On the western edge of Paris, vast Bois de Boulogne, the remnant of a royal hunting preserve, was once the province of kings. Now it welcomes one and all for verdant strolls and picnics, rowboat rides on ponds, an array of formal gardens and greenhouses, plus a famous art foundation, children's amusement park and the clay courts of Roland Garros. Indeed, something for everyone.
Playground for All
The 845-hectare Bois de Boulogne (Forest of Boulogne) was originally part of the forest of Vouvray and changed hands from kings, to monks and back again. It takes it name from Notre Dame de Boulogne la Petite, a 13th-century church. At times it was the home of castles and a convent, at other times a haunt of brigands and a site of robberies and battles. The British and Russian armies camped here after the defeat of Napoléon.
The park as you see it now owes its informal layout to Baron Haussmann, who, inspired by London’s Hyde Park, planted 400,000 trees here in the 19th century. Along with its myriad gardens and other sights, the park has 15km of cycle paths and 28km of bridle paths through 125 hectares of forested land.
Fondation Louis Vuitton
Designed by Frank Gehry, this striking Fondation Louis Vuitton in the northwestern corner of the park opened its doors in late 2014. It's next to the Jardin d'Acclimatation, and the soaring glass-panelled building hosts one or two temporary shows at a time, from pop art to Basquiat × Warhol. A shuttle runs between the Arc de Triomphe and the museum during opening hours.
Jardin d’Acclimatation
Inaugurated by Emperor Napoléon III as France’s first leisure park, the Jardin d’Acclimatation is a longtime family favourite offering a host of attractions including a petting zoo and trampolines. It was fully renovated in 2018 but it’s still delightfully old school, with rides like the Enchanted River (1928) still in service.
Parc de Bagatelle
Few Parisian parks are as romantic as this one, punctuated with waterfalls and a Chinese-style pagoda. The newly restored Château de Bagatelle, slated to open to the public for the first time in 2025, was built as the result of a 1775 wager between Marie Antoinette and her brother-in-law, the Count of Artois. Part of Paris’ Botanical Gardens, the park blooms with irises, peonies and the famous 10,000 roses in summer.
Villa Windsor
Home to Charles de Gaulle and his family after WWII, this Villa Windsor was where the Duke and Duchess of Windsor lived after Edward VIII abdicated the British throne. Fans of TV series The Crown will recognise the pad later owned by Mohamed Al-Fayed. It's due to open in 2025 after a restoration.
Pré Catelan
In this area of the Bois de Boulogne, the Jardin Shakespeare is lush with plants, flowers and trees mentioned in Shakespeare’s plays. Watch for summer performances in the attached open-air theater. The restaurant here, also called Le Pré Catelan, is a gastronomic temple, helmed by Frédéric Anton to the tune of three Michelin stars.
Lac Inférieur
On the eastern side of the park, rent an old-fashioned Lac Inférieur Boat Hire to explore Lac Inférieur, the largest of Bois de Boulogne's lakes – romance guaranteed.
Jardin des Serres d’Auteuil
It's worth the pilgrimage to the southeastern end of the Bois de Boulogne for this manicured Jardin des Serres d’Auteuil with impressive conservatories, which opened in 1898. Amidst the humidity, browse a luxuriant collection of rare tropical plants – you’ll even find an aviary and carp-filled pool in the palmarium. Complementing the historic edifices are six contemporary greenhouses, flanking the Simonne-Mathieu tennis court (part of the Stade Roland Garros).
