The Pyrenees

If the Pyrenees has a mustn’t-miss view, it’s the one from the Pic du Midi de Bigorre (2877m). Once accessible only to mountaineers, since 1878 the Pic du Midi has been home to an important observatory, and on a clear day the sky-top mountain views are out of this world. A cable car climbs to the summit from the nearby ski resort of La Mongie (1800m). Early morning and late evenings generally get the clearest skies and smallest crowds.

Fifty-two kilometres south of Lourdes on the D921 you’ll find three of the most breathtaking vistas in the Pyrenees: a trio of natural mountain amphitheatres, carved out by ancient glaciers and framed by sawtoothed, snow-dusted peaks – many of which top out at over 3000m.

Around 12km south of Lourdes, off the D821 near Argelès-Gazost, this fantastic animal park is home to many species that were once commonly sighted across the Pyrenees. The animals live on special ‘islands’ designed to mirror their natural habitat: marmots, chamoix and ibex inhabit rocky hills; beavers and giant otters dart along wooded waterways; and brown bears lord it over their own boulder-strewn mountain kingdom.

Most people know about the prehistoric artworks of the Dordogne, but far fewer realise that ancient painters left their mark in caves all across the Pyrenees. Halfway up a mountainside about 12km south of Foix, the Grotte de Niaux is the most impressive, with a fabulous gallery of bison, horses and ibex adorning a vast subterranean chamber called the Salon Noir. There’s also one tiny depiction of a weasel – the only cave painting of the animal yet found.

The most popular hike in Cauterets leads to the sparkling Lac de Gaube. A one-hour walk from Pont d'Espagne, the brilliantly blue mountain lake lies cradled by serrated peaks. Another trail (90 minutes' walk one way) winds up the Vallée de Marcadau to the high-altitude Refuge Wallon-Marcadau (1866m). During the winter, this is a popular spot for Nordic skiing and snowshoeing.

In many ways, Pau feels closer to a Riviera resort than a mountain town, with its grand villas, public parks and palm-lined promenades. The largest city in the Pyrenees was once a favourite wintering spot for expat British and Americans, and there’s still a touch of fin-de-siècle grandeur around its well-kept streets.

High road passes link the Vallée d’Ossau, the Vallée d’Aspe and the Vallée des Gaves (all of which have regularly featured as punishing mountain stages during the Tour de France). The altitude means that they’re often blocked by snow well into summer; signs indicate whether they’re ouvert (open) or fermé (closed).

Col d’Aubisque (1709m; open May to October) The D918 links Laruns in the Vallée d’Ossau with Argelès-Gazost in the Vallée des Gaves. An alternative that’s open year-round is the D35 between Louvie-Juzon and Nay.

Col de Marie-Blanque (1035m; open most of year) The shortest link between the Aspe and Ossau valleys is the D294, which corkscrews for 21km between Escot and Bielle.

Col du Pourtalet (1794m; open most of year) The main crossing into Spain generally stays open year-round except during exceptional snowfall.

Col du Tourmalet (2115m; open June to October) Between Barèges and La Mongie, this is the highest road pass in the Pyrenees. If you’re travelling east to the Pic du Midi (eg from Cauterets), the only alternative is a long detour north via Lourdes and Bagnères-de-Bigorre.

Deep beneath the village of Labouiche, 6km northwest of Foix, flows Europe’s longest navigable underground river. Discovered in 1908 by a local doctor, it’s been open to the public since 1938. Barge trips lasting 75 minutes run for about 1.5km along its underground course, with guides pulling the boats along by ropes attached to the ceiling, and walkways entering more caverns and eerie chambers.