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Lapland
Lapland casts a powerful spell: there's something lonely and intangible here that fills it with Arctic magic. The midnight sun, the Sámi peoples, the aurora borealis (Northern Lights) and roaming reindeer are all components of this – as is Santa Claus himself, who ‘officially’ resides here – along with the awesome latitudes: at Nuorgam, the northernmost point, you have passed Iceland and nearly all of Canada and Alaska.
Spanning 30% of Finland’s land area, Lapland is home to just 3% of its population. Its vast wilderness is ripe for exploring on foot, skis or sled. The sense of space, pure air and big skies are what's most memorable here, more so than the towns.
Lapland’s far north is known as Sápmi, home of the Sámi, whose main communities are around Inari, Utsjoki and Hetta. Rovaniemi, on the Arctic Circle, is the most popular gateway to the north.
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Top attractions
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Lapland.
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Siida
One of Finland's most absorbing museums, state-of-the-art Siida offers a comprehensive overview of the Sámi and their environment. The main exhibition hall consists of a fabulous nature exhibition around the edge, detailing northern Lapland’s ecology by season, with wonderful photos and information panels. The centre of the room has detailed information on the Sámi, from their former seminomadic existence to modern times. In an adjacent hall is a timeline framing Sámi prehistory and history alongside other world events. Other halls have excellent temporary exhibitions, and a theatrette shows pretty visuals of the aurora borealis and Inarijärvi a few times daily. There’s also a fine craft shop and a good lunch cafe. Outside, the original Siida museum is a complex of mostly original buildings, including farmhouses, storage huts and a courthouse, where miscreants scratched their names on the wooden walls while awaiting a likely flogging. The museum's excellent website has comprehensive information on the Inari and Skolt Sámi cultures, accessed via the ‘web exhibitions’ page.
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Arktikum
With its beautifully designed glass tunnel stretching out to the Ounasjoki, this is one of Finland’s finest museums. One half deals with Lapland, with information on Sámi culture and the history of Rovaniemi; the other offers a wide-ranging display on the Arctic, with superb static and interactive displays focusing on flora and fauna, as well as on the peoples of Arctic Europe, Asia and North America. Downstairs an audiovisual – basically a pretty slide show – plays on a constant loop. Also here are a research library and a handy cafe.
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Pilke Tiedekeskus
Downstairs in the Metsähallitus (Finnish Forest and Park Service) building next to the Arktikum, this is a highly entertaining exhibition on Finnish forestry with a sustainability focus. It has dozens of interactive displays that are great for kids of all ages, who can clamber up into a bird house, build a timber-framed dwelling, get behind the wheel of a forest harvester or play games about forest management. Multilingual touch screens provide interesting background information.
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Lumilinna
Few things conjure fairy-tale romance like a snow castle. First built in 1996 as a Unicef project, this is a Lapland winter highlight and a favoured destination for weddings, honeymoons, and general marvelling at the ethereal light and sumptuously decorated interior. The design changes every year but always includes a chapel, a snow hotel, an ice bar and a restaurant (lunch menus €26, dinner menus €51 to €58; by reservation 11am to 2pm and 7pm to 9.30pm).
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Sajos
The spectacular wood-and-glass Sámi cultural centre stands proud in the middle of town. It holds the Sámi parliament as well as a library and music archive, a restaurant, exhibitions and a craft shop. Guided tours start at noon.
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Kevo Strict Nature Reserve
Some of Finland's most breathtaking scenery is within the 712-sq-km Kevo Strict Nature Reserve along the splendid 40km gorge of the Kevojoki (off-limits from April to mid-June). The main trail is 63km long (four days one way) and runs through the canyon, from the Sulaoja parking area 11km east of Karigasniemi on the road westbound from Kaamanen, to Kenesjärvi, on the Kaamanen–Utsjoki road. Be aware that hikers cannot hunt, fish or collect plants or berries, and must stay on marked trails. The trek is rough with several fords – ask about water levels before heading off. The Guivi trail separates from the main trail and loops through fell scenery before rejoining the main trail further along: it’s a 77km journey. You can also walk a return trip from Sulaoja. Use the 1:100,000 Utsjoki Kevo outdoor map. Bring a tent if you plan to hike the canyon, as there's only one wilderness hut on the main route (there are another two on the Guivi leg). Camping is permitted within the reserve at 20 designated sites. Ruktajärvi wilderness hut is at the gorge route's southern end near where the Guivi trail branches off, and Njávgoaivi and Kuivi are on the Guivi loop. There’s also a simple turf hut between these two. There are cabins on the main road 500m south of the eastern trailhead. Catch the Karigasniemi-bound bus from Inari (€18.70, 1¼ hours, two daily) and ask the driver to drop you off at the clearly marked Sulaoja trailhead. From Kenesjärvi, buses run to Inari (€23.50, 1¾ hours, one daily) or Utsjoki/Nuorgam (€6.80, 45 minutes, two daily).
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Bears' Nest
At the edge of Myössäjärvi, 16km south of Inari, look out for the Karhunpesäkivi rest stop. From here, a 300m timber boardwalk (mainly comprising steps) leads through the forest to Finland's largest tafone (cave-like formation found in granular rock), the only one in the world known to have shifted from its original base during the last ice age. You can enter the hollow boulder; although you have to crawl to enter, the honeycomb-like structure is high enough to stand upright.
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Kultamuseo
In 1868 the remote area of Tankavaara on the Ivalojoki, 32km south of Saariselkä, experienced a gold rush, with a community of up to 500 panners seeking their fortune. The story is related in this museum, which also covers gold production around the world. A cubic metre of sand is on display, along with the sobering 2g of gold it normally contains here. In summer try your luck and pan for gold. There's an original smoke sauna and octagonal hut. You'll also see replica buildings from American goldfields; rockhounds will enjoy the gemstone and mineral exhibition. Nature trails lead out from the neighbouring nature centre. The atmospheric cafe Wanha Waskoolimies has Lappish dishes, a saloon, and rooms and cabins.
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Pielpajärven Kirkko
This erämaakirkko (wilderness church) is accessible by a marked walking track (7.5km one way) from the parking area at Siida. If you're driving, there’s another trailhead beyond here, from where it's 4.3km. In winter you’ll need snowshoes. The area has for centuries been an important marketplace for the Sámi; the first church was erected in 1646. The present church was built in 1760 and restored in the 1970s. Open the shutters to get the full benefit (close them before leaving).
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