Getty Images/Lonely Planet Images
Though it’s Fiji’s second-largest island, Vanua Levu (Big Island) is one of the tropics’ best-kept secrets. It’s another world from the bustle of Viti Levu and the more-touristed islands: many roads are little more than rutted dirt tracks, and Labasa, the island’s largest ‘city’, is a one-street strip of shops. To the south, Savusavu entices yachties, divers and dreamers looking for a tropical idyll. The rest of ‘Big Island’ is given over to sugarcane and copra plantations, hideaway villages, mountain passes streaming with waterfalls, endless swaths of forest and an ever-changing coastline forgotten by the world. Take it slow, keep a smile on your face and savour rural Fiji on its grandest scale.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Vanua Levu.
Historic Site
This site has a cryptic – and cannibalistic – history. At the entrance, there's a sacred monolith that villagers believe grew from the ground; behind is a cemetery and the area that was used during cannibalistic ceremonies, with a vatu ni bokola (head-chopping stone), another rock for the severed head and a bowl-like stone where the brain was placed for the chief. The site is found in Wasavula village (Vunimoli Rd) south of town; a taxi should be about $7.
Temple
The sacred 3m-high Cobra Rock is housed inside the vibrant Naag Mandir Temple. It's draped with flower-and-tinsel garlands, and offerings are placed at its base; locals believe the rock can cure the sick and the infertile. The rock also – apparently – grows; locals say the roof has had to be raised four times since the 1950s. Remove your shoes outside the beautifully tiled temple and try to make it there on a Sunday, when the temple is heaving.
Village
Deep in the mountains north of Savusavu, reachable by 4WD, lie the ruins of Nukubolu, an ancient Fijian village whose stone foundations, terraces and thermal pools are in surprisingly good condition. The setting is lovely: a volcanic crater with steaming hot springs in the background.
Nature Reserve
Nestled in the mountains north of Savusavu, this 120-ha reserve is home to thousands of birds, flowers, trees and plants, some of which are used in local traditional medicines. There's a pleasant 30-minute walk dense greenery down to a waterfall (but watch out for its death-trap-slippery rocks).
Island
This house-sized island floats on a pond during high winds or, if you believe local lore, when a priest chants at it. The real reason to come here is to say you have; if you're the type who loves a challenge, you'll like it too as it's very remote and you'll have to find a local willing to slog through the mud with you. The island is found near Nakelikoso Village, about 50km northeast of Labasa.
Hot Springs
Those vents of steam you see along the water’s edge are evidence of the volcanic activity that simmers below Savusavu's surface. The main springs are just down from the aptly named Hot Springs Hotel. They are literally boiling: locals come to cook food in them. You’ll scald yourself if you touch them. The Savusavu Medical Centre next door has three therapeutic spa baths (40°C), and welcomes visitors. No appointment necessary.
Gardens
Take a guided tour through these gorgeous gardens, home to 300 types of palms and countless tropical flowers and fruit trees. Birds and butterflies love it here just as much as visitors, who are rewarded with stunning views over Savusavu Bay at the end of the timber boardwalk. It's about 5km out of town.
Wildlife Reserve
Home to the rare silktail bird, found only on this peninsula and on Taveuni. The silktail has sadly made it onto the world’s endangered-species list, with logging being its major threat. The average bird is about 8cm high and is black with a white patch on its tail.
Beach
From Naag Mandir Temple, head down through dense coconut trees and past the lounging cows to Korovatu Beach. It's the closest stretch of sand to Labasa and makes a decent side trip if you’re in the area for a few days.
2:15