It once housed communities of both monks and nuns, until its dissolution during the Revolution, and has now been brought back to something like its original majesty, including beautiful gardens. An English-language pamphlet can be downloaded from the abbey's website.
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Moulin de Callas
Picturesque plantations spread out around this farm at the foot of Callas, where Andrew, Mathieu and Anthony Bérenguier are the fourth generation of an olive-growing dynasty stretching back to 1928. Admire the old water-wheel, learn about olive oil production and then purchase some in the on-site shop, which also carries a broad array of regional soaps, honeys and other products. In-depth tours and tastings can be pre-arranged (some are free, others very reasonable).
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Maison de la Truffe
Attached to Aups tourist office you'll find this shop selling the 'black diamond' of Aups in various forms (whole, in pastes and pastas). It's also home to the Truffle Adventure, an interactive and multisensory space exploring the precious fungus, its history and gastronomy. Truffle-hunting and -eating can be arranged.
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Tanning-Ernst Collection
Sharing the Maison Waldberg with the Seillans tourist office is this gallery of work by Dorothea Tanning and surrealist Max Ernst, who lived in Seillans from 1964 until his death in 1976. They bequeathed their collection of lithographs and other work to the city.