Château de Chaumont-sur-Loire

Bruno Mazzetti/Shutterstock

Chaumont Castle in Loire Valley France. Panoramic wide view to the entrance and the garden at sunrise with trees, grass under blue sky.

Set on a strategic bluff with sweeping views along the Loire, the Château de Chaumont-sur-Loire (domaine-chaumont.fr; adult/child €21/6, in winter €16/4) has turned itself into one of the most engaging and exciting of the Loire castles. The main structure has a medieval exterior (cylindrical towers, a sturdy drawbridge) and an interior courtyard that is very much of the Renaissance, but far more enthralling are the 60 world-class installations of striking, na­ture-themed contemporary art (including exceptional photography); and, from late April to early November, the Festival International des Jardins (International Garden Festival), for which 30 magnificent gardens are created each year by jury-selected teams led by visual artists, architects, set designers and landscape gardeners.

Exterior view of the Château de Chaumont-sur-Loire on a clear day in the Loire Valley, France.
Exterior view of the Château de Chaumont-sur-Loire on a clear day in the Loire Valley, France. AcropolypsePhotography/Shutterstock

A defensive château was built on this spot in the late 900s, but most of the present castle was constructed between 1468 and 1566. Following the death of Henri II in 1559, Catherine de Médicis (his widow) forced Di­ane de Poitiers (his mistress and her second cousin) to accept Chaumont in exchange for the grander surroundings of Chenonceau. Savvy Diane earned considerable sums from Chaumont’s vast landholdings but stayed here only occasionally.

In the second half of the 18th century, the château was owned by Jacques-Donatien Le Ray, a supporter of the American Revolution and an intimate of Benjamin Franklin’s (an exhibit dedicated to Franco-American friendship opened in 2024). In 1875, the château was purchased by the 17-year-old Princess de Broglie (pronounced "broy"), heiress to the Say sugar fortune

Out in the 32ha park, don’t miss the brick Écuries (stables), an outbuilding construct­ed in 1877 to house the Broglies’ horses in equine luxury. In addition to a fine collec­tion of 19th-century equestrian gear and horse-drawn carriages of surprisingly varied design, there are installations of striking contemporary art. The website of the château, owned by the région of Centre-Val de Loire, has details on special events (eg for Christmas) and temporary exhibitions.

During the garden festival – when the Prés du Goualoup perennial gardens are also open – you can easily spend the whole day here. The château's four places to eat include a family-friendly buffet.

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