Lapland

The remote village of Kilpisjärvi, the northernmost settlement in the ‘arm’ of Finland, sits on the doorstep of both Norway and Sweden. At 480m above sea level, this small border post, wedged between the lake of Kilpisjärvi and the magnificent surrounding fells, is also the highest village in Finland. The main reason to venture out here is for brilliant summer and ruska (autumn colour) trekking or spring cross-country skiing.

Kilpisjärvi consists of two small settlements 5km apart – the main (southern) centre has most services; the northern knot has the hiking centre and trailheads.

Attached to the Arktinen Rekikoirakeskus, this excellent set-up has a vast program of activities. In summer these include canoe and boat trips (€50, three hours), midnight-sun rafting trips (€45, 1½ hours), foraging tours (€50, four hours), and fishing (€80, five hours) on the salmon-packed Muonionjoki. In winter, try reindeer sledding (€140, five hours) and snowmobiling (€110, two hours).

Kemi is an important deep-water harbour and heavy-industry town. It's home to two of Finland’s blockbuster winter attractions – a snow castle and an ice-breaker cruise – while summer diversions include a gem museum and a wide waterfront where you'll find a handful of kid-friendly activities at Santa's Seaside Office.

At 285,550 hectares, Lemmenjoki (Sámi: Leammi) is Finland’s largest national park, covering a remote wilderness area between Inari and Norway. This is prime hiking territory, with desolate wilderness rivers, rough landscapes and the mystique of gold, as solitary prospectors slosh away with their pans in the middle of nowhere. Boat trips on the river allow more leisurely exploration of the park.

The launch pad is Njurgulahti, an Inari Sámi community by the river; it’s often simply referred to as Lemmenjoki. It’s 11km down a turn-off signposted 34km southwest of Inari on the Kittilä road.

With its beautifully designed glass tunnel stretching out to the Ounasjoki, this is one of Finland’s finest museums. One half deals with Lapland, with information on Sámi culture and the history of Rovaniemi; the other offers a wide-ranging display on the Arctic, with superb static and interactive displays focusing on flora and fauna, as well as on the peoples of Arctic Europe, Asia and North America. Downstairs an audiovisual – basically a pretty slide show – plays on a constant loop.

One of Finland's most absorbing museums, state-of-the-art Siida offers a comprehensive overview of the Sámi and their environment. The main exhibition hall consists of a fabulous nature exhibition around the edge, detailing northern Lapland’s ecology by season, with wonderful photos and information panels. The centre of the room has detailed information on the Sámi, from their former seminomadic existence to modern times.

Levi's ski resort has 43 downhill slopes, many lit, and 28 lifts. The vertical drop is 325m and the longest run is 2.5km. There are two snow parks with half-pipes and a superpipe for snowboarders, and several runs and free lifts for children. Equipment hire and lessons are available. Cross-country skiing is also superb here, with 230km of trails, some illuminated.

If you miss witnessing the aurora borealis, this 45-minute simulation in a purpose-built riverside tepee is the next best thing. Lean back on a reclining chair to watch images gathered over three decades projected on the ceiling while a local guide explains the science and folklore. You'll also hear radio signals as they hit the ionosphere. The centre is 11km south of Sodankylä.

The border village of Utsjoki (Sámi: Ohcejohka) is strung out along the main road that crosses the Tenojoki into Norway over a handsome bridge. It’s an important Sámi community. The river is the main attraction in these parts; head along its banks towards Nuorgam or Karigasniemi and you’ll find several picturesque spots with cabins catering to families or groups of friends going fishing.