Var

The majestic 12th-century Monastère de la Verne sits on a forested ridge in the Massif des Maures, rising like an island of honeyed stone in a sea of green. The Carthusian institution was founded in 1170, possibly on the site of a temple to the goddess Laverna, protector of the bandits who hid in the Maures. It has been ravaged by fire and rebuilt several times over the years (much of the reconstruction dates from the 17th and 18th centuries).

The northern half of the Var département (north of the A8), known as the Northern or Upper Var, is vastly different from its coastal counterpart. Peaceful hilltop villages drowse beneath the midday sun, and are within easy reach of the wild Gorges du Verdon. Skip Draguignan, the hard-nosed main town where the French army maintains its largest military base, and head for the hills: lush vineyards, earthy black truffles and a bounty of gastronomic delights await.

Growing continuously since its conception in 1910, this stunning garden, with plants from all Mediterranean climates, is wonderful for a stroll or a themed nature walk. The dense flora cascades down the hillside to the sea, and while the flowers are at their best in April and May, it’s always worth a visit. In summer, at the estate’s petite gem of a beach, you can snorkel around underwater flora and fauna with an experienced guide (adult/child €28/20; bookings essential).

Despite the huge influx of day trippers (up to 6000 a day in July and August, joining similar numbers staying on the island), beautiful Porquerolles somehow remains unspoilt. Two-thirds of its sandy white beaches, pine woods, maquis and eucalyptus are protected by the Parc National de Port-Cros, and a wide variety of indigenous and tropical flora thrive, including Requien's larkspur, which grows nowhere else in the world. April and May are the best months to spot some of the 114 bird species.

Pottering along the island's rough unpaved trails on foot or by bicycle, breaking with a picnic lunch on the beach and a dip in crystal-clear turquoise water, is heavenly. The southern edge of the island is the most dramatic and uncluttered, but the inland vineyards and olive groves have a magic of their own, as do the gorgeous beaches of the northern coast.

Hidden in the forest, the leafy village of Collobrières is the place to taste chestnuts. Across the 11th-century bridge, the tourist office can help you participate in the October chestnut harvest, celebrated with the Fête de la Châtaigne, or join a guided forest walk.

Pretty as a picture, seaside Sanary-sur-Mer is a stroller’s dream. Watch the fishers unload their catch on the quay, or admire the traditional fishing boats from one of the seafront cafes. Wednesday’s colourful market draws crowds from miles around, and shops line interior streets. Novelist Aldous Huxley (1894–1963) called Sanary home in the early 1930s.